Bader grinding a full tang surface totally flat

[neil1967]

Okay, I'm having a problem. I am trying to use the flat platten on a Bader grinder to flatten the s##es of full tang so I can attach the handle slabs but I can't seem to get it to go totally flat. There is a little bow in it where it is higher in the center (holding the tang vertical against the platten). I have checked the platten itself and it is flat, and I'm using spanking new belts, but I keep having this problem. Has anyone run across this? And if so, is there a solution?

Thanks!

Neil

[Ray Rogers]

Most steel isn't truly flat as it comes to us and that may be what you're seeing. Or maybe you're trying to say that in the process of attempting to flatten your tang you seem to be developing a high spot in the m##dle of the tang. If that's what you mean, the metal may be getting too hot as you grind it and it's warping, especially if it's thin material. Surely that high spot isn't showing up on both s##es of the tang, is it? If it is, then check the thickness of the tang down it's whole length - you may be putting too much pressure on the butt end of the tang and grinding it thinner than the m##dle.

From what I understand, the tang is still straight and of even thickness but the center is just a little thicker. If that's the case, more grinding (careful of the heat) will eventually get r## of it. Tapering the tang would also do the job.

If neither of those ways seems like a fix for your situation, and if the high spot is very slight, then using a liner like the popular red fiber material and some epoxy will take care of it. Not how we'd like it to be but still as sol## a handle as you would ever need.

If all of this is way off base, then tell us what metal you are using and the size of the tang area, the grit of your belts, and anything else that could help us find the problem...

[Jamey Saunders]

On my Square Wheel, the rollers at the top and bottom of the platen are slightly forward of the face of the platen, which caused the belt to grind a little more on the top and bottom when I was flat grinding. I added a piece of metal to the face of the platen (with the top and bottom of th metal rounded off). This way, the belt r##es straight from the top of the platen to the bottom. No uneven grinding.

Maybe try a search for "sacrificial platen". You may find something there.

[simmonsk]

Hi,
Not being really good with a grinder either I took the cowards way out.
I got a 9" disk and attached it to a 1 hp motor. I use this disk sander to flatten both my tangs and ins##e edge of handle material. Flat fits flat.
K & G , Frink, Koval etc all sell a nice disk. Tru-Grit sells a really nice complete outfit that has a tilting table for doing dove-tailed bolsters as well. I eventually mounted my motor on one of them.
Why 9"? Because a regular sheet of sandpaper cuts to fit it with small waste strips just right for my homemade block sander. I confess the dimensions of the block sander came after I realized I had a steady source of strips. I seem to use mostly 120 grit Klingspore. Just use repositionable spray adhesive from NAPA to hold the paper in place. One can seems to last about 3 years.
Enjoy, Ken

[neil1967]

Thanks everyone for the info. I'll try some of the techniques suggested and let you know!

Neil

[caveman]

not to change the subject too much, but Jamey, the wheels on your Wilton are mounted on concentric cams & can be adjusted behind the plane of your flat platen......

[Jamey Saunders]

Well, now, there's something I had absolutely no ##ea about. Thanks!