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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need. |
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#1
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dymondwood finish
Well, I am putting together a knife with dymondwood. Heard a lot of negative things about it but also some ok things. It has a shiny finish on it but I intend to sand it down. Will it look ok and then after I sand, what do I put on for a finish?
Someone tell me that it does not look "trashy" as was mentioned on one thread. Thanks, Ellie |
#2
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Ellie
DYMONDWOOD i have used its nice stuff just sand to shape and buff it will bring the shine back.i wood sand it with fine sand papper then buff.its good for all seasons of the year. samf NEVER LEAVE HOME WITH OUT YOUR KNIFE |
#3
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Ellie-
Like any other handle material, it's all subjective. I for one am not a fan of dymondwood...I think it looks kinda cheesy (sorry), but that's only one guys opinion. Any one of the many stabilized woods will be just as easy to work, requiring no finish and appear far more natural when done...use same instructions as previously given for your last knife, as regards to sanding and finishing... Many of the exotic woods require no finish of any kind, such as Desert Ironwood or cocobolo... At any rate I'm sure the dymondwood will prove an interesting experience...you'll see what I mean when you are shaping the handle and the pattern begins to evolve...try and maintain symmetry with the pattern, it'll look much better. Dennis Yeah baby! |
#4
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There are many different looks for Dymondwood and some are definitely cheesy. Those that mix red/ble/green/silver etc often end up looking very 'cheap'.
However, every cloud has a silver lining and so does my opinion of Dymondwood. I find that the solid Walnut and Chestnut pieces actually look very nice on a handle. As Dennis said, they don't look as nice as a piece of expensive burl but they look very nice considering a block of Dymondwood costs about 10% of the price of a piece of stabilized burl. In addition to the very low price, Dymondwood is very easy to shape and to finish and it is extremely durable.... |
#5
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I guess when I think of Dymondwood, it's the "cheesy" stuff that comes to mind...I was unaware of the Walnut and Chestnut versions (Ray has far, far more experience than me in all aspects of knifemaking)
For what it's worth, I've purchased several sets of stabilized burls from ironwoodbydon. Every month or so, he'll put up a fresh batch of scales for sale..and it's not just ironwood. My most recent purchase included a gorgeous set of burled maple scales from the "miscellaneous" section...as I recall they were around $9 for the set and I got two folder handles out of the set. Sanded them up through 2000 grit and a light buff and they turned out exquisite! (I'll try and find a photo). Here's a pic from the recent Chesapeake Knife Show. The knife in the back, to the left, has scales made from that set of stabilized maple...spacer is gaboon ebony...both polished up like glass! For the knife just in front of that one, I used desert ironwood (also from ironwoodbydon...a bit more expensive than the maple...price varies...typically around $20 for grade A folder-size scales) Here's another example of stabilized burled maple from Don. I made a new set of scales for a customer's William/Henry (from their new, entry-level, factory-made in Japan series...this one came with really unattractive, mismatched bocote scales). I didn't buff this one to as much of a shine as the one in the previous photo, at the customer's request (once again, I used a nice black piece of Gaboon Ebony for the spacer...I bought an 8" piece from a local wood dealer for $2.00!! Using it for spacers, it'll probably last for a couple of years...) I have a very nice collection of wood scales just waiting to be made into handles, many came from Don and I've rarely been disappointed... Dennis Yeah Baby! Last edited by Osprey Guy; 12-22-2002 at 12:38 PM. |
#6
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Some very nice looking scales you have there, Dennis! Sounds like you're getting very good prices on your wood too.
I use a lot of stabilized burl blocks, mostly from K&G and Sheffield's. These are stabilized with acrylic and generally cost $25 to $35 per block - and worth every penny. But, not everyone wants to pay the higher price for these woods and for those customers I offer the Dymondwood at around $3 - $5 for the same sized block. Both types of wood finish easily and are very durable. If you stay with the Walnut or Chestnut blocks, the Dymondwood can also be very presentable .... |
#7
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$3.00 for a block is one heck of a good price!!!
Considering how many sets of scales that could yield (for folders especially), you're sure going to get your moneysworth out of that! Any chance of you posting some pics Ray? Dennis Yeah Baby! |
#8
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I never have used Dymondwood for folder scales. Most of my folders have synthetic scales. When I need wood scales there are plenty of pieces left over from the high priced blocks that can be used.
Pretty much all the pictures I have are already posted on my website. Only a few show Dymondwood scales and most of those are in the kitchen knife section but it might be worth a look if you have the time. You'll see some of the 'trashy' Dymondwood and some of the single color pieces that are generally pretty good. Learn from other people's mistakes and you won't have to waste time making those same mistakes yourself.. Last edited by Ray Rogers; 12-22-2002 at 03:21 PM. |
#9
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Beautiful knives, Dennis. The dymondwood I have is a cocobolo / cinnamon color that is really pretty nice. I won't use it often, I promise, but thought in addition to the oak that I am using, it would be ok for the second knife. It is much easier to use than the oak that I got. I have some ironwood and walnut to use sometime and am waiting for that thing called experience so I don't mess them up!!
Now, I put too much glue and it is not coming off with acetone, any suggestions? I did a search but couldn't find how to take it off easily. Ellie |
#10
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Its all about the colours.
Someone told me that they use the really gaudy bright colours so that its impossible to lose their knife in the woods. I HATE those multicoloured varieties - too much drugged, bad-tripping hippie migraine-inducing colours. The ones I like are the so-called single coloured varieties - Chestnut, Oak, Cocobolo, Winewood and Burgundy Rosewood, the redder versions look like a close relative of the rosewood, cocobolo woods.
I thought I'd run this idea - what are the advantages of Dymondwood ? 1) waterproof when finished, fully stable and comes dead flat to begin with, 2) relatively lightweight - its about 2/3 the weight of comparable Micarta, 3) takes a full polish to attract "those" customers. 4) Most places it is 1/2 the price of Micarta. There's no getting around that its a durable material, though somewhat less chip resistant than say, canvas Micarta. I use a lot of the "natural" colours on working grade hunting and utility knives- they hold up amazingly well and I get to charge a reduced cost - passing the savings on. My favourite are the Cocobolo, Winewood types and the black / ebony. There are also other forms of these which are better known as "DENSIFIED WOODS" such as Staminawood and Pakkawood where available. Finishing should be taken to a full polish, anything less looks somwewhat dirty - thats the drawback with this material. I recommend finishing the same way as on linen Micarta - sanding up to at least 1000 or 1200 grit, then buffing with a rouge. Hope this helps. I wouldn't touch the bright colours with a 10foot pole. Think I've made that clear already. Cheers. __________________ JASON CUTTER BLADEART Jason Cutter @ Dr Kwong Yeang Knifemaker, Australia (Matthew 10.16) |
#11
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Ellie, this dymondwood handle is "cocobolo" flavor.....these guys are right, the solid colors are much nicer than the multi-colored pieces, try winewood or black, which finishes out with silver "layers".....also, you don't have to work your butt off to get a great finish, this handle was sanded to only 320 with a palm sander & buffed with white rouge.....enjoy...
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#12
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NICEEEEE....
You're a showoff ! But that knife is good reason to show off...
Taken only to 320 ? I must try that, not sure why I stuck to the 1200grit hand rubbing. Yes, Dymondwood is actually easier to get a nice finish on than Micarta or the harder materials. __________________ JASON CUTTER BLADEART Jason Cutter @ Dr Kwong Yeang Knifemaker, Australia (Matthew 10.16) |
#13
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Ahhhhh, thanks guys... since this is a gift, I can relax now and go out to the shop and finish it as prescribed. Beautiful pictures which really help me too.
Two days before Christmas...... Thanks to all of you who helped me do these for gifts this year. Ellie |
#14
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Don't seal the dymondwood,just sand and buff!!!!!,It is great stuff,some like it,some don't ,I like the camo colors,and the solids,The younger peeps like all the colors. Beadblasts well also,Frank Vaught made alot of knives using dymondwood,the walnut color,then blasts em,they look great. Good choice,good luck,hope it works out well.
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