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  #1  
Old 06-09-2017, 02:27 PM
WNC Goater WNC Goater is offline
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And speaking of forging blades...

..any of you smiths tried wet forging? I've been looking into it a bit but not finding a lot of information. Apparently very helpful to control scale and seems a number of people only do it during the last few heats. Some wet forge the whole blade.

Any of you guys do this?


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Old 06-13-2017, 06:48 PM
jimmontg jimmontg is offline
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I guess not Goater.
I've never heard of it outside of a foundry spraying high pressure water on orange hot billets being rolled into bars. It keeps the scale off.


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Old 06-13-2017, 08:08 PM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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I did it once just to try it. Like most things we do, making it effective would take some practice. You have to do it so the blade hits the water covered anvil a micro-second ahead of the hammer. The water, of course, causes the blade to cool a good bit faster than it otherwise would have AND it makes for a wet anvil although I don't know if that means more maintenance on the anvil or not. I was doing damascus billets when I tried it. My normal cleaning process was a twisted wire cup brush on a small angle grinder. Water might have been faster if you could master the technique but the wire brush was more thorough and less messy IMO ....


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Old 06-14-2017, 06:10 AM
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Crex Crex is offline
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Done it a bit and found it a bit messy. Thing is I like to keep my anvil face hot so forging goes faster, and I don't like to have to take the extra time and handle swapping it requires to keep the "dance steps" in sync.
I found that just lowering your forge heat a little as you get closer to finish just above the bottom range of forgable heat will greatly reduce the amount and thickness of scale on the blade (provided you keep your anvil hot). Good wire brushing after a vinegar soak will remove pretty much all the remaining fine scale.
Good rule of thumb is to look at the scale flakes around and on you anvil. If they are around 1/8" or bigger, you are forging at way to high a temperature. That's ok when reducing stock to knife like dimensions. When things start looking like a knife blade and you are working on finishing in your bevels,distal tapers and flats the scale should look like dust and there should be very little.


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