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  #106  
Old 06-16-2017, 08:18 PM
PoolQs PoolQs is offline
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Thanks to Ray, I completed my first hollow grind for the KITH. I am VERY happy with the way this turned
out. Didn't think I could keep a straight line, but I got it. Thanks Ray !! Great Video (a must have)



Since I was doing first time everything, decided to throw in a double taper as well:



Hey Ray, must of missed the part on the video on how to modify a 1x30 and 4x36 to complete
this. Oh well, mods made
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  #107  
Old 06-16-2017, 08:25 PM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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Nice job there, can't wait to see the finished product!

As for the mods, the video did show how to make a couple of minor improvements to some tools but I would have had to have made an additional DVD to show all the torturous machinations required to turn a 1x30 into an approximation of a real grinder ...


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  #108  
Old 06-17-2017, 05:57 PM
jimmontg jimmontg is offline
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It looks great for any kind of grinder.

Nice tapered tang, I can do them, but don't for where I live folks just don't want to pay for the extra work. To think you did it with a 1x30 and a 4x36. I can see the 4x36 doing the tang's taper as the 4" width would be an asset. Do you get the "no bump" Tru-Grit belts PoolQs? I do small hollow grinds with my 1x42 so it isn't impossible, just takes longer. You did a very good job.

Ray, I am not gonna make this KITH I'm sorry to say, I've had two orders that have to be gone Monday (I need that $$!) and am packing after living here for over 9 years. My apartment in NM may not be available till July 1st and I have to go through all the new setup hassles. I don't know if I'll be able. Sorry, it just doesn't look good at the moment.
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  #109  
Old 06-17-2017, 10:45 PM
PoolQs PoolQs is offline
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Thx for the very kind words Jim. It was certainly a challenge on how I was going to do this with the
30" and 36". What I basically did was draw the taper that I wanted, and took it down with 36 grit on my
1x30. Did the final flattening and taper on the 36" to 120 grit and then back to the 30" for the finish.

The hardest part was trying to incorporate a wheel to fit my 30". It didn't happen.
Now ... NO LAUGHING... I took my 36" and turned it upside down and backwards and mounted it so that
the top 3" wheel was facing me and running downwards. Built a spark catcher into a water bucket and
made my hollow grind.

I know that none of this is typical or even preached, but I was determined to make this KITH with Ray's specs.
One of these days I will build my 72" and look back and laugh at the craziness that I have done over the
last 3 years JUST to build a knife.

Oh, and yes, I have been using Tru-Grits belts for the last 2 years and love them. I have a great assortment
from them. Again, no laughing, but I also have the collection of Gators, Norax's, Klingspor, 3M micros, cermamics and
a bunch of AO's. My 30" is NOT optimal for this hobby but I got one of the baddest and most functional
variable speed 1x30's out there with over 50 knives off the bench.

Troy
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  #110  
Old 06-18-2017, 05:56 AM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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Real good man...I don't do tapers either...not because people wont pay for it its just because I am no good at it lol...they always come out crooked. I just ordered a surface grinder attachment for my kmg and you can tilt the table and run in a perfect taper everytime...so I will be trying it with that..
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  #111  
Old 06-18-2017, 08:15 PM
WNC Goater WNC Goater is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PoolQs View Post

The hardest part was trying to incorporate a wheel to fit my 30". It didn't happen.
Now ... NO LAUGHING... I took my 36" and turned it upside down and backwards and mounted it so that
the top 3" wheel was facing me and running downwards. Built a spark catcher into a water bucket and
made my hollow grind.

My 30" is NOT optimal for this hobby but I got one of the baddest and most functional
variable speed 1x30's out there with over 50 knives off the bench.

Troy
Look, you use what tools you have and learn to master them. I built on a 1 x 30, probably my first 25-30 knives. Sold them for enough to buy a 2 x 72 KMG. (Well, those knives and a S7W .38 spl.!) Some people in Africa forge sitting on the ground with a rock for an anvil and old inner tube for a bellows.
James McClendon blows my mind with his 4 x 36. He has mastered it and does what I would think impossible. (See his forged cable damascus KITH on page 6 of this thread.) Here is the YouTube of him grinding and even more amazing, doing a hollow grind with that 4 x 36.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eRqhays5vEc&t=33s


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  #112  
Old 06-18-2017, 10:39 PM
jimmontg jimmontg is offline
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Dtec

Dave; Note that PoolQs marked his tapered tang. When I make one I always deep scribe the lines into the edge of the steel, before HT, both sides, it is a must cuz after HT you need to put a sharpie pen mark on the side to see the line because you won't be able to scribe it deep and the sharpie ink comes off real easy. Unless you have a diamond tipped scriber which I do. With a solid scribe line doing a tapered tang is more about time than how hard to get it even. Just FYI. Also, don't try to freehand one, you need a square to the belt tool rest for a reference point. Nothing wrong with tooling cheats. If I tried to freehand one that would probably be the last one I ever did.

Message me if you need any help setting up that surface grinder to do tapers. I have angle blocks and a bunch of precision tools, now you don't really need them, but they do make some processes easier. I have adjustable matching angle blocks and for surface grinding? You'll wonder why you never got any before. Just one of those tools you never heard of and when you see it you'll go,"Oh Wow, why don't the knife supply places sell them?" Well they ain't cheap. They are also basically machinist's tools. Never saw a good machinist without a 4' wide by 6' tall roll-away tool box.lol

That James McClendon video gave me a great idea about my 2x48 belt grinder, thanx for the link Goater!
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  #113  
Old 06-19-2017, 06:02 AM
damon damon is offline
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O1 blade, hollow ground
desert ironwood handle with stainless corby rivets, tapered full tang.
416 stainless bolsters, dovetailed, and a touch of extra detailing.
I tried a little different style of sheath.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg DSCF2443.jpg (27.1 KB, 24 views)
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  #114  
Old 06-19-2017, 07:22 AM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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Looks great Damon! Send me the original picture please, that one is too small ...


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  #115  
Old 06-20-2017, 03:20 PM
WNC Goater WNC Goater is offline
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&@*#%!!!!! Finishing up my KITH and scratched the blade. Now I got to go to the grinder & try to fix.
Just #&@*#^%+. !!!



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  #116  
Old 06-20-2017, 04:39 PM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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"Just finishing"? Looks like you have an edge on it so I assume the handle is on there too. If that is the case, where is your blue tape?

I got tired of having the problem you're having. For me, the solution was to grind the blade until it was completely finished, then put the blue tape on it. Next the handle goes on, gets shaped, finished. Then the blade gets sharpened - right through the tape. Then, and only then (after the grinder work is DONE), does the tape come off. No more problem.

Of course, a ding like that can happen while you're finishing the blade but if it does it relatively easy to fix....


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  #117  
Old 06-20-2017, 07:13 PM
WNC Goater WNC Goater is offline
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That was a slip while rounding the spine. Something new I wanted to do. Yes, YES, I know, but I didn't PLAN AHEAD to round off the spine, more of a spur of the moment decision while doing the final finishing. Lack of prior planning...

Anyway. I went to the grinder this evening and touched it up and then satin finished (again) with a ScotchBrite wheel. You can still see the boo-boo but you have to sort of look for it.

The knife is finished though I did put some BLO on the handle scales. I used stabilized Claro Walnut but don't like the relatively muddy-dull finish I get with it. So a little oil should help bring out some character in the wood. Just need to stitch up a sheath for it. I'll take photos in the next day or so.


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Last edited by WNC Goater; 06-20-2017 at 07:16 PM.
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  #118  
Old 06-20-2017, 08:13 PM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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Why a muddy finish? If the walnut is pro stabilized like from K&G and you sand to even a 400 grit finish, buff with White Diamond and follow with No Scratch Pink it should look like glass....


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  #119  
Old 06-20-2017, 08:48 PM
PoolQs PoolQs is offline
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Thanks Goater for That James McClendon video link. Man-O-Man, do I have some crazy ideas now !!!

I know that you will have no issues with that blade. It will be a prize worth owning.
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  #120  
Old 06-21-2017, 05:54 AM
WNC Goater WNC Goater is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray Rogers View Post
Why a muddy finish? If the walnut is pro stabilized like from K&G and you sand to even a 400 grit finish, buff with White Diamond and follow with No Scratch Pink it should look like glass....
Yes, K&G stabilized. Bought a block & sliced into two or three sets of scales. One set I used on a personal knife and was underwhelmed. This kith i took to 800 grit just to see. Again underwhelmed. The wood grain is just lost and the wood surface dull. Yes with my personal knife mentioned above I used a cloth buff and couldn't get close to "glassy" or even what I'd call glossy and so I didn't even try with this kith after seeing where I was at 800 grit. Maybe I just got a bad block, dunno.
I DO know I get better looking finishes and prettier wood by hand finishing nice figured wood.

I've got some nice figured N Carolina Black Walnut I've thought of sending some to K & G but I fear ruining it!


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