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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need. |
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#1
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Help me with bolster material choice!
Hello, I am making a filet knife for my Dad. I've chosen to use O1 tool steel that is .110 thick, I have not yet heat treated it, but Dad has chosen some super pretty swordfish bill slabs that have been stabilized as handle material.
I decided to make a small rear bolster, and a medium to large front bolster with six pins on the swordfish. Initially I was going to use brass for the bolsters and pins, with maybe using a brass fish shield to inlay on the mark side. As the design goes, I will probably minimize the trailing tip as I don't care for how pronounced it is - but we'll see how it works out. I've started having second thoughts about using brass. I have some stainless steel, but thought about getting some nickel silver or copper instead. I can't decide. (mokume gane would be really cool, but I don't have the cash for it.) This knife has a 9" blade. Due to it being O1 tool steel and brass it will have to be taken care of when he goes to Florida - he said he understood that) I have even entertained the idea of using some G10, but I haven't committed yet - still a little while away from that and So: I thought I would ask you Fine Gentleman what your thoughts would be concerning the bolster material? I like the way the brass brings out the color in the swordfish, but am concerned about the weight and of course with corrosion of the brass (again O1 tool steel, so It will have to be cared for) I really appreciate your thoughts and responses! Thank You in advance! Alex Thanks! __________________ AT "We shall walk with a walk that is measured and slow, And watch where the chalk-white arrows go To the place where the sidewalk ends." Shel Silverstein Last edited by ATalley; 08-16-2015 at 12:01 PM. |
#2
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That actually feels like a pretty tough question to me. It comes down to how much corrosion resistance do you need? If you need rust resistance then go with stainless, otherwise any of the materials you mentioned would be about the same except for looks (brass, nickle/silver and 300 series stainless are all kind of gummy to work and they are all fairly heavy). On the subject of looks, I think your original opinion of brass being the best visual match to your other materials is probably right ...
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#3
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Thanks Ray!
__________________ AT "We shall walk with a walk that is measured and slow, And watch where the chalk-white arrows go To the place where the sidewalk ends." Shel Silverstein |
#4
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I agree with Ray. I think the brass would look best. The o1 will require care, the brass won't make it any worse. Can't wait to see it finished! Would like to see it again in the future, after it has developed a patina.
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#5
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Thanks for your input, Mark. I'm excited to see how it will patina as well! I will post more when I get it completed.
__________________ AT "We shall walk with a walk that is measured and slow, And watch where the chalk-white arrows go To the place where the sidewalk ends." Shel Silverstein |
#6
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Since you are using O1 for the blade, the corrosion issue with the other components is rather mute. They all are going to have a tough time with saltwater environments. Therefore use what ever looks good to you and will please your dad. Like you said, he'll have to take "extra" care of it if he wants it to remain presentable.
If you are concerned with weight, you will have to go to synthetic materials for the bolsters. The relative weights of the metals you mentioned will mean very little in the finished product. Might I suggest, if you have not gone too far with it already and you have enough material, to make a second one all stainless as a more environmentally compatible "user". Basically one for salt and one for fresh. __________________ Carl Rechsteiner, Bladesmith Georgia Custom Knifemakers Guild, Charter Member Knifemakers Guild, voting member Registered Master Artist - GA Council for the Arts C Rex Custom Knives Blade Show Table 6-H |
#7
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Keep it light , durable and maintenance free, black G10 and as he applies a light coat of user friendly mineral oil to maintain , it will have no ill affect on the bolster , fancy it ip with a couple morning star brass mosaic pins ?
__________________ R.Watson B.C. Canada Last edited by BCROB; 08-19-2015 at 09:48 AM. |
#8
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Great advice, thank you! Carl I hadn't actually considered using stainless. That sounds like a next project.
Rob, I'm intrigued about the black g10, but I'm not sure about the mosaic pins. I've figured it for 6 brass ones. I'd hate to busy up that gorgous swordfish. Perhaps If I could find a simple mosaic design I would consider it. Good idea! Thanks Gentleman __________________ AT "We shall walk with a walk that is measured and slow, And watch where the chalk-white arrows go To the place where the sidewalk ends." Shel Silverstein |
#9
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if weight is an issue.... 1/8" 416 stainless would offer most of the benefits of stainless, but as you said.... O1 blade so itll have to be treated right any way.
416 is a bit easier to work than the 300 series and as an engraver I lean heavy toward the 416 anyway. using a thinner stock, and contouring it lightly, then contouring the slightly thicker handle material to match the bolsters would not be out of balance for a knife that size. swardfish bill...... wow now that's getting unique. cant wait to see how this one finishes out. |
Tags |
bee, blade, bolster, bolsters, brass, design, file, fishing knife, g10, handle, handle material, heat, inlay, knife, make, making, material, mokume, pins, post, silver, small, stainless, stainless steel, steel |
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