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The S.R. "Steve" Johnson Forum Specialized knife making tips, technique and training for "ultra precision" design work enthusiasts.

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Old 06-13-2015, 11:40 AM
stoney327 stoney327 is offline
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: pennsylvania
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Originally Posted by Geno View Post
Baby food jars make good see through containers.
Screw the lids to an overhanging shelf and the jars attatch in an out of the way place.Make rows for storage that is easily seen and gotten to.
Just look up to find the 1/8 rivets, and unscrew the jar for easy access, when finished, just screw the jar back in place overhead and out of the way.
Your post took me back to my childhood ( 50's and 60's ). I couldn't help but remember one of our projects ( in industrial arts shop. ) It was a rotating small parts holder. We made what looked like an old time " tool caddy " with tapered end plates. What would have been the wooden dowel handle, was 4 pieces of 1x4 cut to about 16" long and nailed together to form a tube 4" X 4" X 16" long. Next we cut 2 4X4 plates and drilled a 3/4" holes through the center and nailed and glued them to the ends of the square tube. Then the tube had a 3/4" wooden dowel inserted through it's length, and glued in place. Next 2 fairly long wood screws were put through 3/16" holes drilled in the end plates and into the center of the wooden dowel, so the whole square tube rotated with the wood screws acting as axles. Then we took baby food jars, and with short wood screws through the center of the lids, we attached the lids along the entire length of each side of the wooden tube. Now you could fill the baby food jars with nuts, bolts, small screws, anything you wanted to, set the whole thing on your work bench and have access to whatever you needed, simply by rotating the tube to the jar of parts you wanted. And since the jars were clear, you could see what was in each jar. I hope this makes some sense and helps give you a small parts storage ideas? You may be able to find diagrams for this online ? I have seen other people with these on their work benches, so it can't just be a local school thing? Good luck.
Best regards:
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Old 08-14-2015, 12:42 AM
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Steve M Steve M is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: New Zealand
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Originally Posted by zappo View Post
One of the best tips I've heard in a while, I got from Steve's sub-hilt video. The thumb of an old glove cut off and slid over your present glove. I don't know why but I wouldn't have thought of that and it works great.
I've been using a couple of rubber money counting thimbles after i read it on a forum some ware, they work great and still effective when wet
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Old 08-14-2015, 12:55 AM
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Steve M Steve M is offline
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Originally Posted by Steve View Post
This past while, as I fought to get just the right amt. of handle material off, while fitting the "spacer" piece, ahead of the sub-hilt, it dawned on me that the problem was not the spacer, or me, but the worn-out sanding disc that I was using. It got the material hot, it wold not cut straight and true and it was taking forever. I switched it to a sharper disc and my problems were solved. It cut faster (so I did have to take it easy on the pressure against the disc, so that I didn't cut it too short!) but it cut my time in half and the accuracy of the cut was much improved! Of course, this might be obvious to many, but sometimes we just get working along and don't pay attention to the obvious. Though it might not hurt to mention it. Same goes for grinding belts, of course....... ....except for Trizact belts and cork belts, which seem to never wear out, at times!
Steve, You just reminded me of similar frustrations i had recently with my cork belts. no matter what i did or how long i persisted i couldn't get the scratches out of the last few blades, it was driving me nuts and wasting hours until it dawned on me they could be contaminated with wayward grit. So i grabbed an old hardened blade blank and forced it into the belt stripping off all the compound that had built up until i saw fresh cork. It took considerable force to achieve...Problem solved! Polishing blades is a joy once more.
They may last for years but they appear to need some TLC every now and then.

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Old 08-16-2015, 07:14 PM
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Steve Steve is offline
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Manti, Utah USA
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Good points, Steve.
Thank you.
Those belts are expensive and if we can make them last longer it's great!

NRA Endowment Member
Knifemakers' Guild Member since 1971
"May you live all the days of your life." - Jonathan Swift
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Old 08-19-2015, 12:30 PM
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zappo zappo is offline
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Thanks guys I was having the same problem with cork belts, it looked like it was putting scratches IN. I have been going to a 15 micron after the cork belt. I'll clean my belt.

Zane Blackwell
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