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  #16  
Old 12-25-2008, 11:51 AM
Barbara Turner Barbara Turner is offline
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Sorry, I originally used a link but didn't realize that I had external links turned off in that gallery. They are now visible.


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  #17  
Old 12-26-2008, 02:16 PM
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Thanks Barbara, now I can see these lovely pictures. While it's impossible for me to judge resolution w/o a RAW file, what is obvious to me in looking at these scenes is that first, the exposure appears ideal in each case, and second, though there's not much color overall, the color rendering is fantastic. In a way these are comments about the camera/lens combination. The 100mm macro is an ideal mate for the 5D MKII, one of its strengths being the ability to sort out color and detail well. You and Coop are lucky to have such terrific tools at your disposal.

I like the pictures a lot. High contrast situations like that are a huge challenge for photographers and have been forever, even (or especially) in the film days. Losing detail in the areas of deep shadow and bright white is kind of a cardinal sin in photography and separates the beginners from the more advanced. Likewise with cameras and now digital capture, which is getting better and better, to wit the 5D MKII.

I like the composition of your pictures which you obviously considered. Also the selection of subject matter is very good - cold & wet - winter and the experience of being 'out in it' - all things that are so subtle as to be easily lost in translation.

If you were to take any of the three but especially 2 and 3, and 'burn in' the edges and corners such that the viewer's eye is drawn toward the inner areas of interest in the frame, and then size it appropriately for printing and framing ...well, they call that 'fine art photography' ...! Nice.


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  #18  
Old 12-27-2008, 05:16 PM
Barbara Turner Barbara Turner is offline
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Question for Buddy

I personally like #2 and #3 of the photos better myself. The first photo is lacking punch. When you say burn the edges, can you post a sample. Would you use dodge & burn tool in Photoshop? Thanks


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  #19  
Old 12-27-2008, 11:57 PM
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Here's a thread link that discusses a number of different strategies for darkening the edges or other select areas of the photo: http://photo.net/digital-darkroom-forum/00Bc1A

Here's an example in a knife related photo:



It's not a technique to use all the time but when appropriate, it can make for a more dramatic visual presentation - kind of like stating something in BOLD or ITALICS in the context of the written word.


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Last edited by Buddy Thomason; 12-29-2008 at 04:15 AM.
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  #20  
Old 12-28-2008, 10:44 AM
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I refer to it as vignetting. I have learned how to create a clear vignette layer, and then you can erase some areas that you don't want to shadow. It's a reverse operation of sorts.

GREAT visual examples, Buddy.

Coop


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  #21  
Old 12-29-2008, 12:18 AM
Barbara Turner Barbara Turner is offline
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Buddy,

Thanks for the link on the darkening. When I have some time I will do some experimentation. The pictures you and Coop post are always top notch and a pleasure to view.

Coop,

I am going to post a picture that I did a quick vignette on, using Aperture. I think I went a little dark, so I will have to back it off a little. Any suggestions always welcome and appreciated.

Thanks to you all.


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  #22  
Old 12-29-2008, 12:19 AM
Barbara Turner Barbara Turner is offline
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I am reposting the photos, one with the darkened edges. I will have to try that trick in photoshop. For a quick darkening, I used the vignetting tool in Aperture.

Original



Re-touched



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Last edited by Barbara Turner; 01-05-2009 at 12:18 AM.
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  #23  
Old 12-29-2008, 08:21 AM
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Hi Barbara,

Yes, I like this second photo better. It appears to be darker all over, but whatever you did makes it stand out stronger. Very nice.

I utilize and create actions that automate the processes all the time. Here's how to create a Vignette layer. Once done, it's so easy you will love it:

1. Create a new layer (Bottom button on the Layers Pallet.)
2. Fill the new layer with white (Use the Paint Bucket tool)
3. Go to Filters/Distort/Lens Correction and set the vignette properties on the white layer. (Use more than you need, as you can dial it down later)
4. Change the view mode on this layer in the upper Layers pallet from 'Normal' to 'Multiply'. (One of those crazy, "Who knows these things?" tips I got from the pros.)
5. Change the opacity of the layer to suit.
6. Erase areas of the layer that you want to unmask (Optional).

If you record these steps as an action, you click one button and 'Voila' there it is. The benefit is you can use it or not, because it's a layer..

Let me know.

Coop


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  #24  
Old 12-29-2008, 04:38 PM
Barbara Turner Barbara Turner is offline
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Coop,

Thank you very much for the instructions on doing a vignette layer in Photoshop. I will make one and save it in Actions. I am not terribly proficient in Photoshop, as I use mostly Aperture for the ease of workflow. One of these days I will have to take a class. I have books but tend to get easily frustrated.


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  #25  
Old 01-04-2009, 12:44 PM
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If you look around the edges of the image - everywhere but the UR corner where the light is stronger - you can see that I used a version of the technique that singled out the dark areas and made them darker. I hope I'm not stating this in a confusing way but if you think about it, it makes sense AND you can actually see the effect. This is about as strong as I ever go with this kind of stuff - more starts to look quite dramatic.



Imagine if I'd chosen more midtones rather than shadows, and enhanced that part of the curve - or highlights. Almost every photo editing program, even basic ones, offer this basic level of control.

I used the lasso tool to draw the curving line around the plant subject, set an edge feather of 12 (for this already shrunk for the net version), invert my selection and, though there are many ways to do the next step, I like the curves tool because it's visual. I pick the part of the tone curve I want to change the most, pick that point and move it in any direction I choose - like salt... to taste, so to speak.

This isn't necessarily my favorite or 'the best' way at all. Coops suggestions are right on.

PS: If you do this in a duplicate layer on top of the original you get the added option of tweaking the opacity of the effect or even applying interesting filters like overlay, screen, color burn and such.


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Last edited by Buddy Thomason; 01-04-2009 at 12:48 PM.
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  #26  
Old 01-05-2009, 12:12 AM
Barbara Turner Barbara Turner is offline
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Thank you Buddy for your assistance in performing a darkening of the overall image. I just need to spend some time using Photoshop so I become more proficient. As always, great job with the photos.


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  #27  
Old 01-05-2009, 08:51 AM
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Smart method. Requires no erasing. Me likes.

In a larger version, we would have to use a larger feather--say 100 pixels on a full size image, right? I thought so. Just clarifying.

Coop


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  #28  
Old 01-06-2009, 03:03 AM
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Yup! The full size files from my 1DsMkII are so big that I use as much as 250px for feathering the edge of the selection. Of course, I don't habitually shoot at the full size so for something reasonable like a 5-7 mgb file, 100px is perfect.

Barbara, don't worry if you don't have time right now to get way into your photo processing software. You're still getting used to your great new camera gear and it will take a while for the realization of what you have there to sink in. Your camera/lens combo can produce such pure digital files that they can endure some post processing without degradation. We're lucky to live in these times, phototechnographically speaking.


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  #29  
Old 01-06-2009, 11:18 AM
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Nice sword handle photo, Buddy!


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  #30  
Old 01-06-2009, 02:16 PM
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Buddy Thomason Buddy Thomason is offline
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Thanks, Alex!

I should have done a before/after comparison in my example above. Hopefully the following two frame before/after animation will better illustrate the effect:



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