|
|
Register | All Photos | FAQ | Members List | Calendar | ShopStream (Radio/TV) | Search | Today's Posts | Mark Forums Read |
Fit & Finish Fit and Finish = the difference in "good art" and "fine art." Join in, as we discuss the fine art of finish and embellishment. |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Attaching fixed-blade full-tang scales with screws?
I want to try attaching some scales with screws. Does 1/8 steel offer enough 'bite' for opposing screws in the same hole? Anyone do this routinely? Thanks, Dave |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
No, it does not. Most people use a different hole but put it right next to the other one. Being very close together it is almost impossible to tell they are not in the same place since you have to turn the knife over to see the other screws. Unless they get out some calipers it would usually go unnoticed. If it is noticed and explaination will make sense to most people. Most that collect knives are aware of this and don't have any issues with it. |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
Dave, Are the screws going to be the only means of holding the scales?What is the screw size and thread count that you are thinking of using? |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
I also have been considering using screws for handle slabs and bolsters for some knives. Still just in the thought stages, but figured when/if I do I will just use a short tube in the hole that will provide enough threads for each side. I'm guessing that this could be countersunk into the slabs, and not be a problem....? Steve |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
I am making a knife that needs screws asswell...I plan on doing it like Steve suggests |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
Why not buy some standoffs, with internal threads, and recess the back of the handle material a bit and the screws will be in line. Drill a hole in the handle where you want the screws to be and install the standoff. Most electronics stores should have them. Tom |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
Tom, My hunter video uses that method, but they are in a straight line, not offset. I use 2-56 S/S cap screws and 1/8X1/8 stand offs. It keeps you from breaking taps off in the tang. I drill the pilot hole all the way thru, where the screw threads bearly clear, ream the tang to 1/8", and countersink the face side of the handle slabs for the screw head. The screws meet in the middle with 4&1/2 turns per screw, locking together inside the stand off insert, forming a bond like a solid 1/8" pin with flared heads. I do use locktite on the threads, but you can dissassemble if neccessary. The video shows you how to get all the holes the same depth for the screw heads, how to make the screws the same length to meet in the middle and lock with a flat face on the ends, flare the inserts into the tang for permanent internal threads after H/T, ect... It would be a long thread to explain it all, but the stand offs are the way to go for screw handles and bolsters. |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
Gene, That's what I was trying to say and not doing a very good job of it. Blame it on all the medication they have me on. Tom |
Tags |
blade, knife, knives |
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
(View-All) Members who have read this thread : 11 | |
Bob Warner, fusionblades, jdm61, Josh LeGoueff, Leaderzero, Naboyle, pdxken, pekey, pens.n.peppers, Phxguy66, SmokeyJay |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|