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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need. |
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#1
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2 knives i'm working on
hello everyone. this isn't my first time to the forums but it has been a while.
These are 2 knives i'm making by way of stock removal.(not enough room where i live to run my forge ) They started as 2"x1/8"x18" O1 flat ground bar. Did most of the major removal with a hacksaw. Then proceeded to my 72" grinder(homemade ). first i cut the 18" bar in half. it was a bit over 18" so i got 2 good 9" pieces here's one. don't mind the rust i've had it a while heres one after i cut away the major amounts of steel i wanted gone, me and the hacksaw had quite the time heres the second one after the hacksaw some grinding and used a file on it. had some adulterations in the metal after i grinder it. so i used a five to flatten it back out and here they are now the top one got hot when i was grinding the ricasso. you can see it in the pic.hoping its ok the bottom one. has a modified chisel grind? I did a flat grind to the side you can't see bringing the edge to center then applied the chisel grind to the side you see Picking up a drill press tomorrow so i can drill the pin holes and some holes to lighten the handle some. They are very handle heavy ATM I have wood picked out for the knives already. top one will have an Orange Osage handle. and the bottom one will have Curly Walnut. i'm going to have to harden them in my 2 brick forge. hoping i don't have any issues going to try to resize the pics. and those aren't pits or cracks just som discoloring that look bad in the pics Update 5/10 Got my drill press today and few other things i needed. here the knives are with the handles rough shaped. still a lot of sanding left. looks like its going to the weekend after next before i can heat treat these. oh welll Last edited by squigly1965; 05-11-2016 at 12:13 AM. |
#2
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reserved for updates
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#3
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i have a question about the chisel grind. Do i add a bevel to sharpen it or am i supposed to bring the chisel grind all the way till its sharp
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#4
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Traditionally, the grind would be brought down until it is sharp. This is sometimes referred to as a 'zero' grind or a Scandi grind. But, that type of edge is very difficult to do and it is even more difficult for the average user to maintain so you usually see a secondary bevel on most chisel ground blades ....
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#5
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thats pretty much what i was thinking.
i would like to put some bolsters on that knife. but i the only materials i have are mystery stainless(304 i think but not sure) and brass rod for pins. not sure how the contrasting materials would look. so i will probably just finish with just scales and save the bolstering for a future knife when i have either brass stock or stainless rod |
#6
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Put a magnet to that stainless. If it doesn't stick then its probably a 300 series stainless....
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#7
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ok well nit seems its most likely 300 series stainless, as the magnet did not stick.
and the grind on the backside of the lower knife is actually a flat grind. going to edit original post |
#8
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updated original post with pic for knives with handle material rough shaped
the lower middle pin hole on the bottom knife has a small void next to it. was thinking of filling it with CA glue after i peen and just before i oil the handle. i think thats my best course of action. but if anyone has any ideas i'm all ears |
#9
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Mix a little (very little!) sawdust from the handle material with the CA and it can blend better.
It is generally a better idea to wait until the HT is finished before cutting up the handle material. The blade could warp or crack during the HT which means you probably won't need a handle. Even if that doesn't happen the steel might shrink enough to throw off your pin alignment or the clean up work you do after HT could change the way the scales fit.... |
Tags |
back, bee, blade, chisel grind, drill, edge, file, flat, forge, grinder, grinding, handle, harden, homemade, image, knives, making, metal, mobile, press, saber grind, steel, stock removal, walnut, wood |
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