The more I try the more I can't figure it out

[doublearrow]

I tried the tang tapering thing, but I can't find out what I'm doing wrong. When I lay handle scales down on the blade there is a gap on the end of the handle. I ground it with in the vertical position with the blade up and handle down. I understand not getting a true flat on the leading edge because of the belt bunching up then going under the blade I just can't figure out why it would do the same coming out. While running the belt runs flat against the platen not out away from it. I've messed with tension, I've messed with belts, and messed with pressure,and I still can't figure out why it takes more off the end of the handle when it is the trailing end. I've had problems both ways, tapering the tang and just trying to get the handle flat to lay slabs on. anyone have any solutions? thanks in advance for any help.

[TJ Smith]

Belts shouldn't bunch up. to loose maybe. Also the platen should be flat, flat, flat.
Neoceram or pryoceram makes it eaiser.
Your platen should,when seen from the side push the belt out a little beyond straight.(1/4 inch)
Could also be you're touching the heel first as you move into the grinder.
Boy thats a tough one and probaly why I do mostly hidden tangs
Hope you can work it out.
TJ

[doublearrow]

Thanks for the help I keep seeing all the stuff about pyrocam. As soon as i get some money saved up I'm gonna have to get a piece. As far as the belt bunching up that might have been a bad choice of words. It doesn't bunch up but if you lay something flat on the platen, it just doesn't grind flat on the leading edge. When I searched for the reason the trailing edge wasn't flat I came across threads about why you can't grind pieces truly flat because of the way the belt does when it comes under the leading edge. Thanks again for the pyrocam suggestion.

[JimmySeymour]

It's really hard to comment without seeing what you are doing. With the suggestions above about pryoceram, and making your sure your platen is flat, I can only tell you how to go about fixing what you allready got. You can always leave just a little meat on the handle, not to much, and draw file it flat and to desired size. If you get it close shouldn't take you more than 5 minutes, maybe 10. When you flatten your scales use a flat surface ie, granite, tempered glass, machine table, whatever you are using and flatten them in a circle 8 pattern. I kept get an uneven flat on my scales just going back and forth until I did it in a circle 8 pattern. Hope this helps, and if dosn't don't tell anyone I told you.

[JeridJohnson]

Make sure your platen is flat.

[DiamondG Knives]

Double Arrow
You didnt mention what type of machine you have, each type and brand has their particular quirks. I agree that your platen, is either A.) Not a true Flat, or B.) That it isnt pushing into the belt enough.

One other thought is you may be rolling the end a bit, giving a radius area, but that shoud be at the end of ther bar.

Let us Know what kind of setup you have, and I bet someone here has had the same problems you have had!!

God Bless
Mike

[doublearrow]

Thanks for the advice guys. i checked my platen and it is flat. I Went out and tried another blade making a concious effort to hit leading edge first so that I wasn't hitting the back of the knife into the platen first but still ended up with the same result. As far as set up I have a new KMG, finally got it up and going now I've got forty million questions.

[SteveS]

Ryan,

Don't know from here, but here's a piece of information that may help. These stupid things cut most directly where the pressure is applied. Say you have a 6" piece of steel, and the whole thing is against the platen. If you are applying pressure in the center (say with your thumb), it'll cut more from the center.

If you are applying pressure at the bottom itl'l cut more off the bottom. Bummer, but that's life.

Try holding the blade in one hand and keep a bunch of fingers on the tang - distributing the pressure evenly. It cuts terribly slow that way (less pressure in any one spot), but will flatten out. You'll have to hold it there for a long time too.

Try this: cover the tang with a Sharpe. Go to the grinder and press on one spot with your thumb. Then lift it back off - evenly. I'll bet the area where your thumb was pressing will be the only clean area. The rest will still show black.

Again I don't know for sure, but that's an issue to look into.

Steve

[KandS_KNIVES]

I find the best way to taper the tang is to: first get rid of some of the steel in the middle of the tang,second: use a strong magnet to hold the tang against the plateen, third: learn to put all the tang against the belt, at the same time and taking the tang away from the belt. I have a dead-man foot swith on my grinders, so I can place the tang against the platen before starting the grinder. Works for me, hope it might help you.

[tmiller5087]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...871507569&rd=1

That should help if you have the coin.

[doublearrow]

Thanks for the tips guys. i usually try to get back and tell ya'll thanks, but work has been busy lately. I haven't even been out to the shop to try anything different. Again I appreciate the help.

[markd]

Is the very end of your handle extending below the platen at all? I've done that on my griz before and had a little gap when I went to apply scales.

[Gary Mulkey]

There can be many reasons for not being able to grind perfectly flat & many have already been covered. One thing that helps me and maybe you're doing this already is to hold the tang with a magnet. This places the tang between a flat platen and a flat magnet as well as making it much easier to control the angle.

Gary