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The Sheath/Holster Makers Forum This is the place to discuss all forms of sheath and holster making.

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Old 06-13-2006, 07:29 PM
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Ice Tigre Ice Tigre is offline
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Fairbanks, ALASKA
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Wow.. those 1911 rigs are wonderful!
I might have to do one of those for my browning.....

Wonderful info so far Chuck! I'm in the middle of a gun belt, so the loop info is a great help.



Gary Blessing,
Ex-custom knife maker, Ex-Folder modifier & embelisher.

Last edited by Ice Tigre; 10-23-2006 at 02:28 AM.
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Old 06-14-2006, 05:08 PM
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cwp cwp is offline
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Location: Emmett, Idaho
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OK Chuck, you got my brain going! What is the best way to determing the loop size for a rivited loop holster? I've got an idea and might have to try it out.

Gary, let me know if you are thinking of one of these, I may throw this holster out into the world once I make one that fits me.


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Old 06-15-2006, 08:32 PM
Hot&CoaledForge Hot&CoaledForge is offline
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Location: NW Arkansas
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online articles and patterns - cowboy gear

Here's a site with a little info and some free patterns regarding cowboy gear -
- Jim
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Old 06-16-2006, 06:14 PM
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Chuck Burrows Chuck Burrows is offline
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Location: Durango, Co
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Originally Posted by cwp
OK Chuck, you got my brain going! What is the best way to determine the loop size for a riveted loop holster? I've got an idea and might have to try it out.
I build the holster and put the gun in it. Then I take some manila folder stock and make a pattern - I make the width of the single loop from 1-1/34" wide depending on the look I want. I then skive the ends of the loop to a feather edge and then glue them together - overlapping them for about an inch. Place on the pouch and then mark the skirt for placement - I apply contact cement to the back of the loop and press it against the skirt while still wet - this gives me a spot on the skirt to apply cement. Re-apply the cement to both sides and then glue together while the loop is in place on the pouch and skirt. Let dry, pull the pouch from the glued on loop and rivet in place - for period pieces I use #14 copper rivets and burrs, for more modern you can use sppedy type cap rivets of the correct size. I generally use 6 rivets place in pairs at the top and bottom of the loop. This style takes a bit more work and can cause some cussing, but IMO it's worth the time and effort.

on this image you posted in the other thread, I can see what you mean by the full woven loops. Two questions about these:
When you cut the slots, do you punch a hole on either end and slice between them?
Do the round spots do the securing or do you also stitch it?
If I'm not mistaken, that looks like the Mexican loop from the video.
Those loops are actually what I call semi-woven: the loops go up through one slot and back down through another. When making this style I use a 5/8" spacing for 44-45 cartridges and it will generally work on 38/357 as well. To lay out I mark for the slots 5/8" apart and 1" long. On this style when cutting the slots I punch two slot inside the marks on one space leaving a piece of leather 3/8" wide, skip over leaving a 5/8" gap and punch inside the lines again and repeat. Does this make sense? To thread the loop leather I start at one end locking it off on the back side either with a concho or a set of spots, run the loop up through the first slot over a cartridge and back down through the next slot form the front and then back up through the third slot for the next cartridge. The spots (or you can use speedy type cap rivets instead of the spots) lock the loops in place or if the belt is lined then you don't have to put them on. On this type I use one of the aluminum bag punches offered by Hidecrafter Leather because they generally cut a narrower slot than the steel ones - they hold up surprisingly well considering - of course you knife maker guys should be able to build one or adapt a commercial one and re-harden it.

Here is a sample of what I call full-woven loops:

The difference is the loop goes through the slot from the back, around the cartridge and back down through the same slot and repeat. No spots or rivets needed to hold them in place. The advantage of this style on an unlined belt is if/when the loops stretch you can if need be loosen one end and re-thread the loops, taking up the slack.

Any questions fire away...........

P.S. that holster is a "copy" of the one made for the DVD - the customer is a new maker and bought the DVD and a holster like that one to use as his "model" for a pair.....I'm looking forward to seeing his work

Chuck Burrows
Hand Crafted Leather & Frontier Knives
dba Wild Rose Trading Co
Durango, CO

Wild Rose Trading Co - Handcrafted Knife Sheaths

The beautiful sheaths created for storing the knife elevate the knife one step higher. It celebrates the knife it houses.

Last edited by Chuck Burrows; 06-16-2006 at 06:26 PM.
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Old 06-16-2006, 07:03 PM
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cwp cwp is offline
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Thanks Chuck,

I've got a bag of copper rivets, I think I might have to give this a try. Then I need to look at a good cartridge belt. I have so many ideas from this thread it's hard to keep them straight, I'm going to have to start a Moleskine with all the ideas.


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Old 10-11-2009, 12:02 AM
cliff fendley cliff fendley is offline
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Hey Chuck, If you ever get bored how bout a tutorial on toe plugs. I've studied old original holsters and watched your video a hundred times and just have to admire the workmanship. Sewing toe plugs is probably where I struggle the most, sometimes it goes great and sometimes its a struggle. Any pointers you could share?

Cliff Fendley

Come see us at Blade show 26BB.
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Old 03-23-2015, 06:36 AM
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Evgen Evgen is offline
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Very nice holster!
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