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The Sheath/Holster Makers Forum This is the place to discuss all forms of sheath and holster making.

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Old 01-03-2015, 12:36 PM
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ricky_arthur ricky_arthur is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Utah
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my second sheath. couple questions.

The edger and groover showed up yesturday. Also a set of 12 stamps. I resisted the urge to stamp all over this poor thing. But I did complete sheath #2. 2 things I need help with. How to get the belt cut outs more uniform. I used a hole punch top and bottom then a razor to connect the holes.

2, how do I hide the stitches in the back better. I tried to pull the knot into the hole but the eyes of my needles are too small to put a double width of lacing thru. Is there another way? Also the dye color was light brown and it turned out much darker than I wanted. Why is it so dark? Thanks
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Old 01-03-2015, 04:24 PM
damon damon is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: NE Tennessee
Posts: 410
you could try calling this guy to get a custom punch made to the specs you need.

http://www.obrienconsolidated.com/
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Old 01-03-2015, 06:23 PM
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MVPeterson MVPeterson is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Logandale, Nevada
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I've seen punches for making the slots at Tandy. Been wanting to get some, but trying to keep the money outflow moving slower than the inflow. Someday maybe I'll have all the right tools for the job. But the way you did it works fine. Punch the holes then connect them. Maybe use a straight edge to guide the razor. Looks good!
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Old 01-04-2015, 09:11 AM
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Andrew Garrett Andrew Garrett is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Nampa, Idaho
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I cut grooves on both sides to recess all stitching.

First, i put the glued up sheath on the grinder and get as perfect a 90* angle as I can on the edges as I can with a 120G. I check this very closely, as this is the secret to getting the grooves on both side directly opposite with one another.

Then, with your groover set to the desired inset, cut the grooves to the desired depth.

Then, use your overstitch wheel in the front-side groove to mark your hole locations and carefully punch the holes one at a time with an awl. I use a rubber mat to back the punches but even a phone book will work. Check each hole to ensure that it comes out the back groove. If it is off a little, you can try again. Go in the same hole, but get a bite of some leather in the holeto change the exit location. Leather is very maliable this way.

Be sure that you holes are open enough from both sides that the needle passes through without excessive resistance, but will also allow a tight fit when two lines of thread are pulled through.

Many leatherworkers like the stitching pony and two needle line technique. I just use one line, start at the bottom, go up to the top and right back down finishing the stitch on the second pass. Double or triple the stitches in the last two holes to make it nice and tight, and melt the excess.

A final pass over the stitches with the overstitch wheel will dress everything up nicely.

On a sheath like the one pictured, where some of the stitches are not next to an edge, I would punch my desired starting and finishing holes and use a straight edge to draw a line with a pen between them. Then cut the groove along the line on both sides and proceed as stated.

Once the stitching is done (or at least the grooves are cut) you can bevel the edges and use the dye and Gum Trag to finish it up as desired.


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"Drawing your knife from its sheath and using it in the presence of others should be an event complete with oos, ahhs, and questions."
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Old 01-04-2015, 10:33 AM
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Icho Icho is offline
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Location: Windsor, Ontario, Canada
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I am nowhere near being a pro and I still have a lot to learn but the way I hide my final is as follows. I tie a knot inside the leather. I will try my best to explain. When I reach the final stitch where the knot will end up the threads are both on the same side of leather. Just before#you pull the thread thru the hole the last string is coming out of, tie a standard knot but keep it loose. Now you can pull that thread thru but Don't#pull#it#tight. Now the threads are on the correct sides but the knot is still on one side or the other. There should be slack on both sides forming loops. Make the loops approximately the same size. The knot is#still likely on one side but since you have slack on both sides you can pull on one side so the loose knot ends up in the leather. Now take the ends of the threads and carefully pull them tight keeping the knot hidden in the hole. Repeat this one more time in the same hole being careful not to loosen the first knot or poking the needle thru the other threads. Now you have a standard double knot that is hidden and shouldn't come apart. Snip the excess thread as close to the leather as you can. Now you can burn the ends of the threads or just push them into the hole and out of sight or even a combination of the 2. I found the hole occasionally is stretched a bit so I slightly wet the hole and it tightens back up.

So this is how I do it. I hope I did ok at explaining it. Also i found that the thicker the seam you are sewing the better this works because you don't have to be as precise with the location of the knot. I have read about tying the knot and pushing it into the hole but that never seemed to work for me and I find that a visible knot is unacceptable for me. I'm hoping to see some other ideas from others for hiding the knots.

Your sheaths are looking pretty good.
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