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  #1  
Old 04-09-2008, 09:06 AM
whit375 whit375 is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2005
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Finished Shovel Handle

Well, almost finished. Still need to clean it up a little bit. It didn't have quite as much "curl" all the way through as I'd hoped.

Carl, how do you dye/ finish yours? I wanted a lighter look like you get. I used "Saddle Tan" colored leather dye.

Thanks,

Ryan
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Last edited by whit375; 04-09-2008 at 03:05 PM.
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  #2  
Old 04-09-2008, 03:15 PM
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Harry Mathews Harry Mathews is offline
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Very nice looking knife Ryan. Some of the Ash is really curly; some is curly only in places. If you get lucky you'll find one that is curly from end to end. It will make you buy tools you don't need or want. I don't know what Carl uses on his, but I have used just regular minwax stains and gotten good results. I used some golden oak and got a good looking lighter finish on a pig tail I use grilling. I have also scorched it with a torch for a dark, antique finish that made the fiddle back really pop out when it was polished. I have a Trackrock Bowie blade that I am working on that will likely end up with a piece of fiddle back ash with that finish.


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  #3  
Old 04-10-2008, 06:54 AM
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Crex Crex is offline
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Hey experimenting is half the fun!
I've been using the following recipe on my curly hickory, ash, and oak:
Finish sand to 400; dampen all of surface with misting spray of water (old pump hairspray bottle works great); blot off all surface water; brush on one light coat of potassium permanganate (the purple turns to brown); wipe off excess and let dry completely; resand lightly with 400; buff with 0000 steel wool; remist and blot; apply light coat of chromium trioxide; let dry completely; use the now worn 400 paper to wet sand in small light circular motion using tung or danish oil as wetting agent; do entire surface until smooth then wipe residual off cross grain to fill grain pores. Let this coat cure-out hard then finish as you would any hardwood handle.

The PP enhances the browning process ever so slightly; the CT actuall is a chemical reactive with the sugars in the wood and makes the figure really pop out. I like the "wet" sanding as it really helps fill the grain pores - it's a modification of the finishing process called "French Polishing" used on many old world gun stocks and fine furniture. I think they used linseed oil, I just prefer the Danish or tung because it cures faster. I also think it enhances the figure pop just a little. You can take it to 600 grit and buff for the glossy "plastic" finish.

Hope that helps.


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Old 04-10-2008, 07:23 AM
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john costa john costa is offline
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When The Good Lord was handin out brains, my brother Carl got a double portion. We need to re-name him Comptons....or Worldbook..... or Webster . If you stand close to him some is bound to rub off. Love you buddy.
jc


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Old 04-10-2008, 07:40 AM
RandyScott RandyScott is offline
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Carl, thanks for the tip and technique. I know that PP can be obtained from Home Depot/Lowe's, etc., at a reasonable cost. Would you have a source or recommendation as where to find Chromium Trioxide? What size and estimated cost could one expect? Thanks..
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Old 04-10-2008, 09:19 AM
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Crex Crex is offline
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I bought a substantial supply in powder form from Dixie Gunworks many years ago. I do not have a current source and do not know if they still carry it. Should be easy to find out.

Rade Hawkins carried the stuff, but I've had replies that sometimes his turns wood green (?). Not sure why unless not good QC from his supplier. You might check with him or Pop for current supply status.
Can also try a search here, I vaguely remember some one mentioning buying the powdered form in a thread a good while back.

Cut it out JC! The Macanudas are in transport but you can't have them all!


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Blade Show Table 6-H
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  #7  
Old 04-10-2008, 01:40 PM
whit375 whit375 is offline
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Thanks for the info Carl. On this one I just finished it up with some 600 grit and called it good. The rest of the wood looks pretty good, I think I'll get some nice pieces.
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