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Heat Treating and Metallurgy Discussion of heat treatment and metallurgy in knife making.

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  #1  
Old 07-28-2006, 10:48 PM
Karl B. Andersen's Avatar
Karl B. Andersen Karl B. Andersen is offline
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heat treating W1

Can anyone refer me to a decent W1 heat treating formula?
Or, does anyone have one they prefer and would care to share?
Something reliable, I hope!
Thanks!


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  #2  
Old 07-30-2006, 12:37 PM
John Frankl John Frankl is offline
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I would search this forum, bladeforums, and Don Fogg's forum for posts on W1 by Randall Graham and Nick Wheeler. They have both written alot of really great stuff.

JOhn


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Old 07-31-2006, 08:44 PM
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Karl, W1 is one of my favorite steels. It is basicly a better grade of 1095. I heat to 1450 hold for a few min.s then quench in a fast oil, then two one hour tempers at 400 deg.s. I am forging blades from W1 drill rod and it's been a very, very clean steel with predictable results.

I forgot to mention that I finish forging with lower heats and also normalize once just above critical then agian at critical and last at just below critical. I also like to soak for one hour at 1300 deg.s in my kiln. After reading alot of Kevin Cashen's posts, I am rethinking the way I heat treat a have started working with the info he has be sharing. Thanks Kevin


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Last edited by Don Hanson; 07-31-2006 at 11:12 PM.
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Old 07-31-2006, 10:55 PM
Drunkenduck Drunkenduck is offline
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Wink quick question

Don, just a quick question. It may be a little off topic, but what team does you cat play for?

Doug Lester
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Old 08-01-2006, 05:19 PM
shgeo shgeo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drunkenduck
Don, just a quick question. It may be a little off topic, but what team does you cat play for?

Doug Lester
The Detroit Limes, of course.


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  #6  
Old 08-01-2006, 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by shgeo
The Detroit Limes, of course.
Yep and a bad cat it is, see that look on it's face?


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Last edited by Don Hanson; 08-01-2006 at 07:39 PM.
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Old 08-03-2006, 04:44 AM
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Karl B. Andersen Karl B. Andersen is offline
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Thanks, Don. I'll see how that works for me.


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What do you do when you see your ex in pain, limping and bleeding?

Relax. Take a deep breath. Reload and then shoot again.

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  #8  
Old 08-03-2006, 04:51 AM
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Karl B. Andersen Karl B. Andersen is offline
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Don, do you bring the blade up to temp WITH the oven, or do you put it in after the oven has reached soak? Is this accomplishing a sperodizing procedure? I do something similar with my 5160, yet a much longer soaking segment, and it does a great job. I got the "recipe" from Tim Zowada, who helps design Even Heat's knife ovens and salt pots. Really makes the steel easy to work with, and brings everything equal making for a good hardening! I swear, after doing my sperodizing anneal, my steel gets harder on quench.


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Blade Show Table 8-Q

What do you do when you see your ex in pain, limping and bleeding?

Relax. Take a deep breath. Reload and then shoot again.

http://www.andersenforge.com/
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  #9  
Old 08-03-2006, 08:35 AM
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Karl, I bring the oven up to 1300 with the blade in, then hold for an hour. I started doing this years ago with my billets of mosaic damascus bolster stock that needed to go to the bandsaw. I like the way the steel cut and drilled so I started doing it with my blades. I didn't know what it was called until reading some of Cashen's writings but I did know it was good. I think Al Dippold told me about this. I also do one normalize before I quench.


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  #10  
Old 08-17-2023, 08:55 PM
astmsteel astmsteel is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Karl B. Andersen View Post
Can anyone refer me to a decent W1 heat treating formula?
Or, does anyone have one they prefer and would care to share?
Something reliable, I hope!
Thanks!
You can refer to these W1 steel properties and heat treatment values in this post.
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