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The Sheath/Holster Makers Forum This is the place to discuss all forms of sheath and holster making. |
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#1
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Non-Scuff Kydex sheaths
Hi guys,
Not sure if this is the way to start a thread but here goes. I make heaps of Kydex sheaths, nicely fitted, but I always have some problem with scuffing the finish on the blade. I allow for a small clearance by wrapping the blade in carefully positioned masking tape (to thicken the blade) when moulding, but I still run into problems. Ideas, anyone ? Thanks. __________________ JASON CUTTER BLADEART Jason Cutter @ Dr Kwong Yeang Knifemaker, Australia (Matthew 10.16) |
#2
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Me too
Jadon;
I also want to get the answer to this. I read some where that sanding the sheath after fitting introduces grit in the sheath. but I still can't make one the way I want. Some one out there knows the answer. Paul __________________ People who don't like knives....are dull!!! |
#3
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Just a thought guys, but if you are making the sheath in two parts, maybe you can line them with a "non-scuff material of some kind.
__________________ colin@britishblades.com
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#4
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its possible to line the sheath...however most of the results I have heard of have picked up grit anyway over time. (never tried it myself..)....I think it is a thing about Kydex you have to accept. I handrub all my blades and this kind of finish goes well with kydex as you wont see the scratches......
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#5
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kydex woes
Thanks for the feedback guys,
I thought it was just me. Have tried the whole lining thing. I buy scraps of fine leather they use to make jackets. If you do want to try that style, I suggest you first mould the Kydex panels, THEN position the leather / glue them in with contact cement. When you rivet, it really needs to be the final fit, because any further adjustment to the moulding means that some parts could bulge because of the softness / springiness of the leather. I had shocking results from grit getting in the sheath. I still grind the sheaths but I stuff the sheath full of cloth. I use a long, thin strip cut from an old Tshirt. I tried tissue paper but it would come apart and get stuck inside the sheath. That way, the grit and dirt can't get in and you can pull out the cloth like a wick. I suspect the main offender is in fact not abrasive grit but the bits of Kydex that scratch like crazy. Interestingly, I note in my text of making Japanese swords, the maker, advises against using any sandpaper of any sort as the grit could get stuck in the wooden saya (scabbard). Obviously they've considered this over many moons... Yes, Jens, I've also found that 400grit hand rub seems to hide the scuff marks best, I also very lightly oil the inside of the sheath which seems to help. Anyway, I'll try and make a few sheaths where the blade section is only very loosely folded over and the moulded fit is only over the handle area. I'll let you guys know how it goes. Thanks again. Cheers. __________________ JASON CUTTER BLADEART Jason Cutter @ Dr Kwong Yeang Knifemaker, Australia (Matthew 10.16) |
#6
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Give more air space around the blade and do not rivet your sheaths shut.
I use three heavy layers of duct tape over my blades before forming. This provides plenty of airspace between the blade and the kydex. You can stop rattling be pinching the sheath a little on the back side at the tip. This is enough to prevent rattle but not enough to marr the blade. Also use screws to close up your sheaths not rivets. Once a sheath is riveted it is next to impossible to remove any junk out of the sheath. By using screws you can just run a wet cloth through the sheath every now and then to prevent any junk from building up. Many many makers who have been using eyelets (myself included) are now only using screws for this very reason. Lastly, lining a sheath is a super bad idea. Now you will only get junk building up in the liner which is MUCH harder to clean out. |
#7
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Hi..
Pretty much what everyone has said here is Very true... I don't care if you line the sheath with the Fluff off a Duckling's A$$ its still going to scratch the knife... Its not the synthetics scratching its the crap left inside,, or that gets trapped inside.... My sheaths,, Every sheath I make gets at least two high pressure washings.. This insures that Anything in the sheaths is flushed out.. I prefer water over air,, as water will move more dirt and get deeper into the spaces than air will... However I have a therory that some of the dirt is actually,, or can actually be embedded into the sheath during the molding process... Picture a grit of dirt on your blade as you press hot plastic ontop of it.. That grit will get embedded right into the plastic,,making it Impossible to get out... In your case I suggest that you use several more layers of masking tape, and keep your taping/work area VERY clean.. I'm not the cleanest person,, but I make sure my bench is wiped down before taping and keep the taped knife off the bench in a clean area... Using chigaco screws is a good idea, but structurally I find an eyelet is more sound and less prone to problems..If installed properly,,you shouldn't have a problem cleaning out a sheath with eyelets. Screws are great if you want to tear the sheath down... ttyle Eric... |
#8
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kydex
Thanks, guys.
What sort of screws do you use. I have some Chicago screws that I modify for thickness. I use them to attach belt loops, paddles for my holsters. I've never thought of NOT rivetting the sheath shut before. So much for my lateral thinking prowess ! It makes sense to me. I definitely get the impression that scuffing is something I'll just have to accept. Don't use lining. Have some way to clean the sheath. Everything's worth a try. Cheers. __________________ JASON CUTTER BLADEART Jason Cutter @ Dr Kwong Yeang Knifemaker, Australia (Matthew 10.16) |
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blade, knife |
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