MEMBER ITEMS FOR SALE
Custom Knives | Other Knives | General Items
-------------------------------------------
New Posts | New PhotosAll Photos



Go Back   The Knife Network Forums : Knife Making Discussions > Custom Knife Discussion Boards > The Sheath/Holster Makers Forum

The Sheath/Holster Makers Forum This is the place to discuss all forms of sheath and holster making.

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 10-09-2002, 01:32 AM
Jason Cutter Jason Cutter is offline
Living Legend
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 1,903
Question Non-Scuff Kydex sheaths

Hi guys,

Not sure if this is the way to start a thread but here goes.

I make heaps of Kydex sheaths, nicely fitted, but I always have some problem with scuffing the finish on the blade. I allow for a small clearance by wrapping the blade in carefully positioned masking tape (to thicken the blade) when moulding, but I still run into problems.

Ideas, anyone ?

Thanks.


__________________
JASON CUTTER BLADEART
Jason Cutter @ Dr Kwong Yeang
Knifemaker, Australia
(Matthew 10.16)
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 10-10-2002, 03:17 PM
p moore's Avatar
p moore p moore is offline
Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Columbus, MS
Posts: 99
Me too

Jadon;
I also want to get the answer to this. I read some where that sanding the sheath after fitting introduces grit in the sheath. but I still can't make one the way I want. Some one out there knows the answer. Paul


__________________
People who don't like knives....are dull!!!
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 10-10-2002, 03:25 PM
Colin KC's Avatar
Colin KC Colin KC is offline
Master
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Kent, Europe
Posts: 775
Just a thought guys, but if you are making the sheath in two parts, maybe you can line them with a "non-scuff material of some kind.


__________________
colin@britishblades.com
  • NT Freak'n Cow McIver
  • Knock, Knock
  • Who's There?
  • Cowsgo
  • Cowsgo Who?
  • NO, Cows Go Moo!
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 10-10-2002, 04:12 PM
Ansoknives's Avatar
Ansoknives Ansoknives is offline
Founding Member / Moderator
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Farre, Denmark
Posts: 408
Send a message via ICQ to Ansoknives Send a message via AIM to Ansoknives
its possible to line the sheath...however most of the results I have heard of have picked up grit anyway over time. (never tried it myself..)....I think it is a thing about Kydex you have to accept. I handrub all my blades and this kind of finish goes well with kydex as you wont see the scratches......


__________________
Jens Ans?
Visit me at www.ansoknives.com

Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 10-10-2002, 06:30 PM
Jason Cutter Jason Cutter is offline
Living Legend
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 1,903
Lightbulb kydex woes

Thanks for the feedback guys,

I thought it was just me. Have tried the whole lining thing. I buy scraps of fine leather they use to make jackets. If you do want to try that style, I suggest you first mould the Kydex panels, THEN position the leather / glue them in with contact cement. When you rivet, it really needs to be the final fit, because any further adjustment to the moulding means that some parts could bulge because of the softness / springiness of the leather.

I had shocking results from grit getting in the sheath. I still grind the sheaths but I stuff the sheath full of cloth. I use a long, thin strip cut from an old Tshirt. I tried tissue paper but it would come apart and get stuck inside the sheath. That way, the grit and dirt can't get in and you can pull out the cloth like a wick. I suspect the main offender is in fact not abrasive grit but the bits of Kydex that scratch like crazy.

Interestingly, I note in my text of making Japanese swords, the maker, advises against using any sandpaper of any sort as the grit could get stuck in the wooden saya (scabbard). Obviously they've considered this over many moons...

Yes, Jens, I've also found that 400grit hand rub seems to hide the scuff marks best, I also very lightly oil the inside of the sheath which seems to help.

Anyway, I'll try and make a few sheaths where the blade section is only very loosely folded over and the moulded fit is only over the handle area. I'll let you guys know how it goes.

Thanks again. Cheers.


__________________
JASON CUTTER BLADEART
Jason Cutter @ Dr Kwong Yeang
Knifemaker, Australia
(Matthew 10.16)
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 10-11-2002, 05:08 AM
R.W.Clark R.W.Clark is offline
Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Corona, CA
Posts: 46
Give more air space around the blade and do not rivet your sheaths shut.

I use three heavy layers of duct tape over my blades before forming. This provides plenty of airspace between the blade and the kydex. You can stop rattling be pinching the sheath a little on the back side at the tip. This is enough to prevent rattle but not enough to marr the blade.

Also use screws to close up your sheaths not rivets. Once a sheath is riveted it is next to impossible to remove any junk out of the sheath. By using screws you can just run a wet cloth through the sheath every now and then to prevent any junk from building up. Many many makers who have been using eyelets (myself included) are now only using screws for this very reason.

Lastly, lining a sheath is a super bad idea. Now you will only get junk building up in the liner which is MUCH harder to clean out.


__________________
www.rwclarkknives.com
President : California Knifemakers Association
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 10-11-2002, 10:14 PM
Normark Normark is offline
Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Harrow, Ont Canada Eh!
Posts: 32
Hi..

Pretty much what everyone has said here is Very true...

I don't care if you line the sheath with the Fluff off a Duckling's A$$ its still going to scratch the knife...

Its not the synthetics scratching its the crap left inside,, or that gets trapped inside....

My sheaths,, Every sheath I make gets at least two high pressure washings.. This insures that Anything in the sheaths is flushed out..

I prefer water over air,, as water will move more dirt and get deeper into the spaces than air will...

However I have a therory that some of the dirt is actually,, or can actually be embedded into the sheath during the molding process...

Picture a grit of dirt on your blade as you press hot plastic ontop of it..
That grit will get embedded right into the plastic,,making it Impossible to get out...

In your case I suggest that you use several more layers of masking tape, and keep your taping/work area VERY clean..

I'm not the cleanest person,, but I make sure my bench is wiped down before taping and keep the taped knife off the bench in a clean area...

Using chigaco screws is a good idea, but structurally I find an eyelet is more sound and less prone to problems..If installed properly,,you shouldn't have a problem cleaning out a sheath with eyelets.

Screws are great if you want to tear the sheath down...

ttyle

Eric...


__________________
ON/SCENE TACTICAL

Leading the Way in
Quality, Custom Synthetic Sheathing
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 10-13-2002, 06:40 PM
Jason Cutter Jason Cutter is offline
Living Legend
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 1,903
Thumbs up kydex

Thanks, guys.
What sort of screws do you use. I have some Chicago screws that I modify for thickness. I use them to attach belt loops, paddles for my holsters. I've never thought of NOT rivetting the sheath shut before. So much for my lateral thinking prowess ! It makes sense to me.

I definitely get the impression that scuffing is something I'll just have to accept. Don't use lining. Have some way to clean the sheath.

Everything's worth a try.

Cheers.


__________________
JASON CUTTER BLADEART
Jason Cutter @ Dr Kwong Yeang
Knifemaker, Australia
(Matthew 10.16)
Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
blade, knife


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:52 AM.




KNIFENETWORK.COM
Copyright © 2000
? CKK Industries, Inc. ? All Rights Reserved
Powered by ...

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
The Knife Network : All Rights Reserved