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  #1  
Old 05-13-2006, 07:14 PM
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B.Finnigan B.Finnigan is offline
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Hidden tang saw

I have tried alot of different methods and tools for cutting hidden tang slots and I was not impressed with any of them. So I built one and it works great! It's 1/4" 1095 and eight inches OA in length. The only tools I used were a bandsaw, drill press, belt grinder and a triangle file. The bronze handle was cut on the lathe but any chunk of mild steel or aluminum rod will work. I will be making two more, an 1/8" and 3/16" and may use wood for the handles on them. The blade is brass piened onto the handle and the teeth were all cut by hand with a 1/4" simonds triangle file. After HTing the blade I re-touched the edges on the teeth with a small 1/4" square ceramic EDM rod.



The test cut was not only accurate but fast. After drilling a 3/8" start hole I had this much done in less then five minutes. The saw also works upside down just as good.


Last edited by B.Finnigan; 07-06-2006 at 05:40 PM.
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  #2  
Old 05-13-2006, 08:13 PM
Tony Graves Tony Graves is offline
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Brent

One of the neatest things about this knifemaking obsession is making/modifying your own tools!!

What a beauty.
You have made this to cut on the pull stroke. My favorite most accurate saws cut in this fashion.

You also used 1/4" thick 1095. How tight does this fit a 1/4 tang? I guess I am really asking is how much "set" did you gave the teeth in this saw blade?

And by the way, where is the SHEATH???? Well.....maybe a saw needs a wooden scabbard.

Tony
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  #3  
Old 05-13-2006, 08:59 PM
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B.Finnigan B.Finnigan is offline
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I am not sure if I understand your question. The 1095 is machinist oversized and the teeth are the same width if that is what you are asking? A sheath?.........Hmmmmmm did not think of that but I will come up with something.
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Old 05-13-2006, 09:38 PM
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Raymond Richard Raymond Richard is offline
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Brent, your quite the machinest!


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  #5  
Old 05-13-2006, 09:44 PM
Tony Graves Tony Graves is offline
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Brent

Ok, no problem. I might have made that about as clear as mud.

"Set" in the tooth of a saw blade is the amount of offset each tooth has to keep the blade from binding in the kerf. The teeth are sharpened and then offset. Your saw probably has no set and cuts a kerf the same width as the blade. Since it was made to do the job of tang slots it probably won't bind in that limited cut and may not even need any.

I was just wondering, because with set in the teeth of your blade it would cut a kerf slightly wider that 1/4 inch.

I want to make ones with no set to fit 1/8 and 3/16 tangs. I am hoping they will cut the limited amounts I require without binding. Since yours does maybe mine will also.

I am assuming your 1/4" thick sawblade makes a kerf that a 1/4" tang fits snugly into? Is your sawblade tapered?


Thank you, Tony
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  #6  
Old 05-13-2006, 10:25 PM
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B.Finnigan B.Finnigan is offline
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OK, the kerf, no there is none but it doesn't bind and the slot is 1/4". After surface grinding it the machinist's oversize is just about gone so it is right at 1/4". The depth of the stroke is so short that just the slight side-to-side slop while sawing keeps it from binding.

Thanks Ray! I have never made any type of saw before and this is one I really needed. I posted the pics because it is a very easy (but time consuming) project that anyone could do. I used the lathe to knurl and ring the handle for a little better grip but it is not needed, just a little "bling" thrown in.
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Old 05-14-2006, 09:32 AM
Ron Hicks Ron Hicks is offline
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Have you seen a Handle Broach ?
http://www.riversidemachine.net/item561596.ctlg
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  #8  
Old 05-14-2006, 09:26 PM
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cavetech cavetech is offline
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Very nice saw. Accurate tang holes are difficult.


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  #9  
Old 05-14-2006, 09:55 PM
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B.Finnigan B.Finnigan is offline
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Thanks! I had to knock off a bit of the edge on the teeth, it was a little too hungary for the softer woods.

Ron, I remember seeing the tang scrapers on Al's site. I guess my saw is really a linear multi-bladed scraper. I get little micro curls of wood instead of sawdust. The scraper would be much easier to make (trust me).
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  #10  
Old 05-15-2006, 02:30 AM
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hammerdownnow hammerdownnow is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raymond Richard
Brent, your quite the machinest!
I agree with Ray. One of these days you are going to come up with something to make us a million.


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  #11  
Old 05-15-2006, 10:59 AM
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B.Finnigan B.Finnigan is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hammerdownnow
I agree with Ray. One of these days you are going to come up with something to make us a million.
That would be cool...... then we could keep making knives for another year!
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  #12  
Old 05-15-2006, 11:12 PM
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GHEzell GHEzell is offline
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That is awesome. I need to make a set, too. The only thing I'd like to see is a closeup of the teeth, is the tooth edge the full thickness of the blade (like a single-edged file)?

Now to make one that will cut a curved hole through that pesky stag taper... that would sell!
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  #13  
Old 05-16-2006, 01:00 AM
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B.Finnigan B.Finnigan is offline
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The teeth are the full width of the saw. We will have to put our heads together (pooling our ignorance) and come up with an articulating spring tensioned one that will cut curved radiuses. I will do the teeth you do the articulating spring tensioner.
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  #14  
Old 05-16-2006, 03:39 AM
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hammerdownnow hammerdownnow is offline
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I have had this pic saved forever. I wish I could remember who made it so I could give them credit. I thought it was really cool with the fat stubby handle and that it was made with a carrage bolt with the nut tapped for an allen screw to fix the blade.


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  #15  
Old 05-16-2006, 09:07 AM
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B.Finnigan B.Finnigan is offline
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I like it! Very simple and creative. The only drawback is the scroll saw blades don't come in the thicknesses we use for handles/tangs.
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