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Custom Projects A place to meet for special project threads. |
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#46
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Just sand the crap out of it VERY SLOWLY (to keep it cool).
When you mount them, avoid pins--go with Loveless fasteners or Corbys, maybe even flared tubes. You might even place that hardware a bit closer to the ends of the scales than you might with other stuff. A rock solid mechanical bond will keep them straight once you get them mounted. __________________ Andy Garrett https://www.facebook.com/GarrettKnives?ref=hl Charter Member - Kansas Custom Knifemaker's Association www.kansasknives.org "Drawing your knife from its sheath and using it in the presence of others should be an event complete with oos, ahhs, and questions." |
#47
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I had the same problem thats the only reason mine is not finished yet. Thanks for the how to Andy.
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#48
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Mine's through heat treating.
I'm going WAAAAY out of my comfort zone with this one. I'm still not certain how I will afix etched damascus bolsters to a finished blade without it looking screwy. I'm thinking domed end brass pins for bolster and the bone scales. __________________ Andy Garrett https://www.facebook.com/GarrettKnives?ref=hl Charter Member - Kansas Custom Knifemaker's Association www.kansasknives.org "Drawing your knife from its sheath and using it in the presence of others should be an event complete with oos, ahhs, and questions." |
#49
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Andy, If you have pin holes in the tang just use hidden pins, Thats what I do on my Bird-N-Trout III's. Just drill down into the inside of the bolsters 1/16" to 3/32" holes for 1/16" pins Make sure that the hiles are exact. Then Put soulder onto the insideof the bolsters and redrill by hand to clean up the holes. Next cut the length of the 1/16" pins where there will not be any gap with both bolsters and pins in place. Wrap a wet paper towel around the bladeclamp in a vise and just heat the bolsters up enough as to let the soulder flow (note: you may have to use avery little flux on the pre souldered bolsters), Once you see the soulder start to flow clamp togather with a heavy pair of pliers until the soulder cools and sets. Clean up any excess soulder then finish as required.
Hope that this helps you along. Cutris Wilson __________________ Curtis Wilson Wilson's Custom Knives, Engraving, and Scrimshaw |
#50
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That's a great method Curtis, but the problem is that the bolsters will require a different etched finish than the blade they will be flush with.
I'm going to do some spot epoxy and superglued pins to grind everything down to exact dimensions. Then I'll separate all those parts, etch as desired and reassemble with nice domed pins (a technique I've never tried but have the tools for). Peening will be out of the question, but I'll make sure things are snug. __________________ Andy Garrett https://www.facebook.com/GarrettKnives?ref=hl Charter Member - Kansas Custom Knifemaker's Association www.kansasknives.org "Drawing your knife from its sheath and using it in the presence of others should be an event complete with oos, ahhs, and questions." |
#51
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Hey Guys been really busy. Just got caught up reading all the posts.
Here's one I finished for a customer (Seems to fit this Kith) Handle is Sperm Whale Tooth. Very Cool Stuff. |
#52
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A lesson learned....
My knife is all but finished. All that remains is doming my pins (first time I've done this) and carefully putting it together. I tried scrimshaw for the first time, but will have to sand it off and leave the scales white. You see, I didn't heed the warning in both scrimshaw books that I own--bone is a bad canvas for scrim. It's too porus and too hard. The work is harder and the product looks terrible. I'll try again on some proper ivory someday. So, I will easily make the deadline and should be posting pics as soon as I can find a couple hours to assemble and photo my entry. How goes the progress elsewhere? BTW Andy, you need to make another one of those and throw it in the hat! Very slick! __________________ Andy Garrett https://www.facebook.com/GarrettKnives?ref=hl Charter Member - Kansas Custom Knifemaker's Association www.kansasknives.org "Drawing your knife from its sheath and using it in the presence of others should be an event complete with oos, ahhs, and questions." |
#53
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My name is John Scruby, I am a hobbyist maker and I live over the pond but I would love to join in if there is no objection. I love KITHs and like working with Bone and Antler.
ATVB John __________________ Gold is for the mistress - silver for the maid - Copper for the craftsman cunning in his trade. "Good!" said the Baron, sitting in his hall But iron - cold iron is master of them all. Rudyard Kipling (1865 - 1936) |
#54
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Welcome John.
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#55
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I am going to have to drop out of this KITH due to health reasons. Sorry and hope to have this taken care of by the next KITH. James
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#56
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Finally getting started on my entry. Given the size of my last KITH entry, I'm thinking of making a patch knife with a simple leather sheath. Maybe some basic tooling. It's looking like deer leg bone for the handle, with some rawhide wrap. I might even put a bronze accent on it, or maybe copper, or maybe iron - I can't decide right now. I probably won't figure it all out until I actually start to put it all together anyway.
__________________ Kurt Huhn pipecrafter@pipecrafter.com http://www.pipecrafter.com |
#57
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Hey Kurt, I'm really enjoying your last KITH knife.
I got my blade heat treated. I'm going with a small EDC that I have had in my head for some time. |
#58
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Well, I'm done early (if you can believe that), and here it is--a semi tradionalesque Japanese tanto.
The blade is a Nicholson Black Diamond Mill Bastard (file). I etched and hand sanded and then handsanded with 600g actually using FC as a lube. The end result is a deep dark luster almost like bluing it. A dry buff, a coat of Turtle Wax, and then some Ren wax, seals in the color. Though it was hard to photograph, there is a traditional wavy hamon in the blade. The scales are cow bone which I attempted my first scrimshaw on (cherry blossoms and kanji). Well, I should have listened to the experts in the scrim books I have, because bone is a terrible canvas for scrimming--way too porous--what a mess! I sanded it off and desided to buff both sides with my dirty buffing wheel I use for steel. This gave the scales some texture and color as the plain white was just a monument to my scrim failure. The bolsters are Thunderforged damascus (scrap from a very old billet I used before discovering Matt Walker). I gave them a VERY deep etch for topography and them buffed them down to what I think is the most attractive way to finish a good pattern weld. This knife is WAAAAY out of my comfort zone and represents a few firsts for me: first dovetailed bolsters (not a fan of making bolsters anyway), first domed pins (easy but..., why?) and first tradional tanto profile (my handles NEVER curve this way). But hey..., that's the idea with a KITH, right? It's just a hair under 11'' OA. There are many flaws, but I learned plenty. I hope whoever gets stuck with it enjoys my effort. __________________ Andy Garrett https://www.facebook.com/GarrettKnives?ref=hl Charter Member - Kansas Custom Knifemaker's Association www.kansasknives.org "Drawing your knife from its sheath and using it in the presence of others should be an event complete with oos, ahhs, and questions." Last edited by Andrew Garrett; 07-01-2009 at 09:09 AM. |
#59
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Sorry for the slow response fellas.
John, welcome to the KITH by all means! Be sure to read the first post carefully and have a great time with it! James, sorry to see anyone drop out, but health comes first. Whatever it is, I hope it works out for the best. Good luck. __________________ Andy Garrett https://www.facebook.com/GarrettKnives?ref=hl Charter Member - Kansas Custom Knifemaker's Association www.kansasknives.org "Drawing your knife from its sheath and using it in the presence of others should be an event complete with oos, ahhs, and questions." |
#60
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Andy,
All I can say is WOW--that is some knife! |
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blade, forge, forging, knife, knives |
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