cutting brass

[Mike Routen]

Howdy all,

I recently picked up a 4.5" angle grinder and was wondering if I could use a cutoff wheel for cutting brass for the guard? Would this need to be a wheel that was not used for cutting steel? I guess I'm concerned about contaminating my steel and/or forge if I use the same cutoff wheel for the brass and the steel.

Thanks,

- Mike

[Geno]

Hey Mike,
It will work but is VERY grabby.
If it is very thick, use a saw.
I have a nasty scar on my belly from one of those wheels getting stuck, it almost gutted me.
The brass contamination assumption is correct, it will crap up your steel work stuff.(zinc)
If you use the wheel, just score it and bend/break it.
Cut most of the way through, like 2/3 deep, then bend it to rupture there.The wheel will grab less and save time too.
Hope it helps.
Be careful,Boy!:confused:

[Mike Routen]

Geno,

Thanks for the warning! I'll either use a hacksaw or like you said, score it and then break it.

Since there is the chance of getting zinc into the steel/forge, I'll probably just stick with the hacksaw.

Blessings,

- Mike

[Jason Cutter]

The brass will also contaminate your buffs and cross-grind into adjacent material like bone, stag and woods and go a funny colour later. Some of the reasons to go for 416SS ...

Brass just seems to go gummy. NS is worse, and the absolute king of gummy is the 3-series stainless steels 303, 316 etc.

I didn't answer your question, did I ? :confused:

[Mike Routen]

Jason -

No, however, you are answering questions that I don't even know enough to ask yet!

I appeciate the information since I don't have any experience in this area. So far the two knives I have completed did not have bolsters or guards. The next one that I've been asked to make will require a guard as it is a small bowie.

I was going to use brass for the guard because it is my impression that brass would be about the easiest material to shape and to file to fit around the tang. Can you tell me if 416SS is much more difficult in that area? I don't have much in the way of machinery yet, so I'll be doing a lot of hand filing. I was also thinking that a piece of damascus could be a nice contrast to a high carbon blade with a dramatic hammon.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers,

- Mike

[Colin KC]

Peter,
Damascus shouldn't be too bad, as you'll receive it in an annealed state

[ragnik]

Mike,

i just got some brass and did my first attmepts on bolsters with it! I used a hacksaw with no problems at all. I did use a new blade on the hack saw before I started so I am sure that helped!!

Ross

[bulldogsblades]

You might look at going to harbor freight and purchasing an air body saw. Works great for cutting brass and it?s a clean cut. The saw is only $19.95.


Bulldog

[Jason Cutter]

416SS is KING !!

Grinds, sands, cuts, polishes - BEAUTIFULLLLL ... :cool:

Easier in all respects than brass and NS.

But for the same reasons that it is easier to work with, some makers have said that it is possibly not as strong ??? So its is not as good for hard use knives ??? :confused: Personally, I haven't even been able to break one of my knives with a Micarta guard, let alone 416SS, so I'll keep using it. Jason.

[Osprey Guy]

I love 416SS!

As Jason strongly stated, it is indeed a pleasure with which to work...and it yields a marvelous finish...and great color (of silver-tone).

I had been using NS for a while for most of my embellishment add-ons, inlays, etc and found it so darn gummy...what a pain in the butt! Then I discovered the joys of 416SS and have been completely sold on it ever since.

Small wonder why the engravers all say how it's their favorite material to engrave...


Dennis Greenbaum

Yeah Baby!