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  #121  
Old 06-21-2017, 05:58 AM
WNC Goater WNC Goater is offline
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Originally Posted by PoolQs View Post
Thanks Goater for That James McClendon video link. Man-O-Man, do I have some crazy ideas now !!!

I know that you will have no issues with that blade. It will be a prize worth owning.
You're welcome but thanks to James for the excellent video. I've watched a number of his videos now. Interesting and informative & proof there's never a "best" way or some magical tool, but rather the skill of the craftsman that produces the end product.


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  #122  
Old 06-21-2017, 07:52 AM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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Well, that's disappointing. What compounds did you use? Were your buffs ever used for anything other than those compounds?

The only time I ever got a result similar to yours was on a block that had too much natural oil in it when it was stabilized but I never thought of walnut as oily ....


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  #123  
Old 06-21-2017, 09:53 AM
WNC Goater WNC Goater is offline
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Originally Posted by Ray Rogers View Post
Well, that's disappointing. What compounds did you use? Were your buffs ever used for anything other than those compounds?

The only time I ever got a result similar to yours was on a block that had too much natural oil in it when it was stabilized but I never thought of walnut as oily ....
Confiscated a fresh new buff from my shop and took it home. Tried some green rouge but the results were so ugly I never tried anything else. Looked muddy and the pores of the wood held the compound. Ended up having to clean off with, don't remember, maybe alcohol or something.
With raw wood I get a better finish pre buffing just going through finer grits then a fine Scotch Brite wheel, or 0000 steel wool, that's even before any oil.

Here is where I got the wood and on this particular page, look down about halfway about finishing his wood. Two methods involve oil and the third involves CA glue. (??) I thought that was the point of stabilizing. (?)

http://burlsource.us/stabilized-wood-info/

He even cautions about buffing and notes that "Coarser grained wood with larger pores tends to get clogged with buffing compound."



Don't know, maybe just the walnut or that particular piece. K&G stabilizes for $14 a pound IIRC. That's post treatment weights. Maybe I'll send some and give it a try or even try a lighter wood with tighter grain like maple.

Anyway, I looked at my little KITH this morning and the wood looks nice with the one coat of BLO. I'll get some pictures up.


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  #124  
Old 06-21-2017, 11:38 AM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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I not an expert on the hundreds of different compounds that exist but I'm not familiar with any green compound that works with wood. As far as I know they're all for metal.

I do know that White Diamond and No Scratch Pink - both available from K&G - are intended for wood and work wonderfully on stabilized wood. Use a sewn buff with the White Diamond and a loose buff with the Pink and I would expect your results will improve dramatically. After all, one of the main reasons to use stabilized wood is so that you don't have to use any type of oil, varnish, or other finishing products on it...


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  #125  
Old 06-25-2017, 07:04 PM
WNC Goater WNC Goater is offline
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Okay it's finished. The "Quail" one of my regular B&T knives. 1/8" 0-1 steel with rounded spine, stabilized Claro Walnut scales dovetailed into brass bolster with brass pins and lanyard tube. Blade is about 4", OAL is 7 3/4". Custom leather sheath. Sorry, have no means of hollow grinding so this is a flat grind.
Now what do I do with it?






And a sheath.


Nope, it isn't perfect. I've yet to make a perfect knife, but it's right purdy, IMNSHO!


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  #126  
Old 06-26-2017, 12:41 PM
Johan Nel Johan Nel is offline
 
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Yes, I think it is quite a nice knife too! Well done.
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  #127  
Old 06-26-2017, 01:39 PM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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I agree, that looks terrific! Now I need the 'official' picture. Take a pic of the knife and sheath against a plain background in horizontal format. Include a ruler in the picture. Then email it to me at knives@rayrogers.com

This KITH is shaping up to be one of the better ones ....


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  #128  
Old 06-26-2017, 04:09 PM
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BCROB BCROB is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WNC Goater View Post
Okay it's finished. The "Quail" one of my regular B&T knives. 1/8" 0-1 steel with rounded spine, stabilized Claro Walnut scales dovetailed into brass bolster with brass pins and lanyard tube. Blade is about 4", OAL is 7 3/4". Custom leather sheath. Sorry, have no means of hollow grinding so this is a flat grind.
Now what do I do with it?






And a sheath.


Nope, it isn't perfect. I've yet to make a perfect knife, but it's right purdy, IMNSHO!

nice.......


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  #129  
Old Yesterday, 11:36 PM
jimmontg jimmontg is offline
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Humor coming.

As for compounds for taking down stabilized wood I suggest the diamond compounds. On Dymondwood it comes out to a shiny lustrous finish with some 5,000 diamond on a slow moving (550 rpm) cotton buff. Note Stabilized or Dymondwood which is essentially the same thing and I jump from 800 grit sandpaper to 1500 grit diamond buff to 5000 diamond. Wipe with alcohol after. You can buy pure 10,000 grit diamond dust and wet your buff too. I have used diamond to get a small scratch out of the blade after finishing and slipping with the sharpener.

Yeah, I'm the diamond crazy guy cause I do not have a buffer so I use 3" buffing wheels on a drill press at 550 rpms. I'm in Las Cruces, NM now and will be going rattlesnake hunting this weekend in the dark. Makes nice, charge high bux sheaths.

Need to get some knee high boots though I think or.
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  #130  
Old Today, 08:01 AM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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JIM you suggested the diamond stuff and I love it use it all the time....Never on stabilized wood tho usually for that its the white diamond coupond (NOT the dimond stuff your talking about)
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