Another NooB question

[JawJacker]

OK another Noob gets the fever. I don't know how it happen I was just sharpening knives in my shop for the wife and BOOM it hit me, bet I could make one of these

I ordered a 3' stick of 2in X 1/4 of 1075 ready to work on with hand tools

I cant swing 3k for a KMG right now so I'm looking @ a Grizzly G1015 2x72 or the

Kalamazoo 2FSM 2" Sander Multi-position vertical or horizontal
- 2" x 48" belt, Vertical or Horizontal Position
- /2 HP motor, 3450 RPM, direct drive, 5" contact wheel

Any advice?? I have searched the forum and think the Grizzly is the way to go to start.

As for the forge I think the (paint can forge) is the way to go to start out any advice there?????

[Bowman]

I'm sure you'll get some good advice shortly. My newb input is that 1/4" is pretty thick and is generally used on larger knives, so keep your design in mind with that thickness. I have bevelled two knives with hand files so it takes much longer than with a decent grinder. From what I hear, the 2 x 72 is the way to go. As for the forge, I just built one to use with a propane/MAPP gas bottle and I am about to fire it up tonight. A paint can forge should be fine for small knives, I would think. Best of luck and keep us posted!

[Ray Rogers]

As Bowman said, 1/4" is very thick for a knife but it's immensely thick for a first knife. Give yourself a fair chance and get some 1/8" 1080 or 1084 and make a few 4" skinners or utility blades before you tackle that 1/4" thick 10" long (or more) survival/zombie killer/next to useless monstrosity that I'm guessing is crawling around in your imagination. Anyway, that's what I was thinking when I made my first one.

I like the Grizzly grinder. The Kalamazoo is made better and it can be set up for variable speed but, other than that, it is the same basic design and has the same limitations but it can cost a bit more or even a lot more. The Griz is a tank, you'll have a use for it in your shop even after you have a $3k grinder. It comes out of the box ready to work and it's very powerful. I used mine today, as a matter of fact. I prefer the Griz for grinding flat ground blades, especially large ones.

Welcome to the forums. Fill out your profile - you might have a knife maker in your area but no one will know until you fill it out ...

[JawJacker]

Thanks for the responses, Keep you posted

[Doug Lester]

I would look into a Coote grinder. It's similar but will run a little more but it's also more flexable. It's also not direct drive like the Griz and you will have to find your own motor. I managed to find one used. Take a look at it but I have to say that I have met a smith who earned his Journeymans and Masters stamps with two Grizzlys.

Doug

[Crex]

Have to agree with everyone else on the 1/4" stock. Lot of steel to move or remove to get to a blade geometry that you can work successfully in a paint can forge. Big chunk of steel will suck the heat out of a small chambered forge, making it difficult (not impossible) to work. Alternative would be to cut the bar down lenghtwise so that you have 1/4" x 1/2" strips that you can forge out flat to an 1/8" bar and work from there. More than enough material for a blade once you learn some good forging techniques. The steel is there you just have to move it where you want it. You are going to have to cut up the bar anyway, you'll find that large of a chunk of steel (full bar) will overwhelm a paintcan forge just from shear size and weight.
The Griz is a beast right out of the box (as said), it does run fast and intimidates beginners. It should, it's a serious piece of equipment that will eat your lunch if you get "sloppy" in the head. Opt out for the 10" wheel....you won't regret it. Also you get a turning spindal shaft on the other side for wire or buffing wheels........even more scary due to the "snatch factor". It will get her done and become a workhorse in the shop either way.

[JawJacker]

Crex, Can you order the 10inch wheel installed? looks like you have to purchase in addition too. Thanks

Think I may purchase thinner stock to start with, thanks for the advice. MUCH to learn here been reading here for days.

Doug I'll take a look at the Coote

[Ray Rogers]

You can't order the 10" wheel installed on the Griz but you're talking one nut to tighten. I don't think the 8" wheel comes installed either. Either way, it's not a big deal - assembling the Griz is much easier than assembling a tricycle at Christmas ...

[JawJacker]

Why do people seem to want that 10'' wheel over the 8'' what is the main for both??? I can only see the the bevel angle, but are there any othe reasons?????

[Doug Lester]

On the Griz I have heard that there is some clearance problems with the 8" drive wheel on the motor side.

Doug

[AUBE]

I have Griz and agree with what everyone else says...its a real workhorse. The only problem I had with mine in several years of fulltime use was the original switch got too hot and melted. But you can pick up one of those for a few bucks.

Mine came with the 8" wheel installed. I bought the 10". As Ray said its just 1 nut and a friction fit to replace the wheel. Just use a rubber mallet to tap around the edge of the wheel to slowly knock it off. Took me maybe 5mins.

Yes there are clearance problems with the 8" wheel....and even with the 10" wheel the motor can get in the way sometimes when grinding with the contact wheel section. I flat grind the vast majority of my blades so it wasn't a problem but if you plan to hollow grind then it might bug you.

Most of the time when you buy cheaper tools the motors seem underpowered. It may say 1hp but it might run like 1/2hp. Thats not true with the Griz...its runs very strong.

Another option is to build your own. If you scrounge you can build one for $400-500ish. The main benefit to this method is its easy to modify. You can add additional tooling arms, work rests, etc.

And heres another vote for using thinner steel. Nothing wrong with 1/4" but usually people mess up their first few blades and you'll have a lot more work in a 1/4" piece than an 1/8" piece.

[Ray Rogers]

The downside of using the 10" wheel on the Griz is that it increases the belt speed which is already pretty fast. The larger wheel will also reduce the torque slightly but the Griz has torque to spare so that shouldn't really matter much. If you don't plan to do a lot of hollow grinding then there's no need for the 10" wheel........

[JawJacker]

Great info Thanks.
It seems we have a huge gap after the Grizzly (price wise) then you jump to 2k or so. I may lean towards building my own, I'm in the Air Force Res and I have access to a huge metal shop on base to make whatever, so thats an option. I have a 1hp 1750 in my shop now maybe I can use that. I think I still need to explore some more options, I would rather buy a complete unit but, Im open to whatever.

As far as 1/4 steel I get it. Im still waiting for it to arrive. Im looking local for thinner stuff Hate paying that shipping.