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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need. |
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#1
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Ban Saw where to find a multi speed
I'm looking for a ban saw with a multi speed To cut steel and wood the normal things when u make knifes. Where can I get one, I've looked on Craigslist, peenny savers, does anyone know where I can find one new or used?
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#2
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I have one of these , it has served me well for over ten years. I removed it from the base and attached it to the bench in a vertical position. It comes with a small table for vertical use.
http://www.harborfreight.com/horizon...saw-93762.html __________________ American Bladesmiths Society Apprentice Smith Work Smarter Not Harder www.OliverKnives.com |
#3
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Quote:
I have the same one. It is a workhorse for sure. You would definitely want to make sure you pick up some bimetal blades too though. The regular low cost blades from HF or home depot don't last long at all. HF sells a bimetal that has been a pretty good performer for the money. |
#4
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I also have that same saw although mine was made by Grizzly. That same design is made under many names. But, that saw is designed to cut metal - you won't find one saw that cuts both metal and wood for any kind of price you would be willing to pay. Metal cutting saws will cut wood but the sawdust gums them up pretty badly due to the oily film the blade needs for cutting metal. Also, you won't find proper wood cutting blades that fit a metal saw so you won't be able to do the precise kind of cutting you'd do with a wood saw such as slicing thin sheets of wood off of a block or cutting curves. Finally, it will cut small pieces of wood but thick stuff will be very impractical.
A metal cutting bandsaw is one of the most useful tools you can have in a knife shop and most all of us own one of these saws as you see in the link above. If we have the money, most of us eventually also buy a wood bandsaw but until then cutting the wood by hand is far easier than cutting metal by hand. Bottom line: there are several important differences in metal saws and wood saws, it's not just about the blade. There is no single saw that will do a good job on both for any price you would want to pay so find a way to get both types of saw ..... |
#5
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dwane do you have some pic's of how yours is mounted on the work bench.I had a seat for mine that sat over it.I have had a few surgeries and won't mine to be up higher so it is easier to work with.
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#6
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I did about the same with mine when I first got it over 14 years ago. Right out of the crate I took a hacksaw to it and then mounted it on a flimsy table I built:
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#7
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I needed mine higher too , it was killin my back.
You can see it on the left side of the picture here. If you need a better pic , let me know. I just used a piece of 3" channel , the two existing bolts , and put two lag screws in the bench. __________________ American Bladesmiths Society Apprentice Smith Work Smarter Not Harder www.OliverKnives.com Last edited by DwaneOliver; 04-26-2012 at 07:25 PM. |
#8
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Thanks for the info, I'll check them out
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#9
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Nice duck gun on the wall Oliver
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#10
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thanks Ray and Dwayne That helps a lot.Dwane does the angle iron go all the way to the floor for support or is it just bolted to the bench.Ray is yours hooked to the wall as well as the table.I am getting ready for shoulder surgery and need it right at shoulder level so my arms can work straight in front of me.
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#11
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Most of my equipment is mounted higher up than usual too. The saw is bolted to the wood table by two bolts through holes I drilled in the cast iron base of the saw. The original on/off switch is mounted in a sheet of kydex which I form fitted to the front of the sawed off cast iron saw base. Finally, the flimsy wood table itself is screwed to the wall and, after that, it isn't flimsy at all any more ....
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#12
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thanks Ray this looks like a sat prodject.
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blade, design, iron, knife, kydex, steel |
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