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Knife Making Discussions A place to discuss issues related to all aspects of the custom knifemaking community. |
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#1
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2nd hollow grind?
was hoping for some Criticism on this blade, any comments are apriciated THX
other side [IMG] http://www.internetbusinesslinks.net...omega/scan.jpg[/IMG] thanks for looking Bill:evil __________________ Cowards die many times before their deaths; the valiant never taste death but once. --Shakespeare: Julius Caesar |
#2
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Picture isn't too sharp so it might be hard to make any real accurate assessment of what you have there, Bill. For instance, if you hadn't said it was a hollow grind I never would have guessed. So, maybe the hollow part isn't hollow enough yet.
The blade appears rough and unfinished - and that's fine at this point - but even so, what I can see of the grind lines should be straighter and better defined than they appear to be. Plunge cut looks pretty good at this stage. Can't see the second picture with the other side of the blade. This has nothing to do with the hollow grind but that pivot hole sure is in a strange location. Is that working for you there? |
#3
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thanks ray, what do you mean straighter gring lines? yea the piviot hole looks odd in the pic (kinda lopsided) but on the blade its in a good spot for the handle (pretty sura atleast) right now all folders are an experiment to find the best ways. the blade is real ruff just started it today but wanted to know if it looked like it was headed in the right direction.
Bill:evil __________________ Cowards die many times before their deaths; the valiant never taste death but once. --Shakespeare: Julius Caesar |
#4
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Yeah, I guess your headed in the right direction since it does resemble a blade.
As for the grind lines, I meant they don't appear very distinct in the picture. Perhaps they are fine, but I can't tell. And, the grind looks more like a flat grind than a hollow grind. Here's one of mine (not finished yet) for comparison: You can see the dark area where the grind is and the sharp line that marks the area where the grind meets the flat of the blade. My line is trying to follow the curve of the blade so it isn't straight either but it could be and I think it should be on your blade. See how the pivot hole is about centered on this blade? I admit a pivot hole doesn't have to be precisely centered for the knife to work properly but yours is so near the back edge of the blade it's difficult for me to understand how that could work out for you. I'd be very interested in seeing the results when this knife is finished ......... |
#5
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Ray, I'm curious. Is the bearing in that blade press-fit (as in freeze to shrink, fit then let expand)?
-Frank J Warner __________________ --Frank J Warner Happiness is tight gibs and a flat platen. http://www.franksknives.com/ |
#6
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Frank,
Nothing that elaborate is needed. All I do is make the bearing about .004 larger than the hole in the blade and press it in with an arbor press. This process shears off the extra material and doesn't seem to overly stress the bearing - I've never had one come loose or wear out and I've been using them for at least 8 years now. After the bearing is pressed in and ground flush with the sides of the blade, I ream the center hole to the desired diameter. With the blade secured on a flat table this last step also guarantees that the pivot hole is perpendicular to the surface of the blade .... |
#7
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with the last folder i made the pivot hole was centered so it locked in the back but also locked in the half open/closed position.
so i figured this way that wont happen and when heat treated its not like that little bit of steel will break at the end right? Bill:evil __________________ Cowards die many times before their deaths; the valiant never taste death but once. --Shakespeare: Julius Caesar |
#8
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Hmmmm, that's interesting. If a liner lock gets stopped in the half open position that should mean the geometry at the back end of your blade is out of whack.
The cure for that is to be sure that, once the lock is released and the blade starts to fold, the bottom of the blade passes over the tip of the lock and prevents it from moving back into the locking position. More important, once the back of the blade is over the tip of the lock the bottom of the blade must be shaped so that it continues to cover the tip of the lock as the blade is closed. Otherwise, the lock will spring into the locked position again somewhere along the way and foul things up which is what it sounds like happened to you before. I've drawn a lock bar onto the picture of my blade above, you can see how I will cut into the back of my blade to make a notch to receive the lock bar. You'll notice that the area around my pivot hole is pretty much equidistant in every direction - basically, a circle. Cutting the notch gets the tip of the bar inside the circle. The fact that it is a circle means the bar will stay under the blade as the blade closes, which is what you want it to do. The black dot at the end of the bar is the detent ball. As the blade closes the side of the blade will ride on that ball ...... |
#9
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drawing the lock there really helped what kind of problems do you think ill run into with my pivot hole?
Bill:evil __________________ Cowards die many times before their deaths; the valiant never taste death but once. --Shakespeare: Julius Caesar |
#10
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hows this look i "cut out" the notch for the lock and for the stop pin and left some "steel" on top of the lock (do i need that)
Bill:evil __________________ Cowards die many times before their deaths; the valiant never taste death but once. --Shakespeare: Julius Caesar Last edited by Omega; 01-01-2004 at 07:04 PM. |
#11
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That's funny! Your knife looks nearly identical to this one that I made about 8 years ago:
Even funnier is that this knife of mine has exactly the same problem we are discussing - the blade locks at the half open position. OK, first: your last picture is too big and forces people to scroll across the screen to see it. Trim the blank space from your pictures so that the subject is all you see and then be sure to size it so that it is less tha 8" wide. I usually use 5" wide. Second: what kind of problems will you have? Well, that depends on which knife you're talking about. In the drawing you provided the pivot hole appears to be in a significantly different location than the pivot hole in the first picture of your blade. So, on the drawing probably no problem but it's very, very close - not much meat at the bottom of the blade to cover the end of the lock but it looks like it would work. On the real blade, you might fail to cover the lock, sure doesn't look like it will but hard to say for sure from here. But, the pivot is at the bottom of the blade which means the blade will travel in a very eccentric arc. The handle you drew doesn't look wide enough to contain the top rear portion of the blade when the knife is closed. The easiest way to test this stuff is just make a cardboard cutout of the blade and handle. Be sure to size them very accurately. Stick a pin or nail through the cardboard as a pivot and be sure the pin goes through the center of the area where the real pivot is expected to go. It's pretty easy to see where the pivot should be when you do this ....... Last edited by Ray Rogers; 01-01-2004 at 06:57 PM. |
#12
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ok ray pic fixed (still new to scanners and all)
people will think i stole the design for the knife from you the drawing is an attempt to implament your suggestions, but i see what you mean about the bottom of the blade not having alot of meat. what did you mean though about the real blade not "covering the lock"? im going to try the cardboard and see what happens thanks for the help ray i know it can be a real pain sometimes so i just want to say i appreciate the help as do all us newbies Bill:evil __________________ Cowards die many times before their deaths; the valiant never taste death but once. --Shakespeare: Julius Caesar |
#13
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Awesome idea Ray the cardboard worked great (alot better than paper) i even cut the lock the see how that would word and every thing works great! so now all thats at doubt is if there is too little metal at the back of the knife (the real one) and if it'll be too weak.
Bill __________________ Cowards die many times before their deaths; the valiant never taste death but once. --Shakespeare: Julius Caesar Last edited by Omega; 01-01-2004 at 07:55 PM. |
#14
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Now the drawing is not showing up. Did you change the name of the picture when you saved it after you trimmed it? If so, you need to edit your post and change the name of the image.
Anyway, about the not covering the lock statement, I just meant that their might be a position other than fully open where the lock might be able to get past the blade - the same problem that we started out discussion here. In the cardboard model for instance it looks like this position might allow the lock to slip out from under the blade: But, maybe not. Just be sure that the tip of the lock on your cardboard model stays under the blade as it rotates until it's supposed to come out. Remember too that the cardboard will only tell the truth if the holes are in the same place as the real holes in your blade and in the handle...... |
#15
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thanks for the help ray im gonna try and do alot of designs on cardboard and try and get it down then try it for real
Bill:evil __________________ Cowards die many times before their deaths; the valiant never taste death but once. --Shakespeare: Julius Caesar |
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blade, knife, knives |
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