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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need.

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  #1  
Old 08-18-2011, 12:50 AM
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ckluftinger ckluftinger is offline
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Drop Point Hunter

Just finished this one. Forged from 5160, 5 1/2 inch blade, 4 inch handle. The scales are bocote. First time I used this wood. Nice, but oily. The bolsters are attached with blind pins. Came across a weird characteristic of masking tape: I used the green "painter's pal" type to tape off the blade after it was finished, and it seems there is something corrosive in the glue because after I "unmasked" the blade I had several pits in the steel. Took me an hour to polish them out. Does anyone have any information on what's in the adhesive? It happened twice!
Hope you like it.
Thanks, as always.

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Old 08-18-2011, 01:10 AM
gsimmo gsimmo is offline
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Chris, the tape you are using is it called Frog something? When I go into work, I can look into it. Call up the msds and that sort of thing. I work for a hardware store, so it shouldn't be too much of a problem. Let me know.

-Geoff
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  #3  
Old 08-18-2011, 01:11 AM
gsimmo gsimmo is offline
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And one he// of a nice looking knife and sheath too. Someday, I hope mine look this good.
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Old 08-18-2011, 05:32 AM
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Never used the green just the blue, but maybe some "finger juice" got on the under side of the tape. It happens.
Had a student once sneeze just before taping a blade up. He decided on a "mustard" etch later as the spots were to deep (week before he took the tape off) and close to the handle junction. Just as well, because he still had a lot to learn on finishing handles. Turned into a nice period skinner.


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Old 08-18-2011, 03:12 PM
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Frankallen Frankallen is offline
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Outstanding Job on this one!! Beautiful sheath also!! I love working with Bocote...


Frank


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  #6  
Old 08-18-2011, 11:30 PM
gsimmo gsimmo is offline
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Chris,
I did a little research on the tape, assuming we are speaking of the same type. The green paint tape that I looked at absorbs water from the paint at the edge of the tape. There is a warning that some cleaners may soak into the edge and "tarnish metal finishes". So there might be a chance that if some of the cleaner, i.e. acetone, could have been absorbed and would have stayed at the edges of the tape in contact with the metal for however long you left it there. Or the oil from your fingers as Carl stated. Good info to know either way.

-Geoff
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Old 08-19-2011, 12:32 PM
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qsimmo, it was not Frog tape. It's called Painter's Mate. It's green and supposed to not stick to the paint as much as regular masking tape. I used it because sometimes the regular tape gets so stuck on the blade it takes paint thinner or acetone to get the adhesive off. Good possibility that it's "finger juice" like Carl said, although thats never happened before. I always clean the blade religiously before taping it up. Maybe I missed something. In any case, I'm switching back to "regular" and I'll be changing the tape occasionally if the project takes more than a few days - which it usually does...
Thanks for your kind comments. I'm beginning to feel like my work is actually improving - a little...


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Old 08-24-2011, 08:51 AM
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Horsewright Horsewright is offline
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Very nice work. I too love Bocote. I've used it alot and it holds up really well. I agree with changing the tape a few times during a project. Especially if its taking a bit of time. I had some rust show up on a damascus blade a while back. Where it came from Quien Sabe? But changing out that blue tape every once in a while has prewvented any repeats. I like that knife!
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Old 08-25-2011, 08:04 AM
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Simple and clean... I like it!


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  #10  
Old 08-26-2011, 06:28 AM
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My approach - Never leave tape on over night or longer and always wipe the blade clean after removal if you don't want to refinish later.


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  #11  
Old 08-26-2011, 08:13 AM
RICK LOWE RICK LOWE is offline
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Very nice work on the knife and sheath. On the tape issue, I put a liberal coating of 3-in-1 oil on the blade and then tape with the blue painter's tape. Have left blades taped this way for several months (don't ask why) with no problems. Also, easier to remove any tape residue.


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Old 08-27-2011, 05:45 AM
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Waddayameandunasky?
Come on RLo, are you starting to admit that the blade is the easy part?
I'd oil mine but then my shop would smell like an auto parts store...too many hanging around looking for me to do something. Besides I like the patina they get over time.
Be good to see you at the end of the month (+ all you other Iron Heads).
May be spending at least one night with JC so we can have a Macanuda conference to discuss the future of F.O.O.S.R.K. especially if Brother Mark shows up.


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  #13  
Old 09-03-2011, 12:33 AM
Puukare Puukare is offline
 
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I like it verry much,good job!
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  #14  
Old 09-03-2011, 09:57 AM
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Here's an update on this knife: I used a piece of Bocote I bought from Lee Valley tools. Stupid me I assumed (and you know what happens when you ass-u-me) that it was kiln dried. It wasn't. Now, three weeks later the wood is beginning to shrink. I can feel the ridges between the scales and the tang @#$%&!!I'm going to leave it for a couple of months, maybe a year, and then re-grind to level the tang with the scales. Same on the bolster. I hope it won't split around the pins...


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Old 09-03-2011, 10:30 AM
Doug Lester Doug Lester is offline
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Get a moisture meter. I found mine on Ebay but you should be able to find them were wood turning equiptment is sold.

Doug


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