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  #1  
Old 04-18-2017, 12:10 AM
KevBooth KevBooth is offline
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Suggestions on contact wheel?

I'm debating getting a contact wheel, to try a hollow grind for the KITH. What suggestions would you guys give to a first timer? What size? Serrated or non??

Just for information sake. Step pulley, home built machine. 2hp 1765 motor. Interchangeable tool arms.

Thanks
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  #2  
Old 04-18-2017, 07:23 AM
WBE WBE is offline
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A 10" smooth wheel. You can use a 8" wheel if a narrow blade, but even then, 10" is better. IMHO.
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  #3  
Old 04-18-2017, 08:45 AM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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As WBE said, 8 or 10". I use the 10" serrated for most knives. For small blades (folder blades) I use a 5" plain wheel I made from a heavy cart wheel ...


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Old 04-18-2017, 06:14 PM
KevBooth KevBooth is offline
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Has anyone ever used a wheel like this? The wheel is pretty hard. I think it would work if the bearings got a bit of an upgrade? Any input?
Thanks.
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  #5  
Old 04-18-2017, 08:41 PM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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That looks very much like my 5" wheel. That is pretty hard and it doesn't run perfectly true but you can make do with it if you need to but I'd upgrade to a real contact wheel when you can....


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  #6  
Old 04-18-2017, 10:11 PM
KevBooth KevBooth is offline
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The store has the exact same thing in 5" and 6" too. I could get all three, new axles and new bearings for half the price of a "real" contact wheel.
I am very new at this, but I'm been making stuff long enough to know the value of a quality tool. My problem currently is I don't have the knowledge base, having never used a nice grinder with good wheels to know the difference.
I tried golf once. I didn't see spending thousands on good clubs when I wasn't good enough to get all the performance out of a $100 set. Am I correct in thinking along these lines? Or am I comparing apples to oranges?
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Old 04-19-2017, 06:48 AM
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Crex Crex is offline
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Just watch your wheels carefully as they speed up (from the side of course), not all are conformed for higher speeds. Those shouldn't fly apart but if the vibration is too much can wreck your grinder and/or make for less than desirable grinding results. It's hard to beat a well built balanced machine.


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Old 04-19-2017, 09:00 AM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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Your thinking is about right but CREX is correct too. I'd suggest you buy only one wheel, the 8" would do, and try that for a while. If the results are satisfactory then you're good to go for a while. If not, you have that to use while you save for a 'real' wheel. There's no practical difference in a 5" and 6" wheel and very little difference between those and 8". You need one large wheel like 8 or 10 and a small wheel like 1/2". That does it for our grinding needs 90% of the time ....


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Old 04-21-2017, 03:02 PM
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Andrew Garrett Andrew Garrett is offline
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I get mine here:
https://www.sunray-inc.com/custom-pa...-drive-wheels/

I have rubber and polyurethane wheels and have used them for years. I detect no difference.

My main wheel is a smooth 8" polyurethane idler wheel with a 7" aluminum core. That equals a half inch of poly all around.

Sunray lets you order it the way you want it. Steel or aluminum core, you select durometer (hardness--I like 70A), drive or idler, hole size, bearings included or not, color of poly, tread pattern or smooth...
The wheel is custom and still costs less than the equivalent in rubber.

These is copied from a recent quote for a grinder project:

8.00" X 1.00" IDLER WHEEL / 7" ALUM CORE / 70A BLACK
POLYURETHANE TREAD / INCLUDES (2) 1621-2RS (.5" ID) PRECISION
BALL BEARINGS INSTALLED
$81.68 $81.68
1 2.00" X 1.00" DRIVE WHEEL / 1.5" ALUM CORE / 62A BLACK
POLYURETHANE (CROWNED TREAD) / .75" STRAIGHT BORE WITH
KEYWAY AND SETSCREW
$47.77 $47.77
1 2.00" X 1.00" IDLER WHEEL / 1.5" ALUM CORE / 70A BLACK
POLYURETHANE TREAD / INCLUDES (2) 1621-2RS (.5" ID) PRECISION
BALL BEARINGS INSTALLED
$35.67 $

USA Knifemaker's supply also deals in poly wheels.


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Old 04-22-2017, 06:23 AM
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I couldn't remember the name of the company Andy, good you brought it up. I have two of their wheels in poly and they both perform as expected. Been so long I'd forgotten where I got them.


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  #11  
Old 04-22-2017, 08:42 AM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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The link below is to the one I have its a 10in serrated POLY wheel, Poly wheels seem to be a lil cheaper than rubber. I have never had a rubber one to compare but I haven't had any serious problems with my poly wheel works great. I have the KMG grinder from Beaumont metal works ( http://www.beaumontmetalworks.com/shop/ ) and I have heard of a lot of guys saying the wheels that Beaumont metal works makes are some of the best. But again never had one so I cant compare. not positive but I THINK Beaumont only has smooth wheels not serrated

This is the one I have works great its 10in, but I bet they also have a 8in one if that is what you want take a look

http://usaknifemaker.com/knife-makin...el-70duro.html
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  #12  
Old 04-22-2017, 01:04 PM
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Andrew Garrett Andrew Garrett is offline
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I have six coated contact wheels ranging from 1/2" to 12". All but one are smooth, but the serrated wheel is a must for lower powered machines. I made many knives on little 5 Amp, variable speed Delta grinder with a Multitool II attachment. The 8" serrated wheel made the work much easier than a smooth one would have.


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