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Ed Caffrey's Workshop Talk to Ed Caffrey ... The Montana Bladesmith! Tips, tricks and more from an ABS Mastersmith. |
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#1
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Handle screws/bolts?
Hi Ed!
Up until now, I've only used SS, NS and Brass pin stock to attach my handle slabs. I'd like to try some handle screws/bolts for a set of 8 steak knives I'm working on for a cohort at work. My question: what do you use and are there any gotcha's when using screws/bolts? Many thanks! Dana |
#2
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You'll need a step reamer. I get mine from Pop's.
Gary |
#3
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Don't reef down on them. Just snug them up good.
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#4
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Don't get them to hot when grinding.They will heat up quick and burn your handle material.
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#5
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Thanks Gary, Bob and Andy...
for all the good info. I'll write 'em down and keep them at the assembly station.
Best regards, Dana |
#6
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When using Loveless type rivets it's kinda hard sometimes to not get a partial dark ring in the middle of the rivet where the screw threads show. I usually end up with at least some of the thread showing as a dark circle in the middle.
Brass nuts with ss screw or vice versa looks kinda cool with loveless rivets.... Good luck! __________________ God Bless! Craig Blankenship Booger County Outfitters LLC. D.B.A Craig's Outdoor Sports Knifemaker and Gunsmith |
#7
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You can pein the threaded portion once you're close to finish size to reduce the circle.
Also, make sure that the nuts tighten evenly on both sides. I had to redo a handle one time when I found that they were uneven. I think one side loosened up while tightening the other. anyway, I found out when shaping the handle on the grinder and ground through the nut. |
#8
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Thanks Craig and NJ.....
I have actually thought about using the combo of brass and SS or NS too.
Good suggestion about peening as well. Thanks guys! Dana |
#9
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I like the stainless corby style. The 1/4" size is small but mighty strong. Alpha Supply sells them now. You can make your own step drill by grinding a pilot on a drill bit. I like the F size as it is a few thousands bigger and wont stress the scales but on some materials it will show a small gap around the head so I use a 1/4" step drill for those.
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#10
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Thanks Bruce!
When you grind the step on the drill bit do you chuck the bit you are grinding in the drill press and
use a carbide bit in a dremel or foredom to make the step? Thanks again! Dana |
#11
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I just order a batch of 5/16 stainless Corby's. I plan to use them to secure buttcaps to knives because I can countersink the hole and then grind the head flush hopefully without the tang showing through. In the past, I have used acorn nuts that have been turned down, but they can look a bit clunk on some knives. Using a nut instead of brazing one to the buttcap means that I can pretty much shape the cap before it goes on the knife......plus Ihave no idea how to solder, much less braze I use pin stock on my handles as I pretty much only make hidden tang knives. On a similar note, Jerry Fisk reports that using something like the KMG rotary platen seems to reduce the chaces of burning and eating away the softer handle material unevenly.
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#12
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I use corby bolts for take down framed handles and butt caps too. |
#13
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Thanks Bruce and JD...
I think I'll opt for the machine shop to do my grinding . Thanks, also, JD for the
suggestion on the 5/16" corby. I've also used the 1/4" corby for attaching butt caps. Maybe I'm starting to think like a real knife maker . Take care guys, Dana |
#14
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#15
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Tags |
blade, fixed blade, knife, knives |
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