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High-Performance Blades Sharing ideas for getting the most out of our steel.

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  #1  
Old 10-31-2006, 07:48 PM
EdStreet EdStreet is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Columbus, GA
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burners

question,

would this be adequate for a DIY forge heat source?

http://morebeer.com/product.html?product_id=15766

seems it may be somewhat small.

Ed


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Gold is for the mistress - silver for the maid
Copper for the craftsman cunning in his trade.
"Good!" said the Baron, sitting in his hall
But steel - cold steel is master of them all.
Rudyard Kipling (1865 - 1936)
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Old 10-31-2006, 09:15 PM
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B.Finnigan B.Finnigan is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Near Rainier WA
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I have that exact burner that I used to make all grain beer. It puts out a massive amount of heat. If you could contain the heat with a refractory lined shell it could work. With the open bottom design you would have the ability to introduce forced air. I used it as a forge for a while until I built one and it did heat steel but not very fast or evenly.

You got my wheels turning now since I still have it. I did rob the regulator and hose from it for my current forge. When it's running wide open the flame is over three feet high. I melted a chunk of our kitchen floor one time while I was boiling some beer malt. That was just from the heat that refracted downward.

For smelting or alloying it's hard to tell if it would be adequate. With the right refractory and crucible size I am guessing it's a possibility.

Maybe someone out there has tried it?

Update: The one I have is a 300,000 BTU unit, this one is much smaller but the same name brand. I did not read the entire description. It looks like if you put a larger regulator on it like it originally had then you would get the 125,000 btu.

Just one more business that is letting the lawyers run the show instead of the owners. Ain't it great to live in the United States of Litigation?

Last edited by B.Finnigan; 10-31-2006 at 09:22 PM.
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