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  #1  
Old 11-14-2008, 03:51 PM
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pipecrafter pipecrafter is offline
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Ckk Mod1-a

With all the fervor over the anticipation of a DDR2.5BL, I can't believe nobody here has said anything about this:
http://www.knifekits.com/vcom/produc...oducts_id=1641

It's an "assisted opener", which apparently makes it legal to sell complete with spring mechanism, since you're not pushing a button to open the knife. I saw the preview page a few weeks ago, and checked knifekits.com every day since then to see when it would actually go on sale, and when it did, I jumped on it and bought three. Today the mail lady delivered my package from CKK and I immediately jumped in.

Initial impression was "jeez that's a lot of pieces". I also noticed that the dymondwood scales have lots of recessed drilling and milling on the backsides. The reason becomes apparent later on. Also, there were no directions included with mine, however that doesn't bother me at all. If you are not mechanically inclined, you may have some trouble with this kit. Even though the skill level rating is I on CKK's site, I'd hazard that this is actually closer to skill level III without an instruction sheet or exploded diagram.

On to the assembly! I laid out all the parts, separating the screws by size, and grouping things that obviously go together (pivot pieces, liner spacers and screws, etc). This is easier when you count the holes and count the screws. Eliminate the pairings of the things that are obviously too long, and you'll be well on your way. It helps if you've assembled folder kits before, and I must have assembled a good two dozen or so from various sources, so I had a leg up. I don't know that I'd suggest this for a first time assembler, but you never know what you might be capable of. The hardest part of this kit is figuring out the orientation of the spring and little wire doohicky so that nothing binds, and the blade gets held closed. No spoilers from me though - half the fun is figuring this little bit out. You'll know when you get it, and the heavens will open and angels will join you in a chorus while sunbeams illuminate your work area.

Once it's together and oiled, the action is mostly smooth and fluid. The lockup is good, the assisted opening functions perfectly, and it's got a real snap to it. Even so, like with all kits I've put together, this one shows real promise if you take the time to tune everything and get rid of all the burrs from drilling and tapping all those holes.

Gripes about this kit? The hole for the button lockup release is drilled slightly out of alignment. No big deal. It doesn't affect lockup or release, and you might not even notice unless you're a raging perfectionist like me. That's it. One minor thing that could be solved with round file and twenty seconds while you're tuning the rest of the kit.

What would make this kit perfect? Don't get me wrong, this is not a list of gripes. Maybe call this a wishlist for future versions of assisted opener kits:
- Canvas micarta scales. Dymondwood just ain't my thing.
- Slightly beefier button. Personally, I like the button style of the DDR3BL. I concede that making that button style work here would add complications to the kit.
- A 2.5" blade. I know, I know. But a 3" blade is still a bit too much for most folks as an EDC.

Modifications that the builder may try:
- Try making your own scales. Personally I'm going to give this a try out of canvas micarta or G10.
- I'm not a fan of the "tail" in the shape I think I can probably modify it slightly, keeping an eye on the backside where the spring connects. I'm sure there's plenty of meat there to make some minor shape changes.
- along with modifying the shape of the handle/scales/liners, the blade could also be reprofiled somewhat. I can see a couple areas where the blade could be trimmed down, and the tip cut down to fit the new handle profile.
- Phosphor bronze washers. 'Nuff said.
- Don't forget to tune everything and sand off burrs and such.
- You need Locktite for this kit, no doubt about it.

All in all, I like this kit a lot. I learned a lot about assisted openers and how they function. I also like how there's plenty of room for modification. This kit gets a 9 out of 10 from me.


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  #2  
Old 11-14-2008, 07:51 PM
MSWallace MSWallace is offline
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Great review Kurt, thank you. I've got three on the way as well. Maybe they'll be here tomorrow..... I didn't upgrade to the Phosphor Bronze washers, guess I should have. I just checked out the website and they now have a guthook version of the Mod1 as well.

_______
Mike
  #3  
Old 11-14-2008, 08:02 PM
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pipecrafter pipecrafter is offline
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I just saw that. No worries though. I don't think the guthook would survive what I have in store for this blade.


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  #4  
Old 11-14-2008, 10:33 PM
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Unhappy

Quote:
Originally Posted by pipecrafter
Also, there were no directions included with mine,


If no one beats me to it(PLEASE DO) i'll try to take some pics if i figure it out. I should get it tomorrow(along with a Typhoon-Twister)

james
  #5  
Old 11-15-2008, 01:40 PM
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I'm about -><- this close to submitting an order for a Typhoon Twister. It would be a birthday present to myself, but since I just spent a pile of money on stuff I *need* from McMaster-Carr, I'm having trouble pulling the trigger.


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  #6  
Old 11-15-2008, 03:03 PM
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Exclamation

the twister is a really nice knife needed a little filing to get the stud through the latch.
of course i striped a screw (so be careful with them things ) now i gotta find a striped screw remover

edit: the was because i knew you didn't need to hear that it was just added in case it would help someone else.

Last edited by zombie; 11-15-2008 at 03:06 PM.
  #7  
Old 11-17-2008, 04:22 PM
GISspecialist GISspecialist is offline
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I, too just assembled the Mod1-A. Mine also arrived without instructions. I can't seem to get the action tuned so that it opens properly without loosening the pivot to the point that the blade has an objectionable amount of side-to-side play. perhaps the phos-bronze washers would let me tighten it up a bit.

Also, on closing, the stop pin doesn't stop the blade before the cutting edge hits the rear standoff, where it rests in the closed position, damaging the edge. I can't figure out any way to tune this problem out.

If you're thinking of making your own handle scales, be aware that there is an extensive amount of deep relief milling on the insides of the scales to accomodate the mechanism. I don't presently have the tooling to do adecent job of it myself.
  #8  
Old 11-17-2008, 05:12 PM
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pipecrafter pipecrafter is offline
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Bronze washers will definitely help - as well as couple drops of light oil. I used some machine oil in mine, but Hoppes #9 will also work well.

The I fixed the problem with the rear standoff by regrinding the blade profile. You may or may not want to do this. A simple fix would be to use a triangle file and file a notch on the inside of the standoff. Just make sure it's positioned correctly when you do final assembly.

As far as relieving the inside of the scales, it would probably be easier to do with a milling machine. However, with a little patience, you could make a bunch of holes with a drill press and a 3/8" forstner bit (or even a 1/4" or 3/8" mill held in the drill press), then use a dremel to finish it all off. The bonus to that is, if you used a composite material, you'd be able to make the handles thinner without worrying about making them too weak. They're about .28" now, and I think you could get them down to .20" without trouble.


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  #9  
Old 11-17-2008, 05:26 PM
GISspecialist GISspecialist is offline
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Thanks for the tips. I'll try your suggestion of filing a notch in the standoff. I hadn't thought of that. I may also try using the drill press to mill out a set of scales in G10 or Micarta. I think it would look pretty mean in olive canvas Micarta.

The main thing, though, is that I've got to get the side play out of the pivot or I'm not going to have much interest in taking it any further. I'll give the bearing surfaces a little more TLC, bronze washers and some lube. Maybe that will do it.
  #10  
Old 11-17-2008, 05:41 PM
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Glad I could help.

Even with the nylon washers, I get no play and a action action. The completed one is well lubed though, and I also deburred everything before working it in.


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  #11  
Old 11-19-2008, 02:12 PM
Nayr1983 Nayr1983 is offline
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I completed the Mod1-a Last night it was my first folder kit, It took me about 2hrs since all they give you is a parts list and two pictures of the finished product without handle scales. I thought it went together pretty easy minus a few problems.

The screw that holds the liner lock button would not go thru the hole provided from the factory it took a substantial about of grinding with the dremel to open it up, when I say substantial I actually broke a bit in the process. I also agree on the addition of the phos/bronze washers, the nylon ones just don't cut it. Before the spring was attached there was a ton of side to side play. Once attached it pulls the blade to one side so most of that goes away but it can interfere with the lockup release. I also agree with Kurt's review that the blades comes to far into the case and impacts the bottom standoff which could in time damage the blade. The only other thing that went wrong was one of the T6 screws the holds the handle scales on would not catch.

I hope this helps someone considering purchasing one, I'm as green as green gets on this one I actually had to buy the T6 & T15 screw####### to get thru this project. all in all I think it turned out really well I can post photos if you guys want. I think it's an excellent kit and would order more.
  #12  
Old 11-20-2008, 08:58 PM
Some1New Some1New is offline
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What no one's posting completed pic's?

Eric


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  #13  
Old 11-20-2008, 09:16 PM
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Red face

still not got it working here i think imma have to stick to usein knives can't even assemble one
  #14  
Old 11-21-2008, 08:38 AM
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pipecrafter pipecrafter is offline
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Here's a quick and dirty photo of one assembled with the spring in place and the handle scale off. It pretty much only goes together one way. Keep your screws separated by size, and you can't go wrong.



Also of note, you may need to deepen the counterbore on the left scale to allow the screws to grab the liner. It's a trivial operation if you have a drill press.

EDIT: The action improves CONSIDERABLY if you take the time to deburr everything and sand/polish the mating surfaces. Just like any other folding knife kit, what you get out of it is directly proportional to what you put into it.


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Last edited by pipecrafter; 11-21-2008 at 08:41 AM.
  #15  
Old 11-21-2008, 10:02 AM
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Talking



THINKYOU




i had bent the wire

edit: don't try to post on pain nose sprays

Last edited by zombie; 11-21-2008 at 10:05 AM.
 

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