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  #1  
Old 05-14-2017, 10:57 PM
Will Will is offline
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Sheath suggestions for sharp finger type knife?

Trying to come up with a good sheath design for my version of a sharp finger hunter. I'm trying to avoid snaps and straps. Normally I like a fairly substantial guard with a one piece pouch sheath, but this blade has a slightly upswept point, and no guard.

This is what I've come up with. Sheath is drying in preparation for dyeing and stitching and finishing so it's sill a little rough. Basically just a pancake style with belt loop, fairly snug around the blade profile, wet formed around the handle.

Thoughts?
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  #2  
Old 05-15-2017, 07:36 AM
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That looks good and should work fine. Was expecting to see more severe upsweep from thread title. Starts getting more difficult the greater the sweep.


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  #3  
Old 05-15-2017, 11:02 AM
Will Will is offline
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Thanks, I'm not a huge fan up the trailing point, this is about as sever as I like to make them, really vastly prefer a drop point. But I got a wild hair and decided I wanted to do one. Thing is, I used to do a sheath for a knife like this with a strap and snap, but I hate straps as they are always in the way and could potentially get cut.


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Old 05-15-2017, 07:33 PM
jimmontg jimmontg is offline
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Will, I've not had a problem with cutting a keeper strap, but I've made sheaths where they could get in the way. I found one solution where if you need a keeper strap, put it on the belt loop made out of a non veg tanned leather, like a nice thick double butt hide which isn't stiff, I glue two straps together using spot tack method with Barge cement and sew it to the belt loop on a low hanging sheath. Just a thought.

I just completed two sheaths designed to show-off the handle of the knife and as such needed an inconspicuous keeper strap right down on the guard. I've never cut one, but they do get in the way when putting the knife back in the sheath. Look at the bottom of the last page of the photo sharing thread, there are two sheaths I made for my friend dtec. These types of sheaths are good for a more severe trailing point.

Zack White Leather has pure brass snaps for a reasonable price. Beware of the plated steel ones for sale as they will eventually wear through and rust. I use nothing, but solid Brass rivets, snaps, latches, rings and what not. I make other things besides sheaths, thank God for Youtube videos, Yay!
http://www.zackwhite.com/


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Last edited by jimmontg; 05-15-2017 at 07:37 PM.
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Old 05-15-2017, 09:19 PM
Will Will is offline
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Thanks for the link, I'll check them out.

I've never cut a keeper strap, but I have to fiddle with it to keep it out of the way and to draw or sheath the knife. Not to mention while I've yet to wear out a snap, they are something that can wear out over time, and that's in the back of my mind when I do one.


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Old 05-15-2017, 10:08 PM
jimmontg jimmontg is offline
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Will, the keeper snaps on the sheaths I made pop open with your thumb. I put beeswax inside the female snap to keep it lubed. Egads that sounds nasty. I make my snaps to always pop open easily. Closing... not so much.


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Old 05-15-2017, 11:58 PM
Will Will is offline
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I understand, and I pretty much do the same, except it's a mix of bee's wax, paraffin, mutton tallow and balistol lube, got creative when making a wax to hot wax sheaths.

Still not a fan of them as it's one more thing to fiddle with, prefer the pop in and out and simplicity of a pouch sheath, but some designs don't lend themselves to a pouch as well as others.


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Old 05-16-2017, 12:43 AM
jimmontg jimmontg is offline
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To each his own. For a big knife I do something different. I like a nice pouch sheath, but they don't lend themselves to some blades. Also depends on the customer and what they may want. I've had some odd requests on that score.


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Old 05-16-2017, 01:26 AM
Will Will is offline
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Tell me about it. I've got a guy wanting a version of a Busse knife, having fun explaining that I'm forging so I'm not limited to bar stock sizes, nice guy, but if he wants a Busse, just get a Busse.


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Old 05-16-2017, 10:25 PM
jimmontg jimmontg is offline
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I understand Will. My nephew thought I'd give him a good deal on making a realistic Kukri for him. I told him the materials and HT on 3/8" thick L6 would run near $200 with no profit for me. He was flabbergasted. I told him a real Kukri runs between 1/4 to 3/8 " thick and I wouldn't consider making it thinner. I sent him to Atlanta Cutlery who has real Kukris made as far back as 1890. There was no way I wanted to forge one. I use the college for forging and their blacksmith class isn't always open. I trade teaching advanced TIG welding techniques for forge and power hammer time. A Kukri would take all day and then another day to grind it. I'm not Nepalese and happy for 50 cents an hour. LOL


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Old 05-16-2017, 11:06 PM
Will Will is offline
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Amazing isn't it? And some people's ideas...


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Old 05-17-2017, 07:33 AM
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Quickest way to "educate" them is to put a hammer in their hand and hand them some bar stock or round bar. Funny how they change their minds on "wanna make a sword". They think the forging is the hard part, but have no clue about fit & finish issues. Always an eye opener.


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  #13  
Old 05-28-2017, 08:49 PM
WNC Goater WNC Goater is offline
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That sheath should work fine. I've yet to make a sheath with any straps, snaps, keepers, etc. If it's snuggled deep inside, like yours is, and it's wet formed to the handle, it's highly unlikely to come out of there. If it ever loosens, wet form it again. But I haven't had one loosen yet, at least not to the point of feeling like I may lose it.


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  #14  
Old 05-29-2017, 12:53 AM
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Thanks, much prefer the simplicity of a pouch. Do a few snap type, but the keeper straps are always in the way.


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