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The Folding Knife (& Switchblade) Forum The materials, techniques and the designing of folding knives. |
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#436
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#437
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Sorry Don for the delay on mine but I am working with drawing scale problems , I will have some pics by this weekend. I have to finish my rise and fall indicator first then I can get this finished plus being all damascus I will have a bit of finishing to do so don't give up on me yet
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#438
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Uhh?
Wish I had a really good excuse for not showing my WIP, But I dont. I will get out the camera and get on it. __________________ |
#439
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Great, Joe.
I figured you had dropped out. Thanks. |
#440
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#441
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Well? A lot of things happened and kept me away from the bench. Besides, I had to work the drawings over and over again, since I decided to start from scratch and had first to understand the ?engineering? of the slip joint. My other difficulty was on grinding the blade. I can grind bowies or whatever size blades but small slip joints blades?.Oh boy!!! The best way I found was to mount the whole blade and then grind it. Sorry for the few photos but I was so focused on the job that I forgot to take shots of the WIP. Last edited by VictorCoelho; 07-20-2009 at 06:30 PM. |
#442
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I would like to thank Don and everybody else that showed their WIP here.
It was a great help for me. This, I consider to be the first serious slip joint I`ve made. Thank you Don for the idea and generosity of putting up this thread, and for your patience not only here but also through the emails we exchanged. |
#443
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You're quite welcome, Victor.
Great WIP photos. Don't stop now, though. let's see the rest until it's finished. Very nice design too. I know what you mean about forgetting to take some photos. I always do that. It's hard to focus on the work and at the same time take photos. |
#444
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Victor, you might want to make another pin hole either in the spring slide or in front of the indicator on your R&F fixture. Do I see a second hole for the blade pivot pin in your photo?
Your parts should be approximately square with the indicator stem. Looks like yours is at an angle. I have more than one pin hole in my slide and pick one that lines up best. I really don't know if this will make a significant difference, but I get mine lined up approx. square. |
#445
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Oh!....you might be right Don, during the adjustments, more than once, I would set the R&F to zero and then after taking the blade out and putting it back I would get different readings for the three positions??maybe what you say explains why.
Another question, what is the radius of your fly cutter?.......and what is the depth of the cut prior grinding? Do you thing it is a must to mill the liners? |
#446
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On the two knives I made here I just used a 1/2" end mill for the nail nick if that's what you mean. There are pictures of the process here on this thread somewhere. The blade was mounted on a toolmakers sine plate.
I plunge into the blade about 0.040" and then traverse the table until it looks right. Then I go back to the start point without moving the end mill just to clean it up. The blade is mounted upside down and the sine plate is set at an angle. I've used lots of various ways to make nail nicks and like this method best. No special cutter or tooling required except the sine plate, and I made that myself long ago. I hope this answers your question. I wish we had some way of providing an index for threads here so that we could look up the subject and go right to the proper post. |
#447
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Curtis Wilson showed a very neat way to relieve the liners around the pivot hole.
Mask the inside of the liners with tape, cut away the tape only in the areas you want to relieve, and use your etcher to etch the surface around the pivot. That will be the method I'll use from now on. It leaves a very neat, clean surface that's a few thousandths of an inch deep. You can also sand the area away with a Dremel tool and a sanding roll. I showed that method here along with the milling method. It's necessary to do this on all folders that don't have washers. If this isn't done, the blade will be scratched by the liners when the blade is opened and closed. |
#448
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Yeah.....now I remember......tried to go over the posts but there are so many, I just gave up!....
I tried with a 45 end mill but I guess I had a cheap one and got dull at the first touch, so I went for the fly cutter, which worked pretty well but since I never worked with it before, I just had to guess the radius of the bit and the depth of the cut.....it didn't come out as I wanted but next time I'll get a better one. Do you thing it is a must to mill the liners? |
#449
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Don, I'll have to get back to the WIP on my toothpick after the A. G. Russell Show. One of the springs had a Flaw, warpped spirally (never had that one happen before ever). Also, seems that the liners warpped as well (will mill out new ones after the show. I've spotwelded both front and rear bolsters before without any problem. The only thing that I can think of is that because of the liners being really narrow on the rear bolsters that it spiralled at that point.
Victor, I use a 45 degree cutter (carbide) without any problem for my nail nicks. Also, you are right about the radius angle needing to be changed for the fly cutter to work properly. Normally, when cutting the nail nick you can go at least half the thickness of the blade when using a hollow grind, and up to even 55% to 60% thickness on a flat grind but all of this will depend upon the type/style of blade design being used. I normally just go 50% thickness, 40% if it is a really thin blade. I know that Don broght this up before about Cut-off wheels to make nail nicks, but if you use two (2) of the small regulat wheels it will add a littledifferent deminsion to the blade (just a little different way to make things work). Hope that this is of some help. Curtis __________________ Curtis Wilson Wilson's Custom Knives, Engraving, and Scrimshaw |
#450
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blade, fixed blade, folding knife, forge, forging, hunting knife, knife, knife making, knives, switchblade |
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