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The Damascus Forum The art and study of Damascus steel making. |
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#1
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Cable Damascus pointers...?
As I am going to be getting my forge up and running any day now, actually I'm hoping today. One of the things that I have lined up to do is some cable damascus. I've already done a fair amount of searching not only here but around the net as well. The big things that I have found are fluxing a lot and getting the cable as clean as possible before starting. Well I've cleaned the crap out of the cable, soap & water, vinegar, brushing, torching to wick the grease out, brushing some more, etc... It seems to be about as clean as it's going to get.
So, my question is this... Is there anything else that you guys know of that I need to watch out for or that I will need or need to do? I know it's kind of a general question, I'm just looking for any basic pointers you guys might have. Thanks for your help guys. Chris Nilluka |
#2
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Gene Osborn's CD was really helpful to me. I also read and re read Wayne Goddards books as well as Jim Hrisoulas.
My first cable blades turned out smaller/thinner/longer than I expected, but eventually made stuff that would cut. Now I'm trying to rethink sheaths (smaller-thinner) and will try some 5-6 wt leather this weekend. Still have not figured out anything about adding synthetic liners to thinner leather sheaths. I'm only a little bit further down the path from you, but will try to help if you email a specific question. J |
#3
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I know some good cable damascus blademakers locally. They say that you should first wash it in petrol! Then flux VERY well, twist very tight, and DO NOT overheat, cable gets hot very easy since the threads are so small. Then weld, then forge to shape and all that.
__________________ Johan Braadland Jbcustomknives.com SITE IS UP SOON ! please check in soon. |
#4
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Cris
Here is how I do it at my shop. Please dont think this is THE only way, or necessarily the right way, its just what works for me. I take a 8 -10 " section of cable, I determine the length by what I can get the whole piece to a welding heat at one time. Your forge may vary. First I arc weld both ends solid, then attatch a handle. Bring the entire billet up to a good red heat, and unwind mabe a 1/4 turn, just enough to open the cable up, then flux heavily and put back in the forge. bring to a welding heat take it out an fling the flux out, this will remove most of the "gunk"reflux and put back in the fire. (This will cause a lot of molten hot stuff to fly , please be in a fire safe area, and wear proper eye protection!!!) Once at a welding heat, I grad both ends with channel locks and twist it back tight. Reflux and back in the forge. Again at welding heat, I will continue to twist it as tight as I can, I use a vise here. I belive this is actually a form of welding. I will heat to welding heat and twist until I cannot twist any more without deforming the bar. At welding heat I start a series of light taps using the step down on the anvil. Hammering into the "V" of the step down while rotating the bar. I am forging it round, once the bar is solid, I will hammer flat. All of these are done at a welding heat! Once I have a nice square or rectangular billet, I will stretch it out to twice its length then cut in half. I will grind the surface clean with an angle grinder (I do it hot) then stack the two pieces back togather and reweld them. This will interupt the patter just a bit, but for me its just more time to work out any inclusions that may be there. Again, everything Im doing on this bar to this point is done at a WELDING HEAT. Forge your billet to shape, I think that by forging to 80% or better if possible will help you have fewer inclusions, then grind your blade and etch. If you find inclusions, either grind them out, or if large enough, reforge at a welding heat, while fluxing heavily. This works for me, and I hope it will help you. God Bless Mike __________________ "I cherish the Hammer of Thor, but I praise the hand of God" |
#5
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Hey thanks Mike. The pointers you gave I hadn't found any info like that yet. Such as, unwinding a little to get flux inside. Very good and makes perfect sense. Then twisting it back together multiple times. All makes very good sense. Thanks a bunch!!
Chris Nilluka P.S.: I'm a little bumbed now. It looks like I'm going to have to wait until next week to start forging.. Oh well |
#6
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The attached is the last cable blade that I have made. This is how I do it. I use brand new cable I do not clean it . I weld up both end and attach a handle to it. I use 20 Mule Team borax for all my damascus making. When heating it up I will flux and wire brush 3 to 4 times before it gets to welding heat. Once it is a welding heat I use medium taps follow the strands from the handle to the tip. Re-heating . fluxing and wire brushing as need. Once the sound changes and the cable is reduced I will draw it out on my press. Hope this helps and good luck. __________________ INDIAN GEORGE http://www.indiangeorgesknives.com/ http://community.webshots.com/user/indiangeorge Southern New England Knifemaker Guild President N.E.C.K.A. Founding Father Last edited by INDIAN GEORGE; 02-20-2005 at 09:52 AM. |
#7
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Good looking blade there George! Seems kind of dark, was wondering if you did some type of bluing, or is that the color you get from the etch?
God Bless Mike __________________ "I cherish the Hammer of Thor, but I praise the hand of God" |
#8
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Thanks Mike. I Tool Black it. I also used it on the wrought iron guard.
__________________ INDIAN GEORGE http://www.indiangeorgesknives.com/ http://community.webshots.com/user/indiangeorge Southern New England Knifemaker Guild President N.E.C.K.A. Founding Father Last edited by INDIAN GEORGE; 02-20-2005 at 09:53 AM. |
#9
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Quote:
Tool Black? Okay, I've heard of blueing but not tool black. What is it? What's the difference compared to blueing? Another question, you can heat color normal damascus, can you do it to cable damascus? Chris Nilluka |
#10
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Tool Black is basically the same as cold bluing. You can get it from MSC, Mc Master-Carr and etc. It only comes in quarts.
I never tried heat coloring with a torch. I do have hot bluing tank, but never tried it on cable. __________________ INDIAN GEORGE http://www.indiangeorgesknives.com/ http://community.webshots.com/user/indiangeorge Southern New England Knifemaker Guild President N.E.C.K.A. Founding Father |
#11
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I agree with mike in the twisting togther is welding ,in fact i count on it. I weld the ends of the cable, hammer the welded ends into square to prepare for the twist,heat to welding temp, flux,reheat and put in vise and twist, the amount you twist will make a difference in the pattern, more twist the finer pattern. When you get good youll find you can feel the cable weld and it dont take as much so you may control your pattern as such.
Once i feel the "twist weld" as i call it i tap lightly starting to make a square and continue the welding with hammer. I try not to work but maybe 4 inches of the cable at a time at this stage. I reheat ,reflux at second welding heat and work the area i had just twisted with a hammer more, usually by this time you start to hear it sound more solid and can feel it. Once thats done if im satisfied i move on to reheat and twist again on down the cable. here is a example of what can be done with pattern development in cable. I call it my anaconda pattern, its basically 2 patterns in one. Altho i figured out this pattern myself, i really need to thank Ron Claiborne for his advice on Cable and he was my guide on what can be done with cable and also taught me there are no limitations with it or any damascus. He has a love of cable and is quick to help anyone.KUDOS Romey __________________ Romey Cowboy inc Keep a light rein, a foot on each side and a faraway look http://www.highcountryknives.com Last edited by sdcb27; 02-21-2005 at 03:29 PM. |
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blade, forge, forging, knife |
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