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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need. |
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#1
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Redeemed myself!
Yesterday I had a blank heat treated and tempered the blade....it looked pretty good, then as I was grinding, I lost my plunge. Somehow I had backed it up way into (about 1/8" away from the finger choil. I did my best to rescue it, but I had taken too much metal off.
Last night I left the chat room (by the way you should go, it's great fun in there) early to go heat treat another blank I cut out. I heat treated it, went to bed as it was late and prayed it didn't crack before I tempered it. So at about 3 oclock today I got back at it. Tempered the blade for two one hour cycles in the oven and let it cool in between those hours. I came out straw and purple just like it was supposed to! Finally, something goes right! But I didn't get overjoyed yet because, it is, after all, Monday. After the blade cooled once more, I went to grinding a bevel, making sure to start far enough away for a decent plunge.....and here it is! I still have a little grinding and cleanup to do on it, but my plunge lines are perfect! The other side is a mirror image of this. I forgot to take a pic of both sides. Uploaded with ImageShack.com Awwwww durn! I forgot to drill holes for the handle....told you it was Monday!!!! Wait, I didn't heat treat the whole knife, just the blade so I may be ok. It's according how heat sensitive 01 TS is...............I'm sure someone can tell me if I ****** the pooch or not! Last edited by Hurley; 11-11-2013 at 10:14 PM. |
#2
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that's what they make carbide drill bits for you don't really think your the first to forget do you... ha
Erik |
#3
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How high are you planning to take your grind? I would have ground it about 75 or 80 percent before I heat treated.
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#4
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Maybe a little higher, not much.
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#5
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Titanium drill bits work? Can't find any carbide except those made for hammer drills.
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#6
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No, titanium drills will not work on hardened steel. They are really nothing more than HSS drills with a ti coating to make them wear a little longer. If you want to drill a hardened tang you must have carbide drills, preferably straight flute carbide drills. You are not likely to find these in a hardware store but you may find them in a machinists supply (which are rare but some places have them). Other than that, you can order them from MSC or a similar tool supplier. Good idea to have a few around because this sort of thing happens to us all.
There is an alternative. You can try to soften the tang and then drill it with a normal drill (after the tang cools, of course). Submerge the blade in water and heat the tang, let it cool as slowly as possible. It will probably still be hard enough to ruin the drill but it should be possible to drill it.... |
#7
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Ok, got pilot holes drilled for the corbies, but now I've run into another problem. The two pieces that screw together are 7/32, but the screw heads themselves are 5/16. So I should drill the tang 7/32 and the handles 5/16 right? Or doesn't it matter? I think it would or they wouldn't be 2 different sizes.
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#8
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It matters. Drill the tang for 7/32" and the scales for BOTH - the last 1/8" or so of the scale would be 7/32 and the hole above that 5/16" so that the larger head has something to pull against in order to clamp the scales to the tang. The problem with Corbies is that you have to work out exactly how deep to drill those various holes so that the Corbies fit together correctly. Loveless bolts don't look quite as nice as Corbies but they are simpler to install...
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#9
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I guess they're corbies, never looked at the name, just grabbed them out of a bucket the guy had on the table at the Georgia Knife-makers meeting. You still glue the scales on too right? I bought some epoxy too. ADDNOTE - I'm not going to have a lot of room left once I countersink those corbies into my knife scales. Should I just use thicker scales?
1 set of corbies is 1/4" the other 5/16" Uploaded with ImageShack.com Last edited by Hurley; 11-12-2013 at 07:57 PM. |
#10
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Yes, always use glue - AcraGlas preferably. As for not having space left, well, don't sink the entire head of the bolt into the wood and you'll have more space in the scales you already have. After the glue dries grind off the top of the bolt. The trick with Corbies is making sure you sink enough of it into the wood that you can grind off the top without exposing the blind hole underneath. Again, if you get tired of dealing with that issue consider trying Loveless bolts. They may not look quite as nice but they work great and there's really no guess work involved with them ...
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#11
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As always Ray, you are a cache of knowledge! Thanks again!
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Tags |
art, bevel, blade, drill, forge, grinding, hammer, hardware, heat, image, knife, made, make, making, metal, mirror, problem, scales, steel, store, supply, tang, titanium, wood |
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