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#46
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I agree, the placement would be better. My primary thought was the directionality of the disc, especially if you are using it to flat grind blades. If your motor is going to be reversible then no problem. If not, then you'd want some way to grind blade up on both sides, and the 2 wheel design could solve that.
I've seen some 90 degree transfer cases on electric motors before. There might be a chance of scrounging one from the junk yard and adapting it to your set up. |
#47
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I looked at supluscenter.com and they have gear boxes that probably could be modified to make some thing like this but I think this is going to be a frankenstien deal off ebay or the local scrap yard.
If you are going to grind blades with a disc attachment, you would want reversable and variable and the disc to be flat to your belly. It can be done. |
#48
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Notice of Errata
Thanks to a call from Andrew Garrett.
He found a measurement error in the NWGS plans. The error is this: The plans call for 1.75"/sq tube for the tool bar's and the sliding tubes in the tool rest. The correct size is 1.5"/sq. This error affects 4 CAD drawing pages and 2 pages in the assembly manual. The correction is to use a 1.5" tube where a 1.75" tube is called for in the tool bars and sliding tubes. I will be sending out via email a PDF file containing the corrected pages for all that have purchased the plans to date. The corrected pages can then be printed immediately. If I don't have your email, I will mail via US First Class mail, corrected print outs. Any of you that have purchased plans and desire a corrected print out in addition to or in place of the PDF file for any reason, simply send me an email and I will be glad to mail out a set of corrected pages for you. All plans shipping forward will have the corrections in place. The error in the plans will result in the purchase of 8' of 1.75"/sq tubing this is not needed. If any one that has purchased the plans to date and then bought the incorrect size tube due to my mistake in the plans, send me an email and I will make it right. My sincere apologies to all affected. Thank you Andrew for letting me know. |
#49
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Tracy,
I just woke up! I was kickin' around the scrap yard this morning after work--that's when I called. I was so tired I wasn't sure my math was right! Thanks for calling me back though. I suspected as much with the 1 1/2" pipe. That, I can find! The 2" w/3/16" walls though, I may need to get some help on that stuff. It's not common around here (read: can't find any). The only other question I have (and I confess that I've not read 100% of the text) is about the strapping steel for holding the pipes together. Is it listed in you materials list? Do we cut it from the pipe or was it omitted? In other news, I got the angle iron and 4" pipe with plenty of extra for $4! I'll be in touch brother! __________________ Andy Garrett https://www.facebook.com/GarrettKnives?ref=hl Charter Member - Kansas Custom Knifemaker's Association www.kansasknives.org "Drawing your knife from its sheath and using it in the presence of others should be an event complete with oos, ahhs, and questions." Last edited by Andrew Garrett; 09-20-2007 at 07:33 PM. |
#50
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No day spent in the junk yard is a bad day in my opinion.
The reason the 2" pipe is 3/16" thick is for when you tap some threads to hold the tool bar in place. You want just a little meat there. If you can find 1/4", that will work too. 1/8" is too thin but can be tapped just be carefull when tightening your tool bar in place. You can get away with 1/8" thin for the tension tube tapped hole since it has very little force applied by the tracking wheel assembly. I haven't listed any of the metal on my supply web site yet but I'll get on it this weekend for those that can't find the stuff. I'm just finishing up the correction pages to email out. I will have those all sent out tonight. thanks again for the heads up on that measurement. The strap is listed in the materials listing and on the Tracking Block CAD page. It is 1"x1/8" and cut to either 4.5" or 3.5". |
#51
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Well, a rusty pile of steel in my garage is evidence of my success in gathering the building materials.
I have boldly decided to use 1 1/2" square tube even where 1 3/4" is called for. I just can't find the later and I'm convinced I can make it work. I also opted for 3/8"aluminum for the slack belt and platen assemblies just for weight considerations (though it did cost alot more). The platen itself is 1/4" rather than 3/8"--again, it's what I could find. I'll be lining it with pyroceram anyway. So far, without any bolts or screws and all that stuff, I'm up to about $35. __________________ Andy Garrett https://www.facebook.com/GarrettKnives?ref=hl Charter Member - Kansas Custom Knifemaker's Association www.kansasknives.org "Drawing your knife from its sheath and using it in the presence of others should be an event complete with oos, ahhs, and questions." |
#52
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#53
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Tracy,
Another howler jumped out at me when picking up steel and looking at plans. The materials list calls for 2.25" of 2" sqaure pipe. (27"). The CAD drawing shows a 15" section for the tool arm to slide into, an 8" section for the work rest assembly to slide in to and two 4" sections for the adjustment of the work rest itself. By my count, that's 31" without allowing for wastage due to cutting and squaring up the ends. I went ahead and got something like a 35" length to be sure. You did ask to be informed of any 'soft spots' so I'll call 'em out as I find them. I'm excited to get started! I just gotta start buying some wheels now! __________________ Andy Garrett https://www.facebook.com/GarrettKnives?ref=hl Charter Member - Kansas Custom Knifemaker's Association www.kansasknives.org "Drawing your knife from its sheath and using it in the presence of others should be an event complete with oos, ahhs, and questions." |
#54
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Andy, I appreciate your math. Obviously it's better than mine. I did not account for any waste or squaring up in the plans. I changed the parts list to reflect the other 4". Thanks again.
Don't forget the pictures... |
#55
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Tracy; looks like a killer design, I believe I'll be ordering some plans in the future.
Andy; sounds like you having fun! Oh, and be happy you have a scrap yard that will let you buy scrap, neither of ours will. They prefer to sell by the ton and ship it out of state... And the regular steel yard sells in 10 ft. or longer... unless you get the right guy, on the right day. I spend a lot of time in "large metal object only" bins at the dumster/trash transfer sites in the area..... G. __________________ http://ak-adventurer.net/ Gary Blessing, Ex-custom knife maker, Ex-Folder modifier & embelisher. |
#56
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We have some world class scrap yards here! I'd say come and visit, but it looks like it'd be a heck of a drive!
__________________ Andy Garrett https://www.facebook.com/GarrettKnives?ref=hl Charter Member - Kansas Custom Knifemaker's Association www.kansasknives.org "Drawing your knife from its sheath and using it in the presence of others should be an event complete with oos, ahhs, and questions." |
#57
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I love kicking around a scrap yard. The one I go to here changed hands and they are cleaning the place up. All the good stuff that the yard guys threw to the side for scroungers are all getting sent out. I complained to one of the yard guys and he said he's been hearing that same thing for the last month. He doesn't care for the new owners. Who wants a clean junk yard?
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#58
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Just got back from Lowe's. I picked up all the nut and bolts for this project to include the door spring. The only thing I did not get were the machinery bushings (which I'll buy from Tracy when I order my wheels).
Per the plans, I bought the basic grade 2 stuff. The only thing I splurged on were stop nuts rather than normal ones. I didn't want to mess with Locktight fluid on something which may require several adustments as I 'tune it up'. All told, the bill came to $58 and change. That brings my total so far to about $95. Here are a few pics. The first is of the pile of stuff which will be reborn into my McGrinder! The other two are of my current setup (Multitool II on a custom frame with mutiple pulleys and a 1HP GE farm duty) I plan on a similar motor for the McGrinder though I may opt for 1.5HP this time. __________________ Andy Garrett https://www.facebook.com/GarrettKnives?ref=hl Charter Member - Kansas Custom Knifemaker's Association www.kansasknives.org "Drawing your knife from its sheath and using it in the presence of others should be an event complete with oos, ahhs, and questions." Last edited by Andrew Garrett; 12-05-2015 at 02:37 PM. |
#59
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Don't tempt me! I might just show up on your door step ready to go scroungin'.....
G. __________________ http://ak-adventurer.net/ Gary Blessing, Ex-custom knife maker, Ex-Folder modifier & embelisher. |
#60
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