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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need.

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  #16  
Old 02-20-2010, 01:41 AM
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squigly1965 squigly1965 is offline
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Ok well after scouring the web. I've decided against the Tried and True Brand. Based on availability and the overcharging of the internet retailers. By the time I pay for shipping 1 quart will cost me $40.00+. I was cringing when looking at their website and seeing it's MSRP at $25.00 figuring I would find it cheaper just because that's how it usually works. Well low and behold I found each retailer to charge more by as mush as $5.00 and I'm betting on at least $10.00 for shipping and handling. Sorry for the rant it is against the Retailers and not Tried and True the company

Anyway, I need a cheaper alternative. I like the idea of the gloss and depth building with each coat. I'll see what I can find. Or any suggestions please. Are there any Brands I should stay away from?
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  #17  
Old 02-20-2010, 09:00 AM
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NJStricker NJStricker is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by squigly1965 View Post
Ok well after scouring the web. I've decided against the Tried and True Brand. Based on availability and the overcharging of the internet retailers. By the time I pay for shipping 1 quart will cost me $40.00+. I was cringing when looking at their website and seeing it's MSRP at $25.00 figuring I would find it cheaper just because that's how it usually works. Well low and behold I found each retailer to charge more by as mush as $5.00 and I'm betting on at least $10.00 for shipping and handling. Sorry for the rant it is against the Retailers and not Tried and True the company

Anyway, I need a cheaper alternative. I like the idea of the gloss and depth building with each coat. I'll see what I can find. Or any suggestions please. Are there any Brands I should stay away from?
Try Tru-Oil. Available locally, less than $5 a bottle, and will last for many knives.

BTW, Mike Stewart used Tru-Oil on some of the first knives produced by Bark River Knife & Tool.
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  #18  
Old 02-20-2010, 09:59 AM
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squigly1965 squigly1965 is offline
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Yea I think that's what I'm going with.

Can you put a clear epoxy on top of the Tru-Oil. This has nothing to do with knives. My kid and I are going to be making a body for his bass. It's going to have a Redwood Burl Top on it. so I want to try to get some action out of the burl and protect it.
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  #19  
Old 02-20-2010, 02:10 PM
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Alan L Alan L is offline
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Tru-oil is tough enough without epoxy. Just do it in several very thin coats, allowing it to cure completely between coats. Otherwise you'll have a very sticky bass that'll never fully dry.

Surface prep is vital for a good finish. Get that wood polished as slick as possible before you even think about putting a finish on it.

Multiple coats of tru-oil will build up into a VERY high gloss finish if you do your part.
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  #20  
Old 02-21-2010, 06:21 AM
kvistads kvistads is offline
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Sorry Chris, I didn't mean to come across in a hostile way - it's just my style of writing. I failed to mention the addition of some turpentine. I think it's mainly used for a thinner. I mixed up some in a mason jar many years ago and still have most of it left even after many projects. It takes a lot of time and coats for this old method to work. You will probably be better off with the Tru-Oil. I've used it also and it does a good job - dries quicker. I wouldn't be surprised if the Tru-Oil doesn't have a lot of BLO in it. Good luck and have fun.
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Last edited by kvistads; 02-21-2010 at 08:05 AM.
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  #21  
Old 02-21-2010, 10:58 AM
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squigly1965 squigly1965 is offline
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Hey no worries Russ I was just messing with you. I knew you didn't mean it all mean and stuff.
Just having a little fun.
From what I could learn Tru-Oil has Tung oil in it and some other stuff.
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  #22  
Old 03-15-2010, 10:30 AM
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Well I've had a lotta things happening lately. But I finally got to try out the Tru-Oil. and so far I like. The gloss and depth I want is showing up just fine.
The handle I'm working on is Orange Osage. It's the second knife I've made. I stripped it because I had used Watco Teak Oil Finish on it and it always felt sticky. But now it's glossy and does not feel sticky.

Thanks everyone. This thread is kind of old but wanted to say thanks and give an update

Chris


Edited to correctly state that I found an MSDS on Tru-Oil. And it is a Linseed Oil product. Looks like about an 11% mixture

Last edited by squigly1965; 03-15-2010 at 01:03 PM.
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  #23  
Old 03-15-2010, 01:02 PM
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Glad it worked for you!

Osage and tru-oil is a nice combo.
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  #24  
Old 03-15-2010, 03:38 PM
dennie dennie is offline
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One plus for Tru Oil that hasn't been mentioned is that if it gets scratched, you just start building it back up with thin coats over the scratch. When built up, light steel wool and wax, and it will never show. There's no need to refinish the whole piece. The biggest problem with Tru Oil is with it setting up in the bottle. Any air will cause a skin. Some ways to deal with it are to drop marbles in the bottle as you use it to keep the liquid level to the top, store the bottle up side down, the skin forms at the bottom, exhale into the bottle, it's carbon monoxide so there is less oxygen and slows the formation of skin.
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  #25  
Old 12-05-2015, 10:32 PM
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Welder85 Welder85 is offline
 
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New here, but couldn't resist commenting, soaking in linseed oil is all my Great Grandfather on used. I have a hatchet that my GGF made. As it was told to me he dropped the handle in a tube full of linseed oil and left to soak for weeks. Same as anything with a wood handle. He was a master wood worker born in the late 19th century and old school was just the way you did it. My Father had a few pvc pipes capped off that he used to soak all kinds of handles in linseed oil. Not much can match it but it takes weeks or even months to do and today many don't have the patience, but just start soaking now keep some scales in a mason jar soaking till you need them, thinner scales won't take as long.
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  #26  
Old 12-11-2015, 12:57 PM
WNC Goater WNC Goater is offline
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I have thus far used BLO on my knife handles, the precious few I've made to date. Couple questions, realizing of course, this is an old thread.

Does adding multiple coats of BLO, allowing drying between, make a more useful or durable coating? Will it keep building up? I see where some recommend "soaking" for a period of time.

Is it helpful or necessary to lightly sand with like, 600 grit or fine steel wool, between coats?

Would putting the handle in a cup filled with BLO and then putting into a vacuum chamber help the oil to penetrate deeper?

Is there a way to get a nice semi-gloss or gloss finish with the BLO?

Thanks
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  #27  
Old 12-11-2015, 01:05 PM
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All of that would probably work to a degree. But, sending your wood out to be professionally stabilized will do all of that more thoroughly and with better long lasting results than any surface treatment or amateur stabilizing effort...


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  #28  
Old 12-17-2015, 02:47 AM
Johann L Johann L is offline
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I stumbled across wiping raw linseed oil onto the handle and while still 'wet' add a drop of superglue onto the wet patch of the rag and apply. reapply as many times as needed. Don't know the chemistry involved bue it cures in less than a minute
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