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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need. |
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#1
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giraffe, camel and mammoth scales
Hello,
I just bought a set of camel bone scales and was looking for some tips and methods that others use when working this stuff, i.e. cutting, sanding, polishing, grinding, drilling. I dont' want to end up with a scrap pile so homework first then we cut. Ed |
#2
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I have all of those types of scales in my shop. I haven't used any of them! (That's actually kinda funny)
Anywho..., In my own homework, I learned that one must flat grind the back (flat) side of the scale (they are scales aren't they). Get it down to desired thickness this way so as not to lose the great surface texture and figuring these materials have to offer. I would drill with the rounded side down and very well supported to prevent movement. This isn't easy. I'll use a small level to get it all straight. I'll drill through the pre-drilled holes of my tang as a guide and repeat the process for the other scale. I'll have to rig up something to insure zero movement for this operation. After that, you just profile the scale to fit the tang and sculpt any finger relief areas you want, etc. I'm sure others will have more and better tips. Good luck. __________________ Andy Garrett https://www.facebook.com/GarrettKnives?ref=hl Charter Member - Kansas Custom Knifemaker's Association www.kansasknives.org "Drawing your knife from its sheath and using it in the presence of others should be an event complete with oos, ahhs, and questions." |
#3
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What Andrew offered is good advice. In addition, with any animal product, it is very important to use sharp drills and fresh belts to generate as little heat as possible. These products can split if they get too warm. It is especially important to wear your respirator when working bone products as the dust is very fine and very bad for your lungs.
You might want to make a few handles with buffalo horn and/or some cow bone before trying your exotic materials. These materials are cheap to buy but have the same working characteristics as your expensive materials. If you can buff buffalo horn without burning it you can probably polish just about anything.... |
#4
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thanks for the info. I picked up this set of camel bone for fairly cheap (read $20 after shipping) the dimensions are 3.54" x 1.24" x 0.22" approx. It fits my sg4 hunting kit quite well with little cutting to do. Here's a photo I took of it last night.
Ed |
#5
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I picked up two sets of wooly mammoth tusk scales last spring but I am also waiting to use them. In the mean time I have been carefully learning as much as possible about working with bone products. The scales were around $45 a set so if they got messed up it would be enough to cause a grown man to cry. I have been experimenting with alot of deer antler to find out what works and what doesn't.
That camel bone is some nice looking stuff, it will be even nicer when they are on a blade. |
#6
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From your photo, I can tell that I've bought both giraffe and camel scales from that guy! Very well prepared bone! Great colors! Even dimensions.
They should work great. Just gotta get to a project where I can use 'em. Seems I've been buying all kinds of cool, exotic scales lately, but I'm using very little. Good luck! __________________ Andy Garrett https://www.facebook.com/GarrettKnives?ref=hl Charter Member - Kansas Custom Knifemaker's Association www.kansasknives.org "Drawing your knife from its sheath and using it in the presence of others should be an event complete with oos, ahhs, and questions." |
#7
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If you don't mind me asking, where'd you pick these scales up?
__________________ ______________ Regards, Jason |
#8
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bought it from theknifeguy7981 on ebay. He has alot of nice things.
Ed |
#9
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Thanks for the tip!
__________________ ______________ Regards, Jason |
#10
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Giraffe and mammoth
If he doesn't have what you want check out the McClure's at giraffebone.com
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#11
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Small world isn't it?
I've got some scales I just got from the same guy too..... and since my first piece of damascus just arived, I'll be trying to work the camel bone tomorrow.... since I'll have to do some sanding to the tops when I sand the pins flush, how do I re-polish? do I just buff it without a buffing compound? or, what compound do I use? :confused:
Later, Gary |
#12
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To fit scales of odd shapes cut youself a pieces of metal say 2" x 6" and drill a 1/2" hole through in the middle of the bar say 1" from one end. Now, place the hole to be drilled through the scale, the knife tang or liner under this hole and clamp securely. Open up your drill press vise to allow the steel bar to sit flat with the scale and tang or liner to be positioned between the jaws. Some positioning of this and the hole can be drilled with the accuracy you will want. Frank
__________________ Without collectors there would not be makers. |
#13
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OK so what's the secret of polishing to a mirror finish on this stuff?
Ed |
#14
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That can't be told, it's a secret.
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#15
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"My Life, but not the secret!" well, ok....
Here is what I know, after loosing my virginity with giraffe bone! After the scales are glued/pinned ect, (dry and ready) "I" used 36 grit belt to basic profile the handles and get the bone down close to the "full tang",,, I also used a carbide "burr" (dremil tool/ceramic tile cutter) to remove the bone material on the bottom side of the knife handle as I like a downward curve to my blades/handles making it difficult to grind. Then I go to "hand-sanding" with 80 grit self-stick sanding paper stuck on to flat and round shapes of different sizes to configure to the contures I'm working with. I go to progressive grits until I get to 400, then I lightly buff with "green" rouge,, the whole handle. Next,, take the handle to a good light source and look at the handle and turn and rotate it in this light looking for scratches. Sometimes they will apear as black due to the buffing compound. (hint here,, wd-40 takes the compound off but use just a little as it also takes off the shine) If you find scratches, go back to 120 grit and remove the scratches then work back through to 400, then back to the buffer, then back to the light and look for scratches,, a coupple of times should do it,, I use 36 -80- 120- 180-240- 320-400 sandpapers,, just for the record! If you are tempted to use "emery cloth",, be careful as you will "cut" 1" wide paths on the bone very fast, these are very hard to remove!! As a round profiler, I use rubber gas line hose slid over metal rods to keep it straight, then apply the self-stick (automotive) sandpaper to this! Works good, comes off easy, cleans up with acytone. Rubbing alchol helps the hose slide over the rod. I hope this helps,, The same method works on antler too! ---Jon
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