Dream on

[Steve]

What one, or two things would you do, if you could, to make knifemaking easier, more fun, more enjoyable? I reqalize that it's all fun and all enjoyable, but there must be something you'd change, if you could.

Well, let's identify that/those things and change them! (Or get another opinion, or technique that we are not aware of, that will make things easier/better). I know, this was kind of addressed in the "Tricks of the trade" thread, but never hurts to re-think a problem.

[AwP]

For some of my knives I have to slot a piece of wood and fit the tang down in it (it's a cross between full tang and mortised tang), and doing it by hand is a pain, especially for tapered tangs. If I had some sort of mill it'd probably be easy but I don't . If I could figure out a better way of doing this with the tools I had, or heard about an inexpensive tool for doing it, that'd certainly make finishing knives easier and more enjoyable for me.

[Steve]

Can you make a lengthwise cut on your bandsaw? Not sure I know exactly what you're up againse, can you show us a picture? Got a web site with your knives/tang showing? I'm sure some one has an idea or two. Lots of makers are able to figure these things out better than me.

[stoneman]

Andrew, what about tracing the tang with an exacto knife to the proper depth, and then using a chisel to remove the wood? :confused:

[AUBE]

dunno if im picturing the work right but if i am maybe this would help?

what about using a router with a small bit? or a zipsaw($20 from harbor freight). you could make a small table for it and clamp a guide along side the cutting bit so it will cut a nice straight line...for tapered tangs you could have one side of the guide on a pivot and swing the guide away from the bit a little and do another pass...would end up cutting a nice V taper. maybe even a dremel would work using this setup.

-Jason Aube

edit.....reread this and dont know if anyone will understand what im saying...i can draw some pics if you cant picture it.

[AwP]

Unfortunately I don't have any good pics from the angle you'd need to see what I mean, I can try to describe it though. The tangs are about 1/2"-3/4" wide, and you can see it along the spine where from a top view it looks like a full tang. If you look at the edge side of the handle, you don't see the wood at all. I can either slot a block, or use a 3 part construction with an oversized slab on each side and another slab or something else as filler between. I think the solid block looks classier but making the slot has been a pain.

I don't have a bandsaw, but the dremmel idea and the chisel idea are both within my means now, so hopefully it'll make it a little easier next time. Thanks.

[Dave Larsen]

I was going to suggest using the router setup for the Dremel too. If you could find the right sized mill that might work - except for tapered tangs! Some Randalls are built this way but I don't know what their process is for cutting the slot; I've always just assumed it was slotted on a mill.

[Dave Larsen]

For me, finishing is the least rewarding - more accurately, the least fun - part of making a knife. I've been working hard to get a good mirror finish and may finally be honing in on a process that works for me. Taking it to at least 800 grit seems to get it to the point that grey compound will take out the grinding marks. I haven't had as much luck with the cork belts as I want to so have taken to using Norax. One thing I've learned about Norax belts is that you can recharge the grit with a sharp edge of something to keep it cutting longer. I've been using cutoff scraps to break down the grit and am considering hardening some of them and then just keeping them trimmed up to maintain enough of an edge to address the belt. I knew I was saving all those cutoffs for something!

[Lloyd Hale]

To me the worst part of knifemaking is----------Cleaning my shop after completing a knife... Before I put the final polish and edge to a knife wipe off my finger prints and say done, I have to clean my shop and then go take a long soapy shower , drink some water then go back and finish the knife.... I don't know why, but this changes my whole perspective about this knife that has fought me all the way from conception to birth... I feel like a bull fighter that has been stomped on , gored and boo'd by the Crowd ,But by cleaning up and changing clothes I'm a new man doing a job.... Yes, cleaning the shop is the worst part...

[Steve]

I feel the same way. Unless I can get the kids to clean up the shop, it gets pretty ratty looking. I'll finally jump in and do it but I avoid it if possible.

That's an interesting approach to completing a knife, Lloyd. Someitmes, I just can't face the final polish-up and sharpening and just lay the knife down and come back later. Maybe if I'd get cleaned up I could clean the final procuct up a little better...... a better attitude, maybe. When one is dirty and tired, it's no fun doing those minute detail items.

Hey, I've got it! Talk about inspiration!!!!! Anyone who wants to come by and clean my shop can do it any old time!

[hammerdownnow]

What mess Lloyd?

Lloyd Hale Album

[Lloyd Hale]

Having the option to just walk out of the shop when things don't seem to be going right is one of the plus's of being a self employed knifemaker... But sometimes time runs out and I have to stand and deliver or throw myself on the sword....I can't walk out so a good hot shower and clean clothes is the answer to my self made problems... it works 9 times out of 10... I clean up pretty good...

[Frank Niro]

I did many knives in that manner. I would intall the guard and silver solder on a butt plate. The tang was a narrow flat one. I purchased a router end for a Dremel and of course a router bit to fit . I placed the scale in a vise so that its surface was level with the top of the vise. If you remove just a little wood at a time you will able to control the cutting in the slot you want to do reasonably well . Use epoxy of course when you do your final assembly and if you use pins -I used two 3/32" - do not try to rivet them down. Do the pin holes before final assembly and don't try to drill through the whole thing afterwards. You will find this will do better for you. I hope this will work for you. It worked well for me. Frank

[AwP]

Thanks Frank, I'll keep that stuff in mind next time I do one.

[Dave Larsen]

Clean yer shop!

Me too, but I tend to only do that between projects. Maybe it's because I only work an hour or two at a time, I usually come to it barely awake but fairly refreshed. I work until my wife and other domestic interruptions impose themselves. When I get to the point of sharpening and final polish I've usually waited until "tomorrow" and it's a fresh eye on the work. And when they're photographed and packed away to their new owners, it's into the shop with vacuum and Windex, put everything away so I can find it for the next round. Yay!

I love this job. Can't wait until retirement when I can do it all day long!