Joining vulcanized fibre in handles

[Rasmus Kristens]

Hello all

I'm working on ideas for a kitchenknife for my dad.
This is my idea so far.




I'm very new at this stuff, so i dont know a lot about the materials.

What would be the best way, if even possible, to join the 2 red vulcanized fibres pieces at the bolster at the front of the handle?

Would sanding with super fine grid make a nice enough connection against the other piece of vulcanized fiber?

Also, where would you sugest buying a good kitchenblade with fulltang (must be online)?

Hope you guys can help me out here.

Rasmus

[Ray Rogers]

The usual way of handling those liners is as you suspected: fine sanding and epoxy.

Most any knife supply place will have kit blades. Look at knifekits.com and knifemaking.com You probably won't find one with a full length bolster like the one in your example. Full length bolsters are a very bad idea on kitchen knives because they interfere with sharpening the rear of the blade and eventually cause the blade to get wavy at the rear....

[Rasmus Kristens]

Thank you very much Ray.

I wasn't interested in a full bolster to start with, but i find it very difficult to find kitchen blades i like, without it being 100$+ damascus steel.

The one i prefered so far was this blade: https://www.brisa.fi/portal/index.ph...oducts_id=2754

The next blade i found is this one: http://usaknifemaker.com/kit-knives-...l#.U8ovEvl_t4A

Can anyone explain to me what a blade blank means? Most of the time i see that blade blanks are not heat treated and sharpened, but some times (as in this case) its both?

Thank you for your help

[argel55]

Why make it two pieces? Take a metal ruler and score a line where you want the fold at. Bend the fold back on the side where you scored it so you have one continuous fiber liner.

[Ray Rogers]

Even though I'm not a fan of that bolster I would choose the Brisa knife over the other one because of the blade grind. The USA knife has a saber grind, meaning only the lower portion of the blade has been ground. That is no problem on a field knife and can even be an advantage for them but it is not something you want on a Chef's knife as it will usually ruin a clean slice in firm vegetable (like a radish) when you are cutting for presentation.

You can grind the bolster up by a half inch (2 cm) and solve the sharpening problem. Or, keep looking, you should be able to find that same blade with no bolster or a short bolster ...

[Rasmus Kristens]

Originally Posted by argel55

Why make it two pieces? Take a metal ruler and score a line where you want the fold at. Bend the fold back on the side where you scored it so you have one continuous fiber liner.

I thought of that idea Argel. But i just can't see it working.
If i bend the fibre one way, it will make a gap in the corner where i made the cut. And i don't think it will bend the other way.

I will have a go at it, and see what happens.

Thanks

Ray. Thanks for the info, i didn't even think about the grind on the US blade. Makes a lot of sense though :-)
I will keep looking.

Have a nice weekend both of you.

[Fulmaduro]

Originally Posted by Rasmus Kristens

I thought of that idea Argel. But i just can't see it working.
If i bend the fibre one way, it will make a gap in the corner where i made the cut. And i don't think it will bend the other way.

I thought it wouldn't bend the other way also. But what if you carefully make that cut at a 45 degree angle and cut out a small wedge. Probably would work then. Just my 2 cents.

Also try http://www.crazycrow.com/knife-blades for some blades. I started out making a Green River Belt Knife from one of their blades and it is a sharp nice blade. They also have some butcher blades in there. Didn't see any chef blades though. Good luck!

Tony Z
Kansas City, MO

[racjarrett88]

glue a piece of fiber on the end of wood and sand flush then glue the other on and sand it flush perfect joint