Tool Time Let's talk shop. Equipment, Tips & Tricks, Safety issues - Post it here. |
04-19-2012, 05:26 PM
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Enthusiast
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: North Central Texas
Posts: 65
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I have little bubles, but they're on the outside edges from compression differential. I have had tiny bubbles happen when I wrap a tang. (Get the tang roughed with 60 grit mix resin to hardener dip fabric strip into resin and wrap tang, looks sweet just haven't perfected my hardener-resin ratio)
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04-19-2012, 08:21 PM
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Master
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Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan Canada
Posts: 859
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdale
I haven't noticed any bubbles in mine, I am thinking the bubbles are a result of your application method. How do you apply the resin to your fiber?
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The first layer I dip right into the resin then every other layer I just pour some resin on and spread it around with my fingers sort of squeegy the resin around if you know what I mean. I use lots of resin to make sure everything is saturated. Then I clamp it between two 1.5" thick steel plates in our 8" vice and crank it right up.
If you guys want a resin with more working time you should go to a fiberglass shop that does vacuum bagging they should have a resin that has about an hour work time. Thats what I use, its a bit thinner then the standard polyester resin but still works good.
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04-20-2012, 10:38 PM
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Skilled
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Lansing MI
Posts: 471
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Your method sounds just like mine. I can think of a few possible contributing to your bubble issue. You might be introducing air into the resin during mixing, you could try using a bondo squeegee to chase out any entrapped air, or you could try tightening the vice/clamps more to force out any extra bubbles.
Has anyone tried bondo fiberglass resin for there denim micarta? If so, how were your results. I finished off this handle the other day I, it concerns me that if i get it wet it feels different and the color darkens. I think its the out side exposed layer of fabric absorbing water. It returns to normal after dry, but i was wondering if there is something i can use to seal it up?
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04-20-2012, 11:24 PM
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Master
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Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan Canada
Posts: 859
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That turned out really nice man!
I will try the squeegie next time I make some. I couldnt clamp it any tighter then I had it lol. I made 24 layers less then 3/8" thick. I used a big 8" vice to clamp it with all my might. the other batch I made I clamped with 5 vice grips and its over 1/2" thick.
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04-21-2012, 11:28 PM
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Enthusiast
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: North Central Texas
Posts: 65
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Nest time I make some, I'm wearing a respirator and an extreme exhaust fan. And when it comes to sanding, can it be done wet? The particulate (I was wearing a dust mask) made me sick, like feel like death for 3 days sick
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04-22-2012, 12:14 AM
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Master
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Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan Canada
Posts: 859
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hayden H
Nest time I make some, I'm wearing a respirator and an extreme exhaust fan. And when it comes to sanding, can it be done wet? The particulate (I was wearing a dust mask) made me sick, like feel like death for 3 days sick
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I'm sure you could wet sand it man just dont let it stay wet any longer then needen thats all. Its weird how different things bother different people. I can work with polyester all day and i'm fine as far as feeling like death goes lol. If your having a tough time with polyester maybe epoxy would be a bit more friendly on you. Here is what my micarta looked like after I ground it down and polished it. It turns out that they are not bubbles but it seems like they are little white particles that might have been right in the cotton to start with . . . Not slackers micarta on the other time!!! that stuff looks great!!!!
Last edited by metal99; 04-22-2012 at 09:12 AM.
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04-22-2012, 12:20 PM
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Master
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Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Cebu, Philippines (or Michigan, USA)
Posts: 909
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hayden H
Nest time I make some, I'm wearing a respirator and an extreme exhaust fan. And when it comes to sanding, can it be done wet? The particulate (I was wearing a dust mask) made me sick, like feel like death for 3 days sick
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Yes you can sand it wet. Polyester resin is often used for building boats, surfboards, etc...which spend a fair amount of time in the water.
Careful with the dust. some people have more of an allergic reaction to it than others. In severe cases it can even kill you.
Also from what I've read the more exposure you have to it, the worse it can become....even if you had no allergy to it to begin with. It didn't bother me at first, now, a few years later, it itches like crazy when it gets on my skin. Minimizing your exposure to it reduces the chances of developing an allergy.
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04-22-2012, 01:04 PM
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Enthusiast
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: North Central Texas
Posts: 65
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So a class what respirator is needed?
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04-22-2012, 01:11 PM
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Master
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Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan Canada
Posts: 859
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I would get a good 3m or norton (north?) charcoal/particulate respirator. Make sure that when your not using it you keep it in a container or sealed bag because the charcoal keeps working till its full so you have to seal it up when not using it. The rule of thumb is it has 8 hours of work time once exposed to air.
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04-22-2012, 10:59 PM
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Enthusiast
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: North Central Texas
Posts: 65
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So thered be no point in trying to seal it up, when I start working and put on a mask, I work until the early AM hours
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04-22-2012, 11:50 PM
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Master
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Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan Canada
Posts: 859
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sounds like something I do almost every time I work on the knives lol. I just put in about 12 hours today
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04-23-2012, 05:02 PM
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Enthusiast
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: North Central Texas
Posts: 65
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Start at around noon, go in at 1 or 2 in the AM
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04-23-2012, 09:10 PM
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Master
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Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Cebu, Philippines (or Michigan, USA)
Posts: 909
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One thing you could do is set up an exhaust hood to grab the fumes and direct them elsewhere. I set one up when I was doing aluminum anodizing and it worked very well. Without it the fumes would fill up the room in a matter of minutes and burn your lungs, with it running you couldn't even detect fumes. I suspect it would work as well for resin fumes.
That won't help much when sanding but it would help with fumes when doing the actual layup....which is when most of the styrene evaporates.
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04-23-2012, 09:18 PM
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Enthusiast
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: North Central Texas
Posts: 65
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Alright boys, got another handle done with a micarta wrap. Sanded it down, looks pretty nice theirs tiny bubbles in one spot, I'll try to post pics tomorrow. And 3rd times the charm, finally had a reaction to the stupid resin
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04-23-2012, 11:40 PM
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Master
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Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan Canada
Posts: 859
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Its funny how it affects people differently. Lots of my wifes family is involved in the fiberglass industry and it doesnt bother them at all but some other people I know that they had working for them broke out in no time.
Hayden, I can't wait to see the pics!!!
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