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The S.R. "Steve" Johnson Forum Specialized knife making tips, technique and training for "ultra precision" design work enthusiasts.

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  #1  
Old 07-17-2013, 02:33 PM
TWITHERS TWITHERS is offline
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Top Edge Thickness?

I am making a loveless style fighter. I am using 1/4" ATS 34. I know when I finish the cutting edge should be .020-.030 thick but how thick should the top edge be back at the plunge cut? I was thinking around .070 and taper down to the clip. Maybe there is a kind of rule here like 1/3 the bar stock thickness?
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Old 07-17-2013, 02:55 PM
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What do u mean? Are you doing a full height grind?
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Old 07-17-2013, 09:43 PM
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I thought I might not have explained my question very well. No I am making a double ground blade. In Steve's video the top grind of the fighter is not ground thin enough to sharpen but the clip is so there is a taper from the plunge cut to the clip. So at the clip end the thickness is about .025 but how thick would it be at the thick end of the taper, at the plunge end? I hope that is more clear. Thanks for any help I might get. This number is probably not set in stone but any help from others who have made one these would be appreciated. I have made a couple already but just curious if I am doing it correctly as I have not actually seen one except for pictures and Steve's video. For me this taper is not the easiest grind I can tell you that much about it.
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Old 07-22-2013, 10:14 AM
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.070" would be a good thickness. The Big Bear that I am making right now, though it is not polished yet, is .060-.070" about 1" ahead of the plunge, with it tapering thicker as it approaches back to the plunge at .100" + or -. You just need a taper from the plunge out to the beginning of the clip, where it is around .020" and is sharpened. Not a big deal, just a nice taper from rear toward the clip.
It really is not the easiest grind, you are working on about 4 different planes from the plunge to the tip, so if it's frustrating, that's normal and with practice it becomes easier, though it will continue to be a challenge, as is knifemaking, in general, which is why we do this stuff. (Realizing that "challenge" is relative, of course. To some this part of making a knife is really tough, to others, another part is hard. We all have different talents and abilities, not to mention eyesight, coordination, goals, etc.)


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Last edited by Steve; 07-22-2013 at 10:17 AM.
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Old 05-06-2015, 01:47 PM
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Try it on a New York Special, no thickness, no length - blade is only about an inch longer than the wheel - tough!


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Last edited by Steve; 05-09-2015 at 02:05 AM. Reason: typo
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Old 05-08-2015, 01:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve View Post
Try it on a New York Special, no thickness, no length - blade is only about an inch longer than the wheel - tough!
I can attest to that!


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Last edited by Steve; 05-09-2015 at 02:05 AM. Reason: typo
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Old 05-09-2015, 02:06 AM
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Concentration is necessary....!


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Old 05-10-2015, 07:15 AM
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Quote:
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Concentration is necessary....!
Yes sir, but it's worth it!


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Old 05-14-2015, 12:30 PM
TWITHERS TWITHERS is offline
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As stated by Steve above different things will be easier or more difficult for different people. For me the longer knives, the Big Bear, is a little more difficult. Keeping your hand steady and making those little changes in position through a longer blade. That's tough for me.
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