Just what is the best glue?

[Bernez]

A.T.,

Of course they play golf up here
After searching Google and some others, I found nothing on shafting epoxy.
You must not forget that we, up here, don't have all the stuffs which are available in The States.

Bernez

[Steve]

There ought to be a way. Can you ahve them ship it to me and then I can perhaps send it to you. Let me check the P.O. regs., OK? I see that Global Priority runs $10 for 1 lb. I don't see any regs. that would prohibit the shipment of glue. Unless it has a queen bee inside.....lol.

http://ircalc.usps.gov/speed.asp?Cou...nue&Contents=1

Note links re: prohibitions, restrictions, etc.

[Cold Steel Cult]

I'm still hooked on JB Weld... not the prettiest color though!

[A T Barr]

Originally Posted by Bernez

A.T.,

Of course they play golf up here
After searching Google and some others, I found nothing on shafting epoxy.
You must not forget that we, up here, don't have all the stuffs which are available in The States.

Bernez

If there are golfers and I know there are cause they beat the US in the Ryder Cup last year .

Call your local golf course and ask for the names of a few club makers.

Good Luck,

A.T.

[SL Knives]

I have used the shafting epoxy, and like it for applications where a thinner epoxy works good, such as hidden tangs when you want it to flow in a hole. It is very strong from what I can see- I have never had a problem with it. Also reasonable in cost. Not quite as convienient as some for mixing- the correct ratio is important for proper curing and strenth.

I also like Conap industrial strenth epoxy sold by Sheffield Supply. It is a little thicker and is convienient to mix by just squeazing equal length beads from each tube. You can get it in opaque, white, black, or optically clear. Works good where you want it to stick and not run off a surface, such as on full tang/slab handle applications. The black works great for attaching black micarta or black woods directly to steel, etc. you just won't see any hairline gaps.

[Steve]

The shaft epoxy comes in the syringe style of applicator and this might help in getting the proper mixing amts.

[Steve]

FYI: I ordered a syringe of the Golf Smith epoxy. They have many types, but all have approximately the same lap shear strength of 2850 psi. Some take up to two days to cure, others an hour. I got the 30/60 (useable in 30 min. cured in 60 min.) for our friend in The Netherlands for a total of $18.05 shipped to me. He said that cure time does not necessarily determine strength, which was interesting to know.

Hope it works. He also said that he'd try to find an article regarding epoxies used in the manuf. of golf clubs. If I get it, I'll post it.

[brad90049]

The specs I've read say an accurate mix ratio is VERY important to the strength of the resulting joint. For small amounts or for unimportant joints, I'll just squeeze out equal globs by eye, but for larger amounts I use a small plastic cup and weigh both portions with a small electronic scale.

I put the empty cup on the scale and hit the zero button. Then I add one of the components and note the weight. (At this stage you can add in any coloring you need so it doesn't interfere with the working time) Finally add enough of the second component to equal the weight of the first component. What I generally do is double the weight of the first component and add the second component until the scale reads that number.

Tips

Try a jewelry supply store for the scale (around $60)
Buy a stack of 1/2 oz plastic cups in a restaurant supply store (only about $2)
Use coffee plastic stirrers or large toothpicks for mixing
Don't use the same stick for applying mixed epoxy to your work
Cure the work at an elevated temperature (~ 100-120F)

Hope this helps

- Brad Smith
Los Angeles

[aiiifish]

Steves what did you find the locktite under on Mcmaster. I tried all the different name combo's with no luck. Didnt see it on the product page either........

[Steve]

Wow, that's careful epoxy mixing, I have to shape up!

I mix mine on Post-it? notes or a note pad, then just tear off the gooey sheet and toss it, or set it adside for inspection after the cure time is up. Thanks for all the tips. Shipped the shaft epoxy to Bernez and he's got it now. Maybe you can report when you've tested it a bit?

[SteveS]

aiiifish,

I bought the HP-120 from McMaster. I've run one test with it. Amazing stuff I must say! I attached brass to Hardended ATS-34. It took several hammer (32 oz hammer and light blows) blows to break it free. Considering brass and stainless are much harder to bond than say carbon steel and aluminum - I was impressed.

I'm going to run a complete side-by-side test with it real soon to see how it holds up compared to other adhesives.

But, to me it is more important that whatever it is, holds up in different environments (heat, wet, occasional impact, ...), than it's holding strength.

Steve

[aiiifish]

I've used every name combo available at mcmaster and cant get it to come up. Its not listed as one of the numbers for the loctite products on their products page. Any suggestions?

[SteveS]

I looked it up again - (Only for you Steve, only for you.)

It's on their catalog page 3169. I got the model number wrong:

Loctite calls it E-120HP
and McMaster has it as 6430A24

You have to order the dispensing gun too get any of the junk out. It's pricy, but ...

According to the Loctite data sheet, temperatures in 400 range only make it stronger!

Steve
Steve

[aiiifish]

Thanks Steve.

I appriciate it.

[RJ Martin]

The Loctite E120 HP is good stuff. I've used it before. Only thing I don't like is that it's a bit too thick. gets pricey in the dispenser tubes, too. But, it is convenient.