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  #1  
Old 01-06-2004, 11:16 AM
ErikD ErikD is offline
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GX6 Bolsters

I just got my GX6 kit! Looks really nice, can't wait to get started. Before I rush off and get myself into trouble I wanted to ask a couple of quick questions.

I am planning on making damascus bolsters for this kit. I noticed that the kit bolsters have a recess drilled into them, I am guessing to clear the pivot screws. What is the best way to make these in my new bolsters? Drill through the old bolsters as a guide?

Secondly, I want to put a mirror polish, or near mirror polish on the blade. I know I need to use hand sanding and elbow grease, but what grits should I go thorugh? I am thinking maybe 220, 400, 600, 1000, 1500.

Still waiting on my order from Koval for the bolsters and gold plated screws before I can really start. Thanks in advance.


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  #2  
Old 01-06-2004, 12:30 PM
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SharpByCoop SharpByCoop is offline
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Re: GX6 Bolsters

Quote:
Originally posted by ErikD
I am planning on making damascus bolsters for this kit. I noticed that the kit bolsters have a recess drilled into them, I am guessing to clear the pivot screws. What is the best way to make these in my new bolsters? Drill through the old bolsters as a guide?
I wouldn't ruin a nice set to get this transfered. Use a piece of masking tape and stick it on the back and trim the outline. press or draw or cutout the depression. Remove and transfer the pattern over onto the damascus version. Done. Get drilling.
Quote:
Secondly, I want to put a mirror polish, or near mirror polish on the blade. I know I need to use hand sanding and elbow grease, but what grits should I go thorugh? I am thinking maybe 220, 400, 600, 1000, 1500.
Yes.

You have it nailed. Now keep us posted. Hope you bought two...!

Coop


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  #3  
Old 01-06-2004, 12:35 PM
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Osprey Guy Osprey Guy is offline
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Hey Eric-

When you get those bolsters (I suspect you're getting Eggerling's if they're coming from Koval), the first thing you're gonna need to do is no small thing...sand them down to the proper thickness. Even if you have a grinder, this is a fair amount of work if you want to make sure they're equal to each other...and to each corner of the squares (it's best to start with equal thickness all around, then you can shape to your tastes later on).

After you get that done, clamp or glue (with drop of CA) to your liners and use the pivot holes (and screw holes while you're at it) as your guide...mark carefully, you'd be surprised how being just a little off can affect your fit later on.

Use a punch to get started, then a pivot hole for accuracy. Then on to a 1/4 inch drill,...use one with a shallow angled tip (careful not to go too deep...you don't want to break through the other side). Then you can do one of two things...For a real clean hole use a 1/4" end mill. Or you can finish cleaning out the bottom with a dremel.

Drill your screws holes much the same as above, except you have to allow for countersink. Make sure and do all this while your bolsters are still square. Do not shape them until all the above is done.

After shaping and fine sanding to around 600 grit then etch th damascus, being careful to mask off the screw hole and the edge where the bolster will butt the scales (if the acid eats away at that edge, you'll be left with a gap).

Making damascus bolsters if real satisfying...but a pain (at least for the first few ).

Good luck! Make sure and post pics.


Dennis Greenbaum

Yeah Baby!


PS. Your grits are fine...they'll get you real close....you'll still need to polish for that mirror finish.
  #4  
Old 01-06-2004, 12:37 PM
ErikD ErikD is offline
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I just went to the shop and made a test scale out of some micarta scrap I had. I am thinking of using it when working on my bolsters to prevent damage to my MOP scales. I noticed a few things in the process:

1. On the KnifeKits.com FAQ it says drill a pilot hole through the liner with a 1/16 bit, but I found this to be to large. What size do you use? I just pulled out my next smallest bit, a #61, which was to small.

2. I am using a Craftsman drill press and a cheap cros slide vise from MSC. I was able to get my clearance hole and counter bore done without drilling through the scale. On my past projects using a hand drill I was never able to do this. My problem with this setup though is that my counterbores are off by maybe .002" or so. Is this just do to the inaccuarcy of my equipment?

3. I could use the scale as a guide to drill the clearence hole in my bolster, DUH!

Since I am using MOP for the scales would it be safe to use a drop of super glue to hold the scale and liner together as I drill?


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  #5  
Old 01-06-2004, 01:03 PM
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Osprey Guy Osprey Guy is offline
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The 1/16" is fine for a pilot. Do yourself a favor and get one of the stepdrills from knifekits.com:
http://www.knifekits.com/store/s-pag...main.htm~smain

They make the process so much easier...(although they suggest not using in metal, I find that the damascus is soft enough that it's not a problem. I bought one of these over 6 months ago and am just now ready to buy a new one).

You do mean you're using the liner as a guide?...:confused:

I would not use super glue with your MOP...too easy to chip off a piece from the back when you try to remove from the liners. I'd clamp those.


Dennis Greenbaum

Yeah Baby!
  #6  
Old 01-06-2004, 01:26 PM
ErikD ErikD is offline
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Yes, I am using the liners as a guide. As I understand the process you clamp or glue the liner to the scale material, then use the 1/16" bit to drill a pilot hole through the liner and scale. But the 1/16 bit seemed like it was just a hair to large, and would make the hole in the liner slightly larger, and thus damage the threads.


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  #7  
Old 01-06-2004, 03:07 PM
ErikD ErikD is offline
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I thought I had this project all planned out, but now that I have the kit in my hands I see more questions than answers. I was just thinking about the liners, or to be more exact what to do with them. I see in my mind a nicely polished blade, eggerling damasucus bolsters, MOP scales and gold screws holding it all together. Now I turn this knife slightly(in my mind of course!), and the liners are sticking out like a sore thumb! The bead blasted finish they come with just won't fit with the rest of the knife. Any recommendations on how I can make them fit in better, and I don't really want to try doing filework just yet. Thanks again.


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  #8  
Old 01-06-2004, 03:32 PM
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Jamey Saunders Jamey Saunders is offline
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Maybe engine turn (jewel) them? Polish them up and heat blue them? Replace them with titanium and anodize? (O.K. -- maybe that last one is a little too ambitious... I got carried away.)

Seriously, you can do pretty much anything you want. If you don't like the bead blast finish, change it. Polish them (just like you'd do to the blade), engine turn them, or heat blue them. (Or all three!) Whatever your mind can imagine, you can do. Some things just take longer than others.


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  #9  
Old 01-13-2004, 07:51 PM
ErikD ErikD is offline
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Dennis,

I just finished up my first bolster, sure was a lot of work but hopefully the end result will be worth it. I just had a quick question on etching. I am planning on using the ferric chloride sold by Radio Shack as a circuit board etchant. I know that they use a sharpie as a resist, could I use the same thing on the areas I don't want to get etched? Or would something else work better?


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  #10  
Old 01-13-2004, 10:14 PM
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Osprey Guy Osprey Guy is offline
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Erik-

I use nail polish...When finished just remove with acetone (which is the basic ingrdient in nail polish remover).

With my wife and daughter around, there's no shortage of bottles of polish that are no longer in favor...(Heaven help me if I were to take a good one). Last year, I forgot to buy acetone...went looking for polish remover in my daughter's room in the dark. Brought it downstairs and went at it...My whole shop started smelling funny...especially the knife........The nail polish remover was strawberry flavored!


Dennis Greenbaum

Yeah Baby!
 

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