Offering To Build An Electro Etcher For Newbies

[GHNorfleet]

I would be willing to build anyone one of the electro etching machines that are on Chris Crawfords website if those of you who want one either don't have the time or the skill to build it yourself. I don't build these for a living and am not looking to make any money for this, just for the time I spend on it and I am just offering to gather the parts and put it together for anyone who wants one. The price for this service will be $125 plus shipping and testing out the unit before it leaves the shop. It will look like this one I built for myself. Just email me if anyone wants one. Email address is: gilbertnorfleet@norfleetcustomknives.com

[Frankallen]

Now that's a Deal!!!

Frank

[dbalfa]

Do you notice that the transformer (listed on his site ) seems "hot" ? I have watched Bob Dark use his, which he built by a similar sites instruction, and his works "cooler" that mine. I have to shorten my etch times and be careful to remove the block between cycles to allow it to cool or I will burn up my stencils. I am thinking it is a 24volt transformer rather than 12volt- and Im not smart enough to cut the voltage... The tranformer is listed as 12-2, so Im thinking it can be wired single voltage as 12 or double at 24?
OR
Maybe I'm just expressing my ignorance... either way, I would caution folks to be careful and be willing to ruin at least one stencil getting used to your unit.

[pipecrafter]

I actually used a 25V 450mA transformer in mine. The schematic and most tutorials call for a 2A transformer, but this one works great. I got everything I needed at Radio Shack:





At least one schematic that's out there does reverse + and -, so keep that in mind. I got burned by that one and had a heck of a time figuring what was wrong until I hooked up the multi-meter. Past that, it's dead simple. The only thing missing is a grommet on the case rear to keep the power cable from scuffing.

[DaveRuhlig]

Kurt-
I think I may be have the reverse +- issue with mine. Where did you find the problem and what did you do to correct it? Thanks!
-Dave

[dbalfa]

Dave - I did the same thing....and not trying to sound like a Smart A.... I just switched my lables on the current switch. or you could spin the switch around.

[pipecrafter]

Actually, it isn't the switch that's at fault. The + and - leads coming off the bridge rectifier are fine where they are, but as you build the unit, the + lead should go to the CLIP not the pad. The reason is that, in order to etch, you want the migration of electrons to flow OUT of the steel and get dissolved by the etching solution. If the + is at the pad, electrons will flow into the steel at the area where you're trying to mark, and the steel won't get dissolved - you'll just get a black mark that can be easily wiped off.

The solution is to swap the pad and clip leads. Make sure - is the pad, and + is the clip.

[dbalfa]

Well, mine wasn't just making black marks. I was etching but not putting the black back into the etching....I just was doing the wrong thing first. Seems like a pattern fer me...

[DaveRuhlig]

Thanks guys! I'll put a meter to mine and see what I come up with (probably should have done that a long time ago). I'm getting black marks and even a little etch, but burning up stencils like you wouldn't believe. what are you guys using for pad material?

[pipecrafter]

Dave, that sounds like the exact problem I had before I threw the meter on it and realized the problem - black marks, minor etch, toasty stencils. Try switching your leads.

For pad material I just grabbed a square of black felt from my wife's sewing materials. I experimented with paper towels, but that didn't provide consistent results. I've seen these squares of felt at craft stores, probably costs a dollar or two. Is big enough to make several pads for etchers.

[Traok]

I think I will get MR.Gilbert to assemble one of these for me What else will I need to look at getting with this. I know the stencil. BUt Ive heard talk of pads.. I am sure some kind of liquid Etc.. Sorry for the newbish question

[pipecrafter]

You will need stencils, and etchant. I use etchant from McMaster-Carr, which I think is the same stuff that Etch-o-matic sells. I hear you can use salty vinegar as an etchant.

The "pad" is the negative side of the circuit. I used a piece of 3/4"x1.5"x3/32" 316 stainless soldered to the lead wire, and made a piece out of wood to hold it.

[GHNorfleet]

Traok, you can send the money through PayPal and the total will be $125 plus $8 for shipping. You can use this email address: gilbertnorfleet@norfleetcustomknives.com to send the money to. As soon as payment is made I will get started on your unit and it will take me a couple of days to complete everything. I will make the pad and everything for you and send you some extra material (felt) to make replacement pads out of. I use the blue etch o matic stencils to make all my logos and etchings out of my own artwork. Just print it out onto transparency sheets and follow the directions with the etch o matic stencils.

[Traok]

Has anyone else... crossing fingers.. ordered one of these? I havnt heard from him since I placed the order. I know these things take time just wondering if anyone else got ahold of him

At any rate

Be well

Traok

[GHNorfleet]

Your electro etcher is almost finished, just putting the final parts together and will test it this evening and ship it out. Thanks again.