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  #1  
Old 01-12-2009, 12:28 PM
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SVanderkolff SVanderkolff is offline
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multiple pieces of MOP

I want to attach 4 different pieces of Mother of Pearl for a scale on a folder. there will be no metal around them to form the outside of an inlay pocket. I was thinking of epoxying them to a piece of the vulcanized liner material and then screwing the whole thing to the titanium knife liners. WOuld that work? Has anyone tried this? ______________________________________ | \ / \ \
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Old 01-12-2009, 12:29 PM
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Well the picture didn't look anything like it did on the input form but hopefully you can figure out what I meant.
Steve


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Old 01-12-2009, 01:20 PM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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You didn't mention why there wouldn't be any frame around the MOP but I expect you must be thinking there's a good reason why MOP is usually used inside a frame especially when multiple pieces are used.

Sure, your idea will work but it will be incredibly delicate. So, if this is a collector's knife - the type that won't ever be handled again after it's placed in a display case - then it might survive. But, that fiber backing will be flexible as would even a thin strip of metal. Anything glued to a flexible backing will pop loose. Yes, I know the flexible backing will be screwed to the knife handle. There will still be flex. Maybe if you put a screw in each piece of the MOP but that really won't solve the whole problem either.

Bottom line: if you require any kind of durability from this knife the MOP parts need to be in some kind of frame, supported on all sides, and protected from anything being able to snag on their edges ........


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Old 01-12-2009, 02:07 PM
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The reason there wouldn't be a frame around the mother of pearl is that I don't know how to make one. Well, that then creates another opportunity for learning. Where would I find information on the creation of a metal frame to go around the mother of pearl?
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Old 01-12-2009, 05:56 PM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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Usually the frame is formed by cutting a pocket (inlay style) or a hole in the side of the knife handle (interframe style). In an ideal world, a mill would be used to make these pockets or holes but a Dremel can do the job if you are patient and careful.

I don't know of any tutorial on the subject but check the Sticky at the top of the Newbies Forum and you might find one. There's no magic to it though. Basically, make a shallow hole in the outline of your MOP pieces and fit the pieces into the hole. Epoxy is the minimum requirement for holding the pieces. Advanced methods would include beveling the edges of the hole and the MOP - this is usually done on the interframe style where the hole goes through the handle. The mop is inserted from the back side of the handle but can't pass through because of the bevel. For multiple pieces, a backing should be used to hold things together ........


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Old 01-12-2009, 06:38 PM
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There is an inlay tutorial floating around somewhere online but I can't for the life of me think of where it is. It was a pretty simple method using basic jigs and a carbide cutter in a drill press. Supposed to get pretty accurate results. I will keep wracking my brain for where I saw it, but hopefully someone else comes by that knows where it is.

You can also use silver sheet/wire and solder.
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Old 01-12-2009, 06:47 PM
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AUBE
Any idea on a tutorial on the silve sheet and wire. I have never worked with either.
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Old 01-12-2009, 07:59 PM
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Nope, sorry Steve. I don't know of any tutorials on the silver work. I've only fiddled with it once or twice years ago and I got my info from a jewelry making book. I had a few of these books but I think the one that had the best description of the process was Creative Gold And Silversmithing by Sharr Choate. You might be able to pick it up online for a few bucks. I'm not entirely sure it was that book that outlined the process but I remember that book being the most helpful out of the few jewelrymaking books that I used to have.

Also this isn't the tutorial I mentioned earlier but it's very similar.....and right here in the workshop section of knifenetwork. It's pretty much the same basic idea as the other tutorial I was thinking of. http://knifenetwork.com/workshop/tut..._charity.shtml
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Old 01-12-2009, 09:03 PM
Frank Niro Frank Niro is offline
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Hi Steve.
I have done many folders with fitted pieces of pearl. Go to customknifegallery.com and scroll down the makers list on the left hand side to find me. I have three pearl knives made with sections at the bottom of the listings Bob Glassman has for me. I call these swallow tails and carry the last one in a leather case in my out of the shop clothes. Pearl is NOT delicate. It's about as hard as bone and does wear on the belts but no matter, I just say this to give you an idea it is tough enough. I believe the liner material will do well with good glue. You can see I sectioned on piece inside the other and then the two screws still became the positioners but the assemble presses the peaces against each other. I used the "crazy" glue to do this. It's very effective in this job.
There is an entry by Loyd Hale in the forums how he uses the thin strips of nickel siver for his fantastic multiple pearl pieces of work. Hope this helps some. Frank


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Old 01-13-2009, 11:29 AM
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Frank
That is perfect. Now I have something to aspire to and to use as a guide. What do you use between the locking liner and the pearl?
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  #11  
Old 01-13-2009, 03:53 PM
Frank Niro Frank Niro is offline
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Steve.
I will go through the assembly the way I do it. It may be over simplified but you know I just want to help.
I position and fit at this time the first piece against the bolster which of course has had the bottom sanded to flat. I do drill and screw it down. If this piece is going to reach back past the back scale screw in some area I also install this back screw. I now grind with a 220 grit to size to the outline edge of the liners. The scale is now removed and cut to accept the second piece. At this time the scale for the other liner is marked from the one first out and is cut to match. The next piece is now fitted but left a bit oversize in length. These pieces are now removed from the scales placed on a very flat surface with a piece of ordinary thin plastic grocery bag on the flat surface and are carefully positioned. This will stop the crazy glue from sicking on the lower surface. I now use the crazy glue . Usually I use the thick first and then the thin. Use enough but try not to go way overboard. This stuff dries fast but after waiting a few minutes I spray it with the faster drying spray. The pieces are then sanded flat and smooth on the bottom side and are prepared for the next piece if there is to be one.
If you find that the back screw hole turns out to be in a bad place - after of course trying to plan a bit ahead - the this can easily be corrected by removing this hole. Well, if you are using titanium for the liners and have some 1/16" or 3/32" rod on hand. Drill the holes out and install a plug by rivetting it in place and the sanding it done. If you use the engine turning and because of the positioning this adjustment will not be visible.
So now the assembled scale is attached to the liner the back end is ground to the edge of the scale and is finished ground to the top of the bolster and shape desired. I hope this helps !!! If anyone wants more, just ask !!! Frank


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Old 01-15-2009, 07:21 AM
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Our late Australian friend, Neil Charity, did a most excellent tutorial on interframes for this forum.


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Old 01-20-2009, 06:01 PM
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Like this.

http://www.knifeart.com/golkojfol.html#


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