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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need. |
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#1
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Question on attaching thin butt cap
Hey y'all! Don't post much on here, but read through every day. Have found so much valuable info on every site. I've been doing thick butt caps by drilling, tapping and then screwing on to threaded tang. It's worked well but now would like to do a thin (1/8") cap on antler handle. How 'bout some thoughts on how to best do this? Thanks in advance.
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#2
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Rick, One thing ive done with that very same setup with antler and 1/8" cap is take a small screw, maybe 3/4" long and JB weld the head to the butcap, drill a hole in the antler to accommodate the screw. Youll have to do a recess in the antler to accommodate the head of the screw also. Fill the hole with JB weld and a some on the end of the andtler and your set. Never had any problems doing it that way.
Good luck Shane |
#3
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That looks pretty simple! How about small threaded rod? Will JB Weld fasten steel and nickel silver? Was thinking the threads would give the same holding advantage or a screw. Gues you're just using the screw as a post into the antler. Thanks!
Rick |
#4
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Rick, Get some threaded collars from K&G and some silver solder to attach them with and use a propane torch and solder them on the pommel. A trick to make this work easer is to clamp the collar and pommel together with a C clamp. Then proceed like you have been.
Gib |
#5
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Another style you could try if you wanted was to peen the cap on. Drill a hole for the tang to stick through, and peen it so the cap is held on tightly.
__________________ ~Andrew W. "NT Cough'n Monkey" Petkus |
#6
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My way is less.....elegant, but works well.
drill a small hole in the antler, and weld/JB weld a nail to the cap, and grind it so its short, sharp, and barbed. put it in the small hole, and smash it in a bit. the antler should accomidate, but there is risk of cracking. for added staying power, fill the little hole with JB weld. its great stuff, that JB weld! |
#7
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Quote:
__________________ ~Andrew W. "NT Cough'n Monkey" Petkus |
#8
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ugly grey? its beautiful!
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#9
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Drill the cap and antler (together) for an 1/8" x (say) 3/4" pin. Solder the pin flush in the cap, grind/polish it to invisibility. JB it into the antler.
Mark |
#10
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LOL at metalking... It may be a bit ugly but ive had a very hard time soldering to wood lol. Ive done them just using epoxy on the bottom of the knife to hold it on. But i use the very strong industrial strength stuff not the hardware store over the counter.
P.S. Has anyone noticed on the JB weld box it says JB weld was used to repair a 20 ton jack or something to that sort.... I find that very untrue, i used it to repair a drillpress and the second i took the clamp off the next day it fell apart..... Guess they just re attached the plastic handle on it or something lol. __________________ Knives can only be as sharp as their maker, So keep on hammering. "All men die, Not all men really live." William Walace Last edited by DanCrabtree; 01-19-2005 at 09:06 PM. |
#11
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Dont know about multi ton presses, but I do know a farmer that used it to repair a cracked block on a tractor, its been running fine for several years! I use JB on all my hidden tang handles, Ive heard acra glass is a great one too, just havnt used it. Another great Ive heard about is golf club shafting glue, it used to attatch golf club heads, so it has to take impact pretty well, but again Ive never tried it!
On the butt cap, I agree with Gib. I get threaded colers from Lowes. They need to be ground to clean metal (think they are zinc coated) then braze this to my but cap. And he is right on track with the C clamp, it work like a charm! Another trick I learned is to get a large brass screw with a standard tapered head, start with a thicker butt cap, recess your hole so the screw will set in it flush, drill a small pilot hole in your handle, may not need to in antler, then screw the butt cap on remove the screw, fill with JB, rescrew let dry, then grind to shape. Grinding down on the end of the butt cap untill the head of the screw is solid brass again, If the fit is good and tight, it isnt noticable at all! Note: Keep the piece cooled down while grinding, as too much heat can weaken even JB weld! I would be leary of just glueing a buttcap on no matter what type of epoxie was used without somekind of mechanical attatchment. Just my $0.02 God Bless Mike __________________ "I cherish the Hammer of Thor, but I praise the hand of God" |
#12
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what does a threaded collar from lowes look like and what section will it be in?
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#13
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LOL good point!!
It looks like a nut that is @ 1" thick. I found mine in the "specialty fastener" section on the nuts,bolts and nail isle. It was in the bins that look like tool drawers with little pictures on the front. I was just thinking, couldnt you make you own fastener with some thic wall tubing? Just tread it to the right size?? Thinking that if you used the same material, it might be easier to braze togather. Just a thought. God Bless Mike __________________ "I cherish the Hammer of Thor, but I praise the hand of God" |
#14
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My 2 cents worth...
The method I use is to silver solder three or four screws to the bottom of your butt cap. Drill matching holes in the handle and epoxie (J-B Weld) the butt cap onto the knife. (I also use a small bit and drill extra holes in the butt cap for the epoxie to grab onto.) Use a clamp to apply pressure and ensure a tight fit. When the handle is finished, the screws cannot be seen and the butt cap is unmarked by holes. (Of course, you can't remove it later.) This method (several screws in the butt cap) helps the butt cap to stay in place should any pressure be placed on the side of the butt cap, like when your buddy uses the end to hammer on something.
Thats my story and I'm sticking to it. Roger My Site |
#15
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Just got done doing this new method for the first time.. I usually do the threaded collar method for larger knives but I tried a different method this time..
I used n/s buttcap and drilled two 1/8" holes in it.. the holes were shallow but deep enough to insert a 1" length of brass rod in. I then soldered the brass rods in place. The brass rods have some relief ground into them for extra glue holding.. I then drilled 2 holes in the end of my handle to accept the two rods on the buttcap.. Glue and clamp... then grind flush. good luck.. |
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