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  #1  
Old 01-03-2017, 10:21 PM
gkyle840 gkyle840 is offline
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Cutting kydex sheath

I have made a sheath for a mini cleaver that is my current daily carry knife. I am looking for suggestions on how to cut the kydex so the sheath holds the knife securely but so I am also able to remove and re sheath it without the blade catching on the kydex. I have never made a sheath for a blade like this and my first attempt did not work due to the cutting edge catching on the kydex.
Here is a pic of the knife and kydex.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bxh...w?usp=drivesdk
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  #2  
Old 01-04-2017, 09:02 AM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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Take the sheath you have and put in your grommets or Chicago screws on the edge side only as you normally would. On the spine side put one grommet at the tip most corner and another about an inch higher. Cut away the rest of the spine side edge so that the knife can be tilted forward to remove it. You will probably want to flare the entry point on the sheath a little to make it easier to insert the blade. If the knife tends to fall out you'll need to add grommets until it doesn't ...


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  #3  
Old 01-04-2017, 09:44 AM
gkyle840 gkyle840 is offline
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are you thinking something similar to this Ray?
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bx...mFqdWZaZGZwVFk
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Old 01-04-2017, 10:17 AM
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Yes, although you will probably want the two grommets on the open side a little closer together. Depends on how springy your Kydex is. Maybe use a small clamp temporarily instead of the top grommet to test where the best position would be....


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Old 01-04-2017, 11:34 AM
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KNAdmin KNAdmin is offline
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One of these may help on creating your entry gap and retention points.
http://www.holstersmith.com/vcom/index.php?cPath=549


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  #6  
Old 01-04-2017, 12:55 PM
gkyle840 gkyle840 is offline
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Here is what I have so far. It holds the knife well but is pretty difficult to remove and put back. Im going to grind a bit off of the opening.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bxh...w?usp=drivesdk
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bxh...w?usp=drivesdk
I will check out the link you gave me . Thanks Alex!
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Old 01-04-2017, 01:49 PM
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Rather than grinding off any more of it (it looks good, BTW) take a hot air gun (paint stripper or a 1500w hair dryer) and loosen up the part that cover the handle and the part at the end of the blade near the single grommet, loosen just a little. Focus on lifting the knife up a little before tilting it forward to remove it...


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Last edited by Ray Rogers; 01-04-2017 at 01:52 PM.
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Old 01-04-2017, 02:57 PM
gkyle840 gkyle840 is offline
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Ok, I will do this. is there a good way to make sure I dont heat the areas I dont want to?
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Old 01-05-2017, 12:57 PM
WNC Goater WNC Goater is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gkyle840 View Post
Ok, I will do this. is there a good way to make sure I dont heat the areas I dont want to?
Take a small square of wood and cover the sheath, only exposing that edge you want to soften and flare out a little.


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Old 01-05-2017, 10:13 PM
gkyle840 gkyle840 is offline
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Ok, thanks. I am having trouble with my sheath scratching my knife. I tried blowing the sheath out with air and tried washing it with soap and water but the particles must be too imbedded. Are there any ways to ensure it doesnt have particles left from sanding it or do I have to do all of my sanding and buffing before I attach the eyelets?

Last edited by gkyle840; 01-05-2017 at 10:18 PM.
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Old 01-06-2017, 07:12 AM
WNC Goater WNC Goater is offline
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Blow it out the best you can, using compressed air if you have it. The filings and grindings will work out. Another thing is to put a couple or three layers of blue painters tape on the blade before moulding the kydex to the knife. This will allow a slight bit of clearance for the blade and help minimize scratching. I personally don't worry about a scratched blade for a knife I use knowing it is going to get scratched with use anyway, but I also don't polish blades (which will greatly show off the scratches) and I don't want a blade all scratched up that I plan to sell. Who wants to buy a scratched up knife?

I'm still trying to wrap my head around how plastic Kydex scratches hardened steel.


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Old 01-06-2017, 08:52 AM
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The first BIG thing is to not polish your blades, as Goater said. But, Kydex can put scratches on a blade polished or not. The best way I've found to avoid that is to assemble the sheath using Chicago screws instead of grommets. That way it's easy to take the sheath apart and clean it after you've finished grinding on it. Nothing else seems to be able to totally remove all the grit from inside the sheath....


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Old 01-06-2017, 01:00 PM
gkyle840 gkyle840 is offline
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I used compressed air ro blow the sheath out as well as soap and water after that and rinsed it with my hose so I had a lot of pressure going in it. It didnt get the edges though and there is a ton of debris in there from grinding it. I did put 1 later of tape on each side of the blade before molding the kydex but I will try more layers next time.
I would never polish a blade as it is hard enough putting a satin finish on it for me. I would use the chicago screws but I like to have a clip on the sheath for my belt. Are there any type of removable fasteners that have 1/4" holes?

Here is a pic of how scratched the knife gets from the sheath
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bxh...w?usp=drivesdk

Last edited by gkyle840; 01-06-2017 at 01:03 PM.
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  #14  
Old 01-06-2017, 01:34 PM
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There's nothing about Chicago screws that prevent you from having a belt clip.



Why do you need 1/4" holes? Chicago screws have 3/16 holes, could be some bigger but I never looked for them.

Man, that is some significant scratching. I also used compressed air, etc but nothing did the job until I switched to Chicago screws...


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Old 01-06-2017, 06:11 PM
jimmontg jimmontg is offline
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I never use kydex, I just use leather. LOL
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