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The Folding Knife Forum Materials, techniques and the designing of Folders.

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  #31  
Old 04-25-2011, 10:28 AM
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I'm drilling the 3/32" pivot holes in both liners at the same time.
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Last edited by Don Robinson; 04-27-2011 at 06:31 PM.
  #32  
Old 04-25-2011, 10:33 AM
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I've cut the blades apart and roughed out the tangs. Now it's time to begin fitting the backsprings to the blades.

I build every folder I make on a tooling plate like this. Just any flat, parallel piece of metal that's at least 3/16" thick.

Here I'm fitting the front end of the spring to the blade tang. I'm matching the angle with the blade lined up to the handle as I want it to be.
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File Type: jpg DSC02890.jpg (130.0 KB, 320 views)

Last edited by Don Robinson; 04-25-2011 at 10:36 AM.
  #33  
Old 04-25-2011, 10:41 AM
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The parts are all stacked up on the plate and clamped. I'm drilling the 3/32 spring pivot holes.

Not shown, in order not to lose the location when I removed this spring and blade and replaced them with the second blade and spring, I used additional clamps on the plate so that it wouldn't move while I substituted the other set.

Now the springs, center spacer and liners are all matched up and the spring pivots are established.
Can you see how important it is to use a tooling plate while fitting all the parts?

I never use a layout or the pattern to drill holes in individual parts. This way, they always match and fit together perfectly. And I never use a center punch!
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File Type: jpg DSC02891.jpg (144.7 KB, 232 views)

Last edited by Don Robinson; 05-01-2011 at 09:11 AM.
  #34  
Old 04-25-2011, 10:54 AM
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Now here is the first assembly. All the parts fit as intended.

Note that nothing on the outside profile has been profiled. I wait until the knife can be assembled with pins before doing anything to the outside profile.
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  #35  
Old 04-25-2011, 11:01 AM
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I'm using my rise and fall indicator fixture to do the fitting of the tangs to the springs so that the blade comes to the same position in all 3 positions on the indicator. I shoot for the 3 positions being within .005" before heat treat.

After heat treating and final finishing, I want them all within .002" at most.
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File Type: jpg DSC02894.jpg (126.2 KB, 233 views)
File Type: jpg DSC02893.jpg (123.4 KB, 221 views)
File Type: jpg DSC02895.jpg (130.6 KB, 228 views)
  #36  
Old 04-25-2011, 05:54 PM
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Don,
Just wanted to let you know I received the plans in the mail today, and WOW that was fast!
I'm gonna make sure to make copies tomorrow when I have access to a copier, and hopefully I can get started before too long. I already have some 3/32" 1095 and some ss liner material...


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  #37  
Old 04-25-2011, 07:48 PM
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Good deal, Andrew.
  #38  
Old 04-26-2011, 10:34 AM
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Don , I received my plans today ,but some unforseen things may cause me to put off starting for a while , but I will try to keep up with this build a long mentally for a while .

While I am waiting to be able to start are there any plans anywhere on building a rise and fall table . I may get a friend to make one for me . Also where do you get the dial guage and what exactly is it called ?

Thanks for doing this build a long . It`s great and full of info .

Larry
  #39  
Old 04-26-2011, 10:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GLDOYLE View Post
Don , I received my plans today ,but some unforseen things may cause me to put off starting for a while , but I will try to keep up with this build a long mentally for a while .

While I am waiting to be able to start are there any plans anywhere on building a rise and fall table . I may get a friend to make one for me . Also where do you get the dial guage and what exactly is it called ?

Thanks for doing this build a long . It`s great and full of info .

Larry
No design that I know of. I used a 1" travel dial indicator from Harbor Freight on mine.
  #40  
Old 04-27-2011, 06:09 PM
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Setting the spring tension:

Place both liners, one blade and its matching backspring on the plate like this and mark a line underneath the spring as shown.

I've exaggerated the amount of rise in these scenes so you can see better what I'm doing.

With the plate mounted on the mill or drill press, raise the back end of the spring upward about 1/16" or a little less. Clamp the spring and drill a 3/32" hole thru everything, including the plate.

Remove the spring and repeat the steps above for the second spring.

Do not move the setup between springs.
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File Type: jpg DSC02896.jpg (125.6 KB, 260 views)
File Type: jpg DSC02898.jpg (136.3 KB, 250 views)
File Type: jpg 5.jpg (127.6 KB, 241 views)

Last edited by Don Robinson; 04-27-2011 at 06:15 PM.
  #41  
Old 04-27-2011, 06:26 PM
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I use extra long pins with a point on them to assemble the knife. I place the blade pivot pin and the rear pin thru the assembly, then drive a pointed pin thru the assembly at the spring pivot.

I torque the pin with my fingers as I tap it in to get the point started thru the stack.

In these scenes I've done some rough contouring all around the handle.

In order to prevent bending the soft springs, assemble the knife with the blades open and profile the back, end, and underneath of the handle.

Next I remove a pin, turn the blades to the closed position, and drive the pin in again in order to profile the front end of the handle.

Don't close or open the blades now. Remove the pin before moving the blade.
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File Type: jpg DSC02910.jpg (75.5 KB, 231 views)
File Type: jpg DSC02911.jpg (113.7 KB, 218 views)

Last edited by Don Robinson; 04-27-2011 at 06:28 PM.
  #42  
Old 05-01-2011, 03:34 PM
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There are many ways to make the thumb nicks.

This is the way I do it.
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  #43  
Old 05-01-2011, 03:37 PM
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And now it's time to heat treat the blades and springs. All my knives are double tempered and cryo treated.

I use these two heavy steel plates to plate quench. The heavy plates always keep the blades and springs straight and quench in a matter of seconds.
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File Type: jpg DSC02913.jpg (132.6 KB, 185 views)
File Type: jpg DSC02915.jpg (132.3 KB, 180 views)
  #44  
Old 05-01-2011, 03:42 PM
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I forgot to take a photo of using my mill and rotary table to mill a .005" relief around the pivot.

The relief keeps the liners from scratching the blade as it opens and closes.
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File Type: jpg DSC02916.jpg (83.1 KB, 212 views)
  #45  
Old 05-01-2011, 03:44 PM
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It's time for the furniture.

These are the front and rear bolsters made of 416 steel.
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