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The Folding Knife Forum Materials, techniques and the designing of Folders.

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  #1  
Old 04-20-2011, 03:32 PM
Don Robinson's Avatar
Don Robinson Don Robinson is offline
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Smile Let's make a 2 blade trapper together right here.

I've sold my last 2 blade trapper, so I want to build another.

You're invited to build one for yourself by following along with this thread.

First, I'm inviting you to send me via Paypal just $5.00 to cover the cost of mailing the design to you via Priority mail. The $5.00 just covers the cost of mailing a flat rate envelope to you if you're in the U.S. You'll probably receive the design within 3 days of mailing.

Click on this link for the design.


http://home.earthlink.net/~donwrobin...lies/id11.html



If you're outside the U.S. I'll send it at actual cost.

Everybody and anybody is invited. Even those who make great folders on your own. We can use your expertise as we progress.

Last edited by Don Robinson; 04-20-2011 at 05:06 PM.
  #2  
Old 04-20-2011, 03:36 PM
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Here's the design we'll use unless you want to use your own.
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  #3  
Old 04-20-2011, 03:46 PM
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And here's my start. All the pieces except the bolsters have been sawed out.

Two blades, two liners, one brass spacer, two back springs.

I'm using 3/32" thick 154CM for the blades and backsprings, .030" brass for the spacer. The liners are made of 0.040 thick 410 stainless.

Whatever steel you use, the blades and backsprings must be the same thickness.

I'll keep posting photos and instructions as I go. I'm here to teach you to make this folder for yourself.

Please ask any questions you have as we go within this thread. We all learn together from questions.

This is a cooperative effort, so please post photos of your work as we go. That's the only way I have of helping you with most problems.

I don't advise you to try this unless you've at least made a few fixed blade knives.
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Last edited by Don Robinson; 04-20-2011 at 06:18 PM.
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Old 04-20-2011, 03:54 PM
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Don Robinson Don Robinson is offline
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So let's go!

Need advise on materials, suppliers, etc.? Ask away.

Now's the time to order the design. You don't want to get too far behind, although if you do don't worry about it. I'll leave this thread up forever. And I'll answer questions about any part of it any time.
  #5  
Old 04-20-2011, 04:51 PM
kcorn kcorn is offline
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I'm in!!

Hey Don! Kent Cornelius here. I have been anxiously waiting another build on here. I am very interested so count me in. I have built numerous fixed blades and have been tinkering with my first slipjoint. How do I send you the $5.00 for the plans? Thanks for all you do for the knife making community out there!
  #6  
Old 04-20-2011, 05:07 PM
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Don Robinson Don Robinson is offline
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Click on this link.


http://home.earthlink.net/~donwrobin...lies/id11.html



Don't use the shopping cart. Just send the $5 by Paypal to my email address.

donwrobinson@earthlink.net

Last edited by Don Robinson; 04-23-2011 at 09:11 AM.
  #7  
Old 04-20-2011, 07:44 PM
Craigb Craigb is offline
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Looks like this will be a fun one to follow.

Craig
  #8  
Old 04-21-2011, 10:10 AM
Kostoglotov Kostoglotov is offline
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What tools are required for the build?
  #9  
Old 04-21-2011, 10:38 AM
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The basic tools are:

Belt grinder

Drill press

Drills and reamers

Band saw
  #10  
Old 04-21-2011, 12:03 PM
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Ive milled away the excess stock on the blades and carefully deburred the opposite side from the patterns.

You must deburr after each machining operation in order to have accurate perpendicular holes.

In case you're wondering I'm preparing to mill the blade flats. I don't rough grind the flats.

If you don't have a milling machine, you'll want to go ahead and grind your flats.

I suggest you keep the two blades together like I have so that one functions as a handle while you grind the other.
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File Type: jpg DSC02871.jpg (68.7 KB, 335 views)
File Type: jpg DSC02872.jpg (40.6 KB, 294 views)
  #11  
Old 04-21-2011, 12:12 PM
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After deburring, I drilled the two pivot holes with a #41 (.096) drill.

I'll use a 3/32 (.094) pivot pin. It will have approx. .002" clearance in the hole to prevent swelling when I peen the pin from binding up the blade.
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File Type: jpg DSC02873.jpg (42.7 KB, 189 views)
File Type: jpg DSC02874.jpg (49.1 KB, 193 views)
  #12  
Old 04-21-2011, 12:16 PM
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Don Robinson Don Robinson is offline
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Preparing to mill the blade flats.

The blades are mounted on the plate using a 1/4" cap screw. The other end will be held in place with a milling clamp.

Note that I've lined up the cutting edge of the blade on the left parallel to the plate.
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File Type: jpg DSC02875.jpg (151.1 KB, 312 views)
File Type: jpg DSC02876.jpg (65.7 KB, 276 views)
  #13  
Old 04-22-2011, 12:41 PM
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Making the setup for milling the flats.

I've calculated that I need to remove 0.033" per side from the blade in order to leave a cutting edge 0.030" thick.

The tilting table is set at approx. 5 degrees with the highest part toward me. I'll make a trial cut 1/2 of the amount I want to remove and see if it cuts 1/2 the distance to the desired runout toward the spine.

I had to readjust the tilt twice in order to get the trial cut 1/2 the distance toward the spine I want.

Now I just mill the flat, adjust the table upward the total amount I want, and make a finish cut.

This end mill has approx. .030" radii on the 4 corners, so it leaves a nice radius at the plunge shoulder. We don't want any sharp corners on the blades during heat treat to avoid stress cracks.
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File Type: jpg DSC02877.jpg (180.9 KB, 341 views)

Last edited by Don Robinson; 04-22-2011 at 12:51 PM.
  #14  
Old 04-22-2011, 12:53 PM
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The first flat is milled.
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  #15  
Old 04-22-2011, 12:55 PM
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The first blade flat is finished.
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Last edited by Don Robinson; 04-22-2011 at 12:58 PM.
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