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The Folding Knife Forum Materials, techniques and the designing of Folders.

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  #46  
Old 04-28-2009, 05:01 PM
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Don Robinson Don Robinson is offline
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While we're waiting to get started, go to the sticky at the top of this forum and set your drill press table or milling machine spindle square to the table.

It's very important to keep the pivot pin square to both liners to prevent having the blade mounted crooked in the handle.

You wouldn't like that.

Always remember that the last vertical movement of the table should be upward in order to have the collar or screw support the table weight.
  #47  
Old 04-29-2009, 06:01 PM
lpspurgeon lpspurgeon is offline
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Don cut a 3/16" cut in the bolster jig and bought the 1/4" tap and bolt today. Wont matter if there is a 1/4" weight reduction cut on the other end will it


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  #48  
Old 04-29-2009, 08:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lpspurgeon
Don cut a 3/16" cut in the bolster jig and bought the 1/4" tap and bolt today. Wont matter if there is a 1/4" weight reduction cut on the other end will it
Nope, when you do something like that and someone asks, you tell them "That's a witness mark".

That's an old old, machinist's way of explaining a mistake. It derives from showing the boss you didn't remove too much metal. You leave it so that the original surface just barely shows somewhere. That way if it comes out too small they can't blame it on you.

Last edited by Don Robinson; 05-23-2009 at 08:04 PM.
  #49  
Old 04-29-2009, 08:42 PM
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By the way, when you stack both liners together in the aid, they should total less than 1/8" thick together, so I'd have made a thinner cut than 3/16". It will probably work, though. Don't worry about it now.
  #50  
Old 04-29-2009, 08:49 PM
lpspurgeon lpspurgeon is offline
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lol DOH


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  #51  
Old 04-30-2009, 08:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lpspurgeon
lol DOH
For every failure,man will learn another truth

How many so far?
  #52  
Old 04-30-2009, 08:51 AM
beebee58 beebee58 is offline
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Great Thought.............. I'll use my file guide................ LOL



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  #53  
Old 04-30-2009, 09:19 AM
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Don is it easier or preferred to spot weld bolsters over machning. Everytime I machine 416 ss it bow's does this not happen with spot welds?
  #54  
Old 04-30-2009, 09:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 22H2
Don is it easier or preferred to spot weld bolsters over machning. Everytime I machine 416 ss it bow's does this not happen with spot welds?
Spot welding usually doesn't cause warping. Machining always causes warping. I just straighten them. Even though the liners may be slightly bowed, they will straighten out when the pins are installed. I machined the set in the pictures above and you can see they are parallel after I straightened them.

I machine some of mine if I have the material that's thick enough, but it wastes material. costs more money.

Spot welding allows the use of cheaper materials, but you run the risk of having a spot weld or edge show. That can usually be avoided. I bought a Harbor Freight spot welder on sale for around $100.00 a few years ago just because I wanted to try it on folders.
  #55  
Old 04-30-2009, 09:46 AM
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I hate silver soldering bolsters to liners. I'm a gold/silversmith, so you know I can do it, but I hate having flux seep out of the joint between a bolster and liner, so I just don't do it.

Even when I apply bolsters to a fixed blade knife, I peen the pins and use epoxy inside the joint to keep water out. Simple, effective, and no worries about flux seepage or water/rust damage.

I do admire a well done silver solder job with a nice uniform bead done by others, though.
  #56  
Old 04-30-2009, 01:58 PM
kmab kmab is offline
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Count me in

I'm a newbie and this sounds like a great oppurtunity to learn right off the bat.
I'll send the $3.50

Thanks!
Michael Blessing
  #57  
Old 04-30-2009, 02:44 PM
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Thanks for joining us, Michael.

Tomorrow is the cutoff date, so if anyone else wants to join us, its time to commit.
  #58  
Old 04-30-2009, 03:24 PM
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I should have posted this in the beginning.

I can't teach anyone how to grind a blade here. That takes hours of hands-on practice before you can be successful.

Anyone participating here should already have the experience and tools to grind the flats on a blade. The normal progression is from fixed blade knives to folders.

That said, I had a man came into my shop a few years ago and he asked if I'd teach him to make a folder. I asked him if he had ever made a knife before, and he said no.

I helped him with all aspects of course, but he was a great student and his first folder was very well done. He went from there to automatics, then engraving.

Last edited by Don Robinson; 04-30-2009 at 05:22 PM.
  #59  
Old 04-30-2009, 04:01 PM
22H2 22H2 is offline
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Don is your spot welder 115v or 220v?
  #60  
Old 04-30-2009, 05:11 PM
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Don

I got my plans in the mail today! I will make a few copies and start cutting.

Thanks Joe


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