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The Folding Knife Forum Materials, techniques and the designing of Folders.

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  #16  
Old 03-06-2007, 08:21 AM
rebglass rebglass is offline
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a blue rouge made for plastics
Bill[/QUOTE]
Source for blue rouge, or brand name?
Thanks
Reb
  #17  
Old 03-06-2007, 09:03 AM
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Don Robinson Don Robinson is offline
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Talking Good thread!

This is turning into a very informative thread.

Thanks, Tracy, Frank, and Bill. It's great to hear from you. And learn!
  #18  
Old 03-06-2007, 10:08 AM
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Bill Vining Bill Vining is offline
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I beleive I got the blue rouge at Caswell Plating. They have a nice range of polishing and buffing supplies.
http://www.caswellplating.com/

Bill


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  #19  
Old 03-06-2007, 07:54 PM
jim graham jim graham is offline
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Don, Tracy and others, Thanks for the good advice on Ivory. These post are sure going to help me and probably save me distoring my scales. I learn so much on the forum and have little contact with other knife makers outside of the forum.

Thanks JIm
  #20  
Old 03-06-2007, 07:56 PM
Frank Niro Frank Niro is offline
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The Min Wax oprosessing I use does not hurt the finish but does help to make it more stable. I use that green polish K&G sells as their special compound. It works super on ivory, pearl and other shells. I do finish the ivory and bolsters down to 600 by hand before polishing. Frank


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  #21  
Old 03-07-2007, 01:49 PM
Jonathan Jonathan is offline
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I have a few questions along the same line on fitting the mammoth to the bolsters.
When profiling the top of the bolsters to fit the curvature of the mammoth it sometimes causes the bolster to be quite thin on top and does not look real good. The slightest mistake here and your project can go South on you real quick!
I really would like some advice on how you handle the job of matching the top of the bolster with the mammoth. Also how is the bolster profiled from that point out to conform with the shape of junction of the bolster to the mammoth?
It is also tricky to get the mammoth to butt up without any gaps to the bolster. I can get it close, but would like to improve in this area.
On your folder do most generally place the thickest part of the mammoth to the top to reduce the amount of dressing done your bolster?
Tips on picking out mammoth to fit a folder are appreciated.
I would appreciate any information in this area.
This could be a video by itself!
Thanks,
Jon
  #22  
Old 03-07-2007, 03:23 PM
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Bill Vining Bill Vining is offline
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This is what I look for when selecting ivory:

1. How deep is the color? How much can I sand off the top when shaping before I lose all the color that attracted me these mammoth pieces to begin with?

2. Is the piece symetrical? Can I evenly grind that back of the ivory down to the desired thickness and still keep the piece evenly sized throughout the entire length?

3. How convexed (if at all) is the top of the piece? When I grind this piece down to the desired thickness, how thick will the edges be?

The answers to these questions will determine if I want to buy the piece or not. Sometimes I will buy a piece that is mis-shapen or not as symetrical as I would like but has fabulous colors and I just can't resist buying it. In these cases, extra care is taken when deterrmining how to fit them to your knife.

Getting the ivory to butt up against the bolster is fairly easy with the right tools. I have a KMG with a flat ceramic platen so it is easy to get both the bolster and the ivory nice and square.

Another thing to consider:
Some makers do not match the height of the ivory with the height of the bolster. They finish the ivory so that the scales are a bit higher than the bolster. If done correctly, it actually looks quite nice.

If you want to match the height of both the ivory and the bolster, work the ivory to the desired height and grind or file your bolsters to match the ivory. When done, this will require minimal removal of the ivory when finish sanding.

Hope this helps.

Bill


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  #23  
Old 03-07-2007, 04:16 PM
Jonathan Jonathan is offline
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Bill, thanks for those good tips. Looking at your web site I see we have something else in common. I keep the Cohiba Robusto, Monte No 2 and good single malt in stock at all times!

Jon
  #24  
Old 03-07-2007, 04:42 PM
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Nothing like a good cigar!

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  #25  
Old 03-07-2007, 08:41 PM
jim graham jim graham is offline
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Jonathan, Your 100% right, I would just add a good maduro Padron. I don't know where your at in Fa.; But I've sure enjoyed my share at a cigar stor in coco Beach.
  #26  
Old 03-07-2007, 09:17 PM
Jonathan Jonathan is offline
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Jim
I agree on the maduro Padron. One of the real pleasures in a mans live is having a great cigar and drink while relaxing!
I am in Longwood, which is just north a few miles of Orlando. Coco is a 45 minute drive, but I usually go to New Symrna Beach. Do you know the name of the place over in Coco?

Jon
  #27  
Old 03-08-2007, 02:50 AM
ddushane ddushane is offline
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If your ivory is thick, use a rip fence on your bandsaw and take the bulk off the back side & use it on a small folder, Then take some of the blue masking tape & put it on the bark side of the ivory, squirt some hot glue on your magnetic chuck & while hot & workable put your ivory bark & tape side down doing your best to get the inside or top side as level as you can, let it set up. Like someone said earlier use good sharp belts, I use 36 grit, and start taking it down to your desired thickness. When down pretty close to the thickness you want, put on a sharp 100 grit belt and go down just enough to take your 36 grit marks out and you're done. I do this all the time and get great results. If the dome or curve of your bark side leans more to one side than the other make adjustments while hot glue is still workable to make up for it. Using the surfacing machine works great for me. One wood and micarta that I have to cut down I use double sided tape instead of hot glue, Also double sided tape for titanium on the surfacing machine. Works like a charm. Dwayne


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  #28  
Old 03-08-2007, 04:21 AM
Frank Niro Frank Niro is offline
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I have a simple approach to fitting ivory. It does however, require a little previous background experience.I shape the front bolster to what I want with a 60 grit belt attatched to the liner. I then go over this with a 120. Now for the ivory. I like shape in my handles and do not make them flat. There are many that do and end up with beautiful looking folders. With the sized curved bolster I can now reduce the back side of the ivory to where it's height where it contacts the front bolster is just a bit above. You could remove material so that the ivory is a bit higher at the back, make it less at the back, or just keep it level. I then get the bottom very level by sanding on a granite block with 120 grit sandpaper sheet over top. The bolster end is the either dovetail fitted or with arcs. The inside of the asrcs I do with a router in a router table with a speed conrol that has a sanding drum installed and that is used after I remove what I can with a 60grit belt The drum sizes I use are 60 and 220 grit. I final fit these with the use of inletting black I make from an artists sketching charcoal pencil that I scrape , not crush, and then add oil to. By holding the ivory to the scale and in proper contact with the bolster, and placing it upside down on a plate with a window in it I can now drill the screw holes which once off the scale will be opened for screw clearance and coutersunk for the screw heads.
Once attatched I trace an outline remove and grind down to the line with a 120 belt.I the reattatch go around with the 120 to size to the liner. I then finish shaping the top of the ivory first with a 120, and 400 belts .This also includes the bolsters After that I hand sand these down to 800 .I assemble the liners, bolsters,the scales with the back spacer installed . I then sand the out side of this assembly on the belt grinder again with the 120 and then a 400 belt. The scales with the bolsters attatched are then polished but do not attempt to polish the bolsters at the same time. To see one of my folders with bolsters front and rear and ivory scales go to Ebay number 280089952698 Just my way. Frank


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  #29  
Old 03-08-2007, 09:45 AM
Jonathan Jonathan is offline
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Great, great information from more of the experts! Thanks Dwayne and Frank!
BTW, I highly recommend Dwayne's video on how to do Knife File Work for anyone wanting to learn.
I just viewed it last week and it as to be one of the best instructional videos available. I also e-mailed him with some questions, which he promptly answer. A very nice guy.

Last edited by Don Robinson; 03-09-2007 at 09:24 AM. Reason: Edited by mistake.
  #30  
Old 03-08-2007, 10:19 AM
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Don Robinson Don Robinson is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ddushane
If your ivory is thick, use a rip fence on your bandsaw and take the bulk off the back side & use it on a small folder, Then take some of the blue masking tape & put it on the bark side of the ivory, squirt some hot glue on your magnetic chuck & while hot & workable put your ivory bark & tape side down doing your best to get the inside or top side as level as you can, let it set up. Like someone said earlier use good sharp belts, I use 36 grit, and start taking it down to your desired thickness. When down pretty close to the thickness you want, put on a sharp 100 grit belt and go down just enough to take your 36 grit marks out and you're done. I do this all the time and get great results. If the dome or curve of your bark side leans more to one side than the other make adjustments while hot glue is still workable to make up for it. Using the surfacing machine works great for me. One wood and micarta that I have to cut down I use double sided tape instead of hot glue, Also double sided tape for titanium on the surfacing machine. Works like a charm. Dwayne
Hi there, Dwayne. Nice to have you here.

Sounds like you're using a surface grinder converted to belt to thin your scales. I surface grind lots of my scales. wood, synthetics, everything, but using a 46 grit SC Norton wheel. Builds up heat a lot faster than a belt.

Man, we've really got some experts contributing now! Thanks, Dwayne.
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