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  #46  
Old 04-05-2005, 03:35 PM
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McAhron McAhron is offline
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The movie was 76 trombones? Four inches it will be! Maybe i will go to the flea market and see if i can find some celluloid for a handle or maybe stick with some stabilized redwood,decisions decisions.

Thanks for starting this. Im already having fun!


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  #47  
Old 04-05-2005, 03:44 PM
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Shakudo Shakudo is offline
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the movie was "the music man" early 60's i think.
  #48  
Old 04-05-2005, 05:43 PM
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Don Robinson Don Robinson is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GHNorfleet
I am going to use some of the materials I have here in the shop. I am thinking of using ATS-34 for the blade and backspring and try to integrate the brass for the locking mechanism. Also I think I will use nickel silver for the bolsters and then either some Carbon Fiber or Stag for the scales although I do have some great looking curly maple that would probably work more easily and look great too. Gotta go and get to work.

Gil
Gil, are you thinking of using brass for the liners and lock spring? If so, titanium will work and last much better. A brass lock spring will bend and weaken. Ti is a strong metal, and a natural spring. Heat treatable stainless also works, but causes more work.
It must be heat treated to use as a lock spring.

I like nickel silver. Easy to work, and takes a beautiful polish.
  #49  
Old 04-05-2005, 05:47 PM
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Don Robinson Don Robinson is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shakudo
the movie was "the music man" early 60's i think.
Right on, Shakudo, but I think it came out in the fifties. :confused: :confused: I'm too old to remember.

Nice try, McAhron, but no cigar for that one.
  #50  
Old 04-05-2005, 06:01 PM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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You're both right: There was a version of Music man made in 1962 and another in 1948


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  #51  
Old 04-05-2005, 08:12 PM
DaveL DaveL is offline
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Don't know exactly how to get it done, Don, but count me in too. Dave
  #52  
Old 04-05-2005, 08:43 PM
Frank Niro Frank Niro is offline
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Hello all
I am getting my choices of material together for my "go along" Like Don I will use Damascus and either pearl or mammoth ivory. I will probably use Eggerling Damadscus for blade and bolsters. It is a very beautiful Danascus and is easy to heat treat, work, etch and color. Frank


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  #53  
Old 04-05-2005, 10:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray Rogers
You're both right: There was a version of Music man made in 1962 and another in 1948
And now we know. Thanks, Ray.
  #54  
Old 04-05-2005, 10:16 PM
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Good, Dave. Welcome.
  #55  
Old 04-05-2005, 10:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank Niro
Hello all
I am getting my choices of material together for my "go along" Like Don I will use Damascus and either pearl or mammoth ivory. I will probably use Eggerling Damadscus for blade and bolsters. It is a very beautiful Danascus and is easy to heat treat, work, etch and color. Frank
I tried to find the Eggerling, but didn't. I may need your help with the etch, Frank.

I may also try heat coloring the bolsters and back spacer in my electric furnace. I assume that will work??? :confused:
  #56  
Old 04-06-2005, 03:14 AM
Frank Niro Frank Niro is offline
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Hi Don.
Robert Eggerlings phone no. I believe is 610-682-6836 I bought his Damascus from someone else who just happened to have it for sale. I understand he is a well respected, reliable, friendly person. If you call him let me know the outcome I want to go that way myself after I use what I have on hand. Don, the etching is simple. I finish my blades and bolsters down to 600 grit by hand using Mobil 1 motor oil on the blade which does a great job of keeping the finish even. To etch I lay the bolsters flat in a plastic dish and for the blade I suspend it in a tall pickle jar using a stainless wire. I use a solution of about 30% ferric chloride with distilled water and leave them for about twenty minutes. You can use this solution over and over and get great results every time. Of course it works great on other carbon steel Damascus.The time you may want to change for what you preffer in an etch. You can start with less time and add. I was once told that if you can feel the etch with a finger nail it will usually be sufficient. They are then washed and buffed clean for coloring.A furnace may be far too much and you will never catch the colors which are gold, brownish puprple, purple, blue and then silver in that order. If you overdo it, you can buff the color off and start again. I place the bolsters or blade that are extremly well cleaned, on a piece of thin stainless that is .050 thick and has a handle like a spatula,on an electric kitchen top element with the heat turned up to about 90% .In the case of a blade when I see it is just starting to become gold color I turn it over using tweezers. There is a little learning curve on the blades. You will find that if you allow the heat to evenly cover from under the plate, of course, the full lenghth of the blade, the heaviest ricasso area will color first. the tip end is off of the plate and therefore isn't receiving the same amount of heat. It is necessary to place your spatula so that for a while the ground end has heat while the other end gets only a little.
So I hope this helps some or ask for more. I believe that if you try the Thunderforge you will find it difficult to harden properly, and that it warps easily, as well as the fact that if colored it does not give good clear colors but tends to blur. Pleased to write this out for you and all others interested. Frank


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  #57  
Old 04-06-2005, 11:14 AM
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DaWulf DaWulf is offline
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The 1962 version of 'The Music Man' starring Robert Preston, Shirley Jones, Buddy Hackket and a myriad of others is by far the most popular. Most people aren't even aware that a '48 version was ever produced. The antagonist in the '62 movie, who eventually blows the whistle on Robert Preston, just happens to be an anvil salesman by the way. Heheh

Okay Don, you said you had a set of plans for a barlow available. How do I partake of those. IE, get your money to you, get the plans from you, so on??

Wulf
  #58  
Old 04-06-2005, 11:20 AM
DaveL DaveL is offline
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Gulp, I know I posted but don't see it. So count Dave in, Don
  #59  
Old 04-06-2005, 01:14 PM
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Don Robinson Don Robinson is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank Niro
Hi Don.
Robert Eggerlings phone no. I believe is 610-682-6836 I bought his Damascus from someone else who just happened to have it for sale. I understand he is a well respected, reliable, friendly person. If you call him let me know the outcome I want to go that way myself after I use what I have on hand. Don, the etching is simple. I finish my blades and bolsters down to 600 grit by hand using Mobil 1 motor oil on the blade which does a great job of keeping the finish even. To etch I lay the bolsters flat in a plastic dish and for the blade I suspend it in a tall pickle jar using a stainless wire. I use a solution of about 30% ferric chloride with distilled water and leave them for about twenty minutes. You can use this solution over and over and get great results every time. Of course it works great on other carbon steel Damascus.The time you may want to change for what you preffer in an etch. You can start with less time and add. I was once told that if you can feel the etch with a finger nail it will usually be sufficient. They are then washed and buffed clean for coloring.A furnace may be far too much and you will never catch the colors which are gold, brownish puprple, purple, blue and then silver in that order. If you overdo it, you can buff the color off and start again. I place the bolsters or blade that are extremly well cleaned, on a piece of thin stainless that is .050 thick and has a handle like a spatula,on an electric kitchen top element with the heat turned up to about 90% .In the case of a blade when I see it is just starting to become gold color I turn it over using tweezers. There is a little learning curve on the blades. You will find that if you allow the heat to evenly cover from under the plate, of course, the full lenghth of the blade, the heaviest ricasso area will color first. the tip end is off of the plate and therefore isn't receiving the same amount of heat. It is necessary to place your spatula so that for a while the ground end has heat while the other end gets only a little.
So I hope this helps some or ask for more. I believe that if you try the Thunderforge you will find it difficult to harden properly, and that it warps easily, as well as the fact that if colored it does not give good clear colors but tends to blur. Pleased to write this out for you and all others interested. Frank
Thanks a bunch for that, Frank. I never would have thought about using my best friend's kitchen stove for that. I've printed this out and will file it away somewhere where I can't find it again.
  #60  
Old 04-06-2005, 01:18 PM
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Don Robinson Don Robinson is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveL
Gulp, I know I posted but don't see it. So count Dave in, Don
You're already in, Dave. Your first post was no. 51.
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