First Question: Soldering?

[Charles Vestal]

Thanks Steve, I will be trying this procedure out soon.

Take care
Charles

[michaellovett]

lastly, after what Steve has just described doing, I like to put a drop or two of FP-10 in the joint and let it hang on the shop wall over night. This seems so far to sound the final death Nell on the flux out gassing.

Before putting on the scales, brush in a bit of fast orange to kill the oil. I then rub it down with a little alcohol. , and soak the back of the joint with the alcohol for a few minutes, then blow out the joint with air.
So far, by doing this I haven't had any problems with the oil leaching out of the joint into the handle materials.

Mike

[Steve]

Right, Mike. I forgot to mention the FP-10. I'm trying just washing the blade/guard in the ultrasonic cleaner before soldering, bypassing the washing with acetone and Fast Orange. It seems to work very well, really gets things clean. Wash in ultrasonic cleaner and then place in distilled water for a few min and then blow it dry inside and outside the guard with compressed air. The solder seems to flow quite nicely. At least it's working so far, on ECCKS knives, of which I've done 4-5.

[michaellovett]

Sounds good! I may have to get a second machine and try that out!

Mike

[Bill Vining]

Hi Folks-
Steve pointed me to this thread and I have to say there is quite a bit of information here. Thanks to all the contributors.

I would love to get a hold of a bottle of the Eutectic #682 Flux. Would anyone happen to have a spare bottle they would like to sell?

Thanks.....
Bill

[CWKnifeman]

One other thing that I mightadd because I have been doing it this way for years and that is this. I make quite a few bird N trout with damascus bolsters on them and I dont want to have pin showing so I use hidden souldered pins. I do this as I have for years by souldering the bolsters/guards prior to actually placing them onto the blade. One you use less soulder, second you don't have as much of a problem with overflow of excess soulder, and three clean up isreally simple with a brass rod gut for a graver. I will probably try the FP-10, and the Fast Orange. But If you soulder the bolsters first then redrill the holes to clear out any excess, place the pins into the pre drilled holes and putting the bolsters on the pins yousimply heat up to tempature and clamp with heavy pliers until cured. Smooth tiped vice grips will work as well and while it is curring you have time to do your cleanup. This is just the way that I have Fould that works for me.
Curtis Wilson

[cliff fendley]

Steve, Do you think the Pop's solder has a higher melting point than the 157? I got some from Pop's and it seems like before I can get the solder to flow the flux is trying to burn. Then it doesnt go into the joint unless I add a few drops of new flux and get things bubbling.

The 157 just will just melt and suck in the joint about the time the flux turns back to liquid. Thanks for the pointer on that because thats what I look for now.

The Pop's solder does seem like its a little easier to clean up.

I'm still using the large diameter 157 sample I got and flattening the big wire with a brass hammer so that I can apply it down in the joint. That stuff is amazing.

Gil loves this stuff too, I think he and I are just going to buy a roll of 157 and divide it up.

[Steve]

They both seem the same to me, but we might be handling them differently, in some way. Go with what works for you. A roll of 157 will last you many years. If you do buy a roll, maybe you can report on obtaining it and the cost?

[cliff fendley]

Do you have any idea where to get it Steve? I thought about calling the fellow you got the flux from to see.

The salesman that I had here locally is no longer with Eutectic.

[Steve]

Sure, call him. I'll bet he can help you. Let me know, if you don't mind.